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30 yr old blower quit.

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noquacks

Jun 26, 2013
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People,

Have a Craftsman electric blower, here:


Seems like the switch may be bad. It has High, Low, and OFF. Picture below. Factory page in link shows switch no longer available. Not sure if picture is good enough for one to analyze. I have a multimeter, if advice how to test by ohms, etc.

Thanks.
 

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Martaine2005

May 12, 2015
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Appears to be an open slide switch. Start by cleaning it. Use a contact cleaner, squirting inside and vigorously sliding the switch positions. It should clean the carbon tracks.

Martin
 

noquacks

Jun 26, 2013
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Ok, that was quick, with 220 grit sandpaper. Shiny as new now. So I then tested continuity on switch between blade 1 and 2 (good) then between 2 and 3(good). So switch appears to be OK, right?

THEN, I tested for continuity at the wires themselves, between black and white. No continuity. Gotta be a break in the wires, right?
Now I remember, when the blower was on its last leg, blowing intermittently, it "blew" as long as I fiddled around/twisting the wires, where they go into the body. Should I splice the heavy rubber covering and inspect? It's a big heavy black rubber grommet.
 
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Martaine2005

May 12, 2015
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Ah yes. Check continuity of the individual wires in the mains cable. The usual suspected break is ironically in the cable strain relief. You can cut a few inches off and reconnect the wires.
 

noquacks

Jun 26, 2013
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OK, rechecked continuity for the blk/wht wires, and they are good! I must have not have touched the right ends/wires before. Sorry for confusion, but the way I tested was directly from the 2 prong connector, one to each blk/and wht wire ends. They are GOOD.

BUT, why I am mystified, I checked continuity omn the switch, and it passed (based on my judgement, the ohmmeter rang loudly), and continuity is good for the 2 wires connected to the switch, but when I add 120V nothing happens. AND, with 120V I tested for voltage at the blade connectors (carefully!) I got no voltage. What the heck am I doing wrong? I am going by the book, withhelp from great people here.
 
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danadak

Feb 19, 2021
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Take you ohmmeter, one probe on one of the plug blades, and walk down
the wire path all the way to the motor. Dop same for other plug blade.
That should tell you where break is.

Sanding contacts leaves behind particles that can compromise switch
contact effectiveness. Contact cleaner or 90% rubbing alcohol good
to clean. Try jumpering switch to see if thats the primary issue still. Do
the jumpering with power off.....

Contact dress, in future use 600 - 800 grit wet or dry, and then flush with
cleaner.


Regards, Dana.
 
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Martaine2005

May 12, 2015
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If you have no voltage across the mains wires inside the blower, the cable itself needs cutting back and reconnecting. Cut about 4 or 5 inches back from the ‘grommet’ (strain relief). That should sort it out.
You can of course use clips on your meter leads and jiggle the cable to see if the meter reading drops out.

Martin
 

noquacks

Jun 26, 2013
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Thanks, people. Will take some time, but willing to try your advice.......
 

noquacks

Jun 26, 2013
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Wow, I guess shining up those contacts did the trick. Seems too easy! Now, both On positions work- low, and high! Anyway, In guess the 30 year old blower will last for another who knows how many years! Thanks, people!
 

roughshawd

Jul 13, 2020
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Do the wires have nylon zip ties holding them in? Notorious mistake I just rebuilt an old oscillating fan with two busted wires that had been pinched my the tight zip ties.... Check the wires where they are pinched... For breaks .... Opens. It worked for 30 years, there is a reason it quit
 
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