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24W DC to DC converter

Hi,
I want to design a DC to DC converter. The input voltage will vary
from 9.5v to 33 volts and. Output voltage should be 12V 2A. Can anyone
suggest me the best topology and PWM controller should i use for this
circuit? the total BOM should be below $3.4.
 
T

Tom Bruhns

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hi,
I want to design a DC to DC converter. The input voltage will vary
from 9.5v to 33 volts and. Output voltage should be 12V 2A. Can anyone
suggest me the best topology and PWM controller should i use for this
circuit? the total BOM should be below $3.4.


The input voltage range includes the output voltage, and that suggests
searching for a "buck-boost" controller, or a "SEPIC" controller. Try
the usual suspects: Linear Technology, Maxim, ... Their web sites
will have product data sheets and ap notes. See, for example, Maxim
ap note 1161 for a somewhat similar design The cost will depend
heavily on how many you want to build; one-off, you may have some
trouble making it for $3.40. You didn't mention if you want the
output isolated from the input or not, nor what efficiency you'd like
to attain, by the way.

Cheers,
Tom
 
Thanks for ur replay
Isolation is not required. I am going to use it for car audio, so
ground terminal will be same for i/p and o/p. And the efficiency
should be more than 75%..
 
M

mpm

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hi,
I want to design a DC to DC converter. The input voltage will vary
from 9.5v to 33 volts and. Output voltage should be 12V 2A. Can anyone
suggest me the best topology and  PWM controller should i use for this
circuit? the total BOM should be below $3.4.

Did you try National's online design bench?
Go here: http://www.national.com/appinfo/power/webench.html

-mpm
 
R

Rich Grise

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thanks for ur replay
Isolation is not required. I am going to use it for car audio, so
ground terminal will be same for i/p and o/p. And the efficiency
should be more than 75%..

This is a non-sequitur. First, you say you want an input voltage range
from 3.3V ~ 33V or something, with a 12V output, then you say it's for
"car audio."

This doesn't follow, because cars already have 12V nominal (usually
closer to 13.5~14.2V), and it's not usually "regulated", but merely
protected from the hash and spikes that come with a car supply.

What are you really trying to accomplish? Get your homework done
for you so you don't have to do the actual work?

Maybe ask the teacher, "Where am I supposed to get these things?
Why are you giving me an assignment when I don't understand its
fundamentals?" that sort of thing.

And please learn to trim and bottom-post.

Good Luck!
Rich
 
T

Tam/WB2TT

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thanks for ur replay
Isolation is not required. I am going to use it for car audio, so
ground terminal will be same for i/p and o/p. And the efficiency
should be more than 75%..
Not obvious why you are doing this. If you are concerned about somebody
hooking up a 28V boost battery, the radio would be the last thing I would
worry about. However, some kind of over voltage protection would be easy
enough to come up with. As for the 9.5 Volts, good time to turn the radio
off; the car might still start.

Tam
 
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