masterguns
- Aug 18, 2010
- 7
- Joined
- Aug 18, 2010
- Messages
- 7
Another poster started off his thread by saying he was a computer geek and not an electronics one and asking the forum to please bear with him. In this being my first post, I'm here to ask the same as I try to resolve an issue with my car amplifier. I'll try to be as descriptive as possible and ask that anyone trying to help ask me any questions if you need clarification. Apologies in advance, the following reads more like a story than a technical description.
To the issue at hand. My car amplifier (specs below) has an issue with the remote on/off feature. One day, per my mistake, the ground came loose and the protection light came on. I promptly reconnected the ground and everything was supposedly just fine. Ever since, however, the amp has the annoying habit on turning itself back on a few minutes after the head unit turns off. It will remain on, draining my car battery, until the power supply is pulled. After months of frustration, manually plugging and unplugging the power lead, I attempted to troubleshoot the problem myself. I opened the amp and did a visual inspection. I found a single rectifier with brown grime on it, but that's it. I know that's not much to go on and no guarantee that that's where my problem lie, nevertheless, I removed the rectifier. I then tried to find a replacement hoping that would cure the issue. The rectifier is labeled: "FMU22U 71 > 15". I assumed FMU22U is a model number and 71 > 15 refers to current. Doing the little bit of research I've done, and maybe someone can clarify this, a rectifier converts AC to DC current. I assume 71 > 15 is referring to amps or volts. I tired finding a replacement to no avail. Apparently FMU22U is a model # unique to a specific manufacturing company. I do believe it is a kin to a TO220. There's all different kinds, however, and I have no idea the difference between them. At this point, I'm in a little over my head. Like I said before, I am not an electronics geek so beyond doing a visual inspection, I'm not sure what step to take next. I'm not even sure I'm on the right track.
I do believe, though, I can rule out a problem with the remote lead itself. I measured the voltage with the HU on and off and they appeared normal.
I really just want to ask the help of those who are more adept at this subject than I. If you have any ideas or think you can help clarify some of my confusion, or if you want to try to help me figure this out, I ask that you please post your thoughts. I sure would appreciate it. I would love to be able to repair this amp myself rather than pay a shop or buy a new one. Thank you in advance and again, I apologize for being so green.
To the issue at hand. My car amplifier (specs below) has an issue with the remote on/off feature. One day, per my mistake, the ground came loose and the protection light came on. I promptly reconnected the ground and everything was supposedly just fine. Ever since, however, the amp has the annoying habit on turning itself back on a few minutes after the head unit turns off. It will remain on, draining my car battery, until the power supply is pulled. After months of frustration, manually plugging and unplugging the power lead, I attempted to troubleshoot the problem myself. I opened the amp and did a visual inspection. I found a single rectifier with brown grime on it, but that's it. I know that's not much to go on and no guarantee that that's where my problem lie, nevertheless, I removed the rectifier. I then tried to find a replacement hoping that would cure the issue. The rectifier is labeled: "FMU22U 71 > 15". I assumed FMU22U is a model number and 71 > 15 refers to current. Doing the little bit of research I've done, and maybe someone can clarify this, a rectifier converts AC to DC current. I assume 71 > 15 is referring to amps or volts. I tired finding a replacement to no avail. Apparently FMU22U is a model # unique to a specific manufacturing company. I do believe it is a kin to a TO220. There's all different kinds, however, and I have no idea the difference between them. At this point, I'm in a little over my head. Like I said before, I am not an electronics geek so beyond doing a visual inspection, I'm not sure what step to take next. I'm not even sure I'm on the right track.
I do believe, though, I can rule out a problem with the remote lead itself. I measured the voltage with the HU on and off and they appeared normal.
I really just want to ask the help of those who are more adept at this subject than I. If you have any ideas or think you can help clarify some of my confusion, or if you want to try to help me figure this out, I ask that you please post your thoughts. I sure would appreciate it. I would love to be able to repair this amp myself rather than pay a shop or buy a new one. Thank you in advance and again, I apologize for being so green.
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