Sir alex1878 . . . . .
I would just like to know WHO dropped / stepped on that board ?
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It certainly didn't get in that shape, just sitting in the cabinet.
Indeed, that crack across the circuit board is being just to the side of the:
AMERIKANSKI's say .. flyback transformer.
(Mamma mia . ..you'a touch'a its'a RED wire and you FLYBACK ! )
Or how you clazee EURO's . . . say . . . . . . . LOPT ( Line output transformer)
And while I am on a roll on some daffy-nitions . . .
Also . . .a kinescope . . .is a . . . CRT (cathode ray tube) . . .is a . . . picture tube.
PROCEDURALS:
Since you already have the chassis cleaned, use a solvent to additionally clean 1/2 in to either side of the length of the exposed crack on both sides of the phenolic circuit board .
Next grasp CLOSE IN on the crack with both hands and VERY (to the power of ten) slowly, micro flex the board crack to let the end flex back and let that very ends slanted fracture overlap again.
( It's currently being cross lapped and thereby being latched apart from surfaces mating flush)
On that rarely created / slanted cracked end, you will have a bit of raw phenolic board exposed, which will give a broader exposed board, whereas, further in towards the center of the board the rest of the board is just having the minimal area of a right angle crack of the board.
Get yourself a small tube of some conventional thin,water clear SUPER glue . . .none of the gels or other variants.
Plan how you can clamp the end of the broken board together. My choice would be either a small"C" clamp or one of the strong little paper clamps.
CLAMPING OPTIONS:
Rotate the chassis to place the crack at top, take a deep breath and apply guper slue . . . oooops . . . . . . . my LYS-DEXIA is kicking in again .
The slanted overlap should be a breeze and then just enough glue for capillary action to suck it in on the closed crack down the board to the cracks very end..
IMMEDIATELY clamp the boards very end and let set overnight to assure a rock hard cured setting of the mechanical aspect of the repair..
REPAIR PARTS ASSEMBLAGE:
.Also some jewelers screwdrivers with a standard blade tip, just seem to never get used in one of the dollar kits from a Dollar store.
Its pristine blade end makes an excellent resist scraper of the foil, for either side of a break.
Place its blade tip out about a 1/4 inch from a break line, press into the board at an angle and then draw the blade TOWARDS the crack, repeat for the other side.
Get all of your breaks prepped and then degrease again and initially solder tin across the breaks;
which added wet rosin flux will certainly expedite, and get better solder wetting /adhesion..
PCB EVALUATION . . . . . .by cracky . . . .:
Next day scrape away/clean any super glue and then overflow a solder bridging of what looks to be about 15 separate foil breaks.
Reconnect connector plugs that go to the board and save the RED ultor lead installation until last.
Find the ultors recessed cavity on the CRT and run a "shorting" wire from one of the the corner metal frame mount(s) over to that ultor cavity for 5 times to see if it had a final weak spark stored away.
(Five times . . . . .because it will keep slightly bouncing back to life . . . . . .weakly.)
Then, you are finally safe to reinstall that ultor lead into its cavity.
In the future, use that same procedure, if you have to remove that lead, but then, you will be having to inch your wire end UNDER the edge of that giant suction cup, that is now blocking connector access..
Any mo' questions ? . . . . .one mo' answer . . . .you say:
Could the crack and bend have been enough to cause picture loss?
I don't see how you got "anything" with its board in that shape . . . .except with an initial shot of high voltage at TURN on that might have caused that weak CRT electroluminescent / illumination,, but for sure, the CRT filament would have not had warm up time, IF it ever was capable of being generated/present.
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Disregard . . . .I just read back and now I know . . . .QUITE a drop !
I hope that it didn't land straight down on its face and additionally warp the faces internal shadow mask . . . . .with a resultant . . . .permanent distortion of select color reproduction areas.
BUT in the manner of the cracks position and the downward flexure of the PCB mass, from its heavier mounted parts weights, I think that it hit with its very TOP impacting into the floor.
73's de Edd