We changed the master code by unplugging the system, plugging in hitting * # and following the instructions to reset. The keypad confirmed the new code. Then it reset to the AWAY state. We then entered CODE+1 to turn off and it did not disarm it. We tried going to AWAY or TEST or anything else and it didn't do anything.
Okay, just to check: When you "followed the instructions to reset the Master Code", you changed it in
programming field *01, right?
After powering up and hitting *# simultaneously, the panel comes up in Panel Programming Mode, and the 1st programming field that comes up ready to be programmed is
*00, which is your Installer Code (IC).
A common error among novices is to program a new IC (Installer Code) in field *00, thinking that they've programmed a new MC (Master Code). You must enter *01 to advance to field *01 in programming, in order to change the MC.
I'm sorry if I'm coming across as pedantic, but when things don't add up, I have to check step-by-step to confirm that you actually did "follow the instructions." The symptoms here are a lot like someone trying to use the Installer Code as a User Code. It's an error that is insidious because it
usually works.
In fact, the Installer Code
can be used to arm the system (I advise against it) and can be used to disarm the system
as long as the IC was used to arm the system in that arming event. But the IC
cannot disarm the system if any other means was used to arm: For instance, if the Quik-Arm method was used to arm---which is why I advise against using the IC for anything other than getting into Panel Programming Mode.
Try this experiment with the code you're calling the Master Code. Enter CODE + 8 + 00 and see if it puts you into Programming Mode (keypad display will include the program address "00"---not sure what else the 6137 displays, I've only worked with the 2-line Alpha Keypads). If your code gets you into programming, then it's an Installer Code, not a Master Code. Enter *01 to program Master Code.
Zone 01 is the fire alarm. We had been receiving 01 a while back and I replaced the smoke detector thinking it would solve it. It didn't. New detector was wired and has a resistor in there just like the old one did. Not sure if we bypassed it (CODE+ BYPASS button) but I seem to remember always seeing CHECK 01 on the screen but still being able to arm the system AWAY or STAY before we had this issue.
Not sure what you mean by "receiving 01". A keypad display should say "FAULT" or "CHECK". "Fault" in a fire zone is alarm-speak for "in alarm state", meaning that the zone loop (circuit) is shorted (zero or near-zero resistance). "Check" in a fire zone means that the loop shows "open", i.e., infinite or extremely high resistance. Note that the two conditions are diametrically opposite, so it makes a difference whether "FAULT" or "CHECK" is displayed along with "01".
A bad smoke detector can't cause a "Check" condition, because "open" is its normal standby state. What you should be reading on the two wires of Zone 1 (its loop) is ~2K-Ohms, the value of the End-of-Line Resistor (EOLR). Which is why I recommend putting the 2K EOLR across T9 and T10 until we get this arming situation squared away, so the symptoms aren't compounded.
You can decide later whether you want to troubleshoot your fire zone or continue to ignore it. Obviously, as a veteran service tech, I'm going to recommend you fix the Z1 problem, but being able to arm and disarm takes priority, since a working fire zone is worthless if you have to keep your system powered down.