Maker Pro

Samsung SmartKegger

Make a refused error prone frigerator into a modern brewmasters lager box

Project Log

Retrieved 3000.00 fridge from angry consumer for cost of gas approx $1.00
Found compressor was empty of freon, so assumed a leaky compressor. Shop time 3hrs [email protected][imath]7.00/hr approx[/imath]21.00
vac tested the lines overnight, held 10# over 10hrs. assuming micron drain somewhere. apprx $21.00
Put 95g of 5 micron sealer in system, and recharged w/ approx 195g 134a freon freon [imath]19.95 and shop time[/imath]14.00
Forced operation of fridge proved system is functioning properly. 24hr shop hrs as prelim assessment $7.00
Touching inverter board capacitor tops resulted in electrical shock to tech, and tech got influenza from dirty fridge.... priceless!
Ohmage in ground from grounding lug of PSU to steel case back wall produced outcome difference of 1.6 ohms from calibrated probes
Door alarm is sounding every minute. The wiring from the doors connector at the bottom has been pulled apart, and is temporarily screw connected together.
Tech requires proper wiring harness diagram for both bottom door harnesses.
Freezer door alarm power test i.e. CN50 #7 to #9 and refridgerator door #6 to #9 resulted in improper voltages.
test parameters failed at 0v test (was 1.3v)
test paramaters failed at 5v (was 1.0v)
(questioning tech ability who is considering an inductor to compensate for 1.6ohms at ground lug and hasn't finished the test on CN30 yet...)
CN30 test conclusions were similar to CN50 tests.

Latest updates

Starting to cool off here. sunshiny day, plenty to do.
The device has multiple sensors, and switches.. 11-13 sensors and 4 or 5 switches.. heh!
So the freezer temp is right again, and the system appears to be working after a complete halt this morning when I punched in self diagnostics on the panel control. Its probably one of the freeze sensors, or the fact that the connectors on the bottom under the doors are connected wrong. When they were sorried about losing their fresh foods to defrost, the previous sowners took steps to move it but when they pulled the doors off, they forgot to disconnect the wiring and pulled the wiring out of the connectors. I need to know how they are supposed to connect... none of the wires are color coded as I can see right now, so I need to talk with a service tech I think.
Assuming it was the Freezer temp sensor that was bad due to difference in temp from the panel to actual, I returned to the study. The function was at readout 21, that's a proper freezer temp readout. maybe not the freezer sensor. this morning I will check the temps again, and start the discussion module of this project named - drum roll (I love to name stuff) - LED CODE PROPAGANDA -
The fridge uses the individual LEDs in the 7 led readout (7 leds make each individual number) where A is the top, D is the bottom, and G is the middle, and B and C correspond to the right side, and E and F when clockwise. EXAMPLE- Assuming a code of double digit 1 in digit 1 of the double digit 1 and there are 2 double digits... A digit light that shows an " h " might be a code of A, B, D But if patterns are deciphered as huge tuples, this could be a code of C, E, F, G. These codes are graphed in the service manual as what each individual LED in the digit represents (ROFLMAO or ROTFL) Maybe the first double digit represents the F digits, F-10 and F-1, and the second double digit represents the R digits, R-10 and R-1 freezer and refrigerator respectfully.)
The service manual says and I quote... now this is chart data in a table row....
"N0.23 --- Normal --- 'e' and 'f' in the lowest order digits of the R compartment, and the LEDs are all turned off --- When the external temperature is within range of 22 degrees centigrade ~ 33 degrees centigrade."
So I am assuming that "R compartment" is the R double digits, and the "lowest order digits of the R compartment" is the R-1 digit.
and all the lights should be off. but after closer study it actually says when the temperature outside the fridge is normal "e" and "f" are off. but there again you are hitting and missing... fairly confusing bit of code huh.
Complete decypher?
'No.23, is normal, and lights e and f in the fourth digit stack are both off when the external temperature is within 22c to 33c'

But they are both on.
The service manual for this fridge, is written in some kind of pidgeonenglish that is frankly, (even for me) noteworthy of wrongdoing. I would tell the author, editor and officials in charge of its creation, that although I am capable of deciphering most of it, adding clauses at the end of a chapter that say things like, 'although you can change these settings, they are set at the factory, and it's probably not really a good idea to change any of them' is a surefired way to cause a loss of interest in an otherwise very interesting and educational piece of expensive product.

The way it's written is typical of the 1970's street jargon of space and drugs to fill it with. Reminds me of a novella writer trying to introduce a rocket scientist.
I have the fridge on forced operation for 24hrs.
I set all the functions to the defaults in the service manual
The freezer is cooling down, the fridge is cooling down, the CV room is cooling down. i.e. the refridgerant valve system is in 'swing' and functioning properly.
The sensor in the Freezer is not working on the panel. It is well below freezing and the panel is reading 38 degrees. Yesturday, the sensor was working, so there must be a bug in the system somewhere! This morning, The freezer was a 21 and the fridge at 34, the CV was a happy cold beer 38. Really good cooling for a piece of junk! I need to name my new smart kegger... like Geniusbeer or Beerai or LagerBrain... anyway I will work on that! Its stainless so maybe it should be Steelbrew or 'Metalager' I like that Metalager!
day over report end sub sys mem dump eat drink dance... procreate!

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4856 Jackson Hwy, Toledo, WA 98591

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