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anybody used "wire glue"?

I am told it is good for replacing the batteries in Holden car keys,
as soldering them can be tricky.
I see Jaycar and a few others sell it.
 
S

Sylvia Else

Jan 1, 1970
0
I am told it is good for replacing the batteries in Holden car keys,
as soldering them can be tricky.
I see Jaycar and a few others sell it.

I tried it for much the same application, with little success.

Sylvia.
 
B

Bob Milutinovic

Jan 1, 1970
0
Sylvia Else said:
I tried it for much the same application, with little success.

Sylvia.

Many, MANY moons ago, when I was working at Tandy Electronics, we sold
"solder tape" - which was almost as effective as wrapping an aluminium
chewing gum wrapper around the joint. By the sounds of it, this "wire glue"
is about as good.

If you're needing to solder directly to a button cell, just score the
surface extensively with a sharp blade and solder directly to it with a hot
iron and some fine rosin-cored solder; the joint will last at least as long
as the cell.
 
S

Sylvia Else

Jan 1, 1970
0
Many, MANY moons ago, when I was working at Tandy Electronics, we sold
"solder tape" - which was almost as effective as wrapping an aluminium
chewing gum wrapper around the joint. By the sounds of it, this "wire
glue" is about as good.

If you're needing to solder directly to a button cell, just score the
surface extensively with a sharp blade and solder directly to it with a
hot iron and some fine rosin-cored solder; the joint will last at least
as long as the cell.

I'd made some limited attempts to solder to the cells, but had concluded
that it was simply not possible. Since you say it can be done, I'll have
to give it another go.

Sylvia.
 
B

Bob Milutinovic

Jan 1, 1970
0
Sylvia Else said:
I'd made some limited attempts to solder to the cells, but had concluded
that it was simply not possible. Since you say it can be done, I'll have
to give it another go.

Sylvia.

The trick is in the scoring; you need to create a rough surface devoid of
the shiny outer layer, then solder to it as quickly as possible before it's
had a chance to start oxidising.
 
A

atec77

Jan 1, 1970
0
Bobs spot on about scraping off the oxide layer first.

It may be the wrong thing to do but I use a very hot iron to get the
joint done quickly. A spot of liquid flux may help too.

tap the area with a die grinder , some isoprp and solder quickly
trick is not to leave residue or the soldering fails

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yaputya

Jan 1, 1970
0
atec77 said:
tap the area with a die grinder , some isoprp and solder quickly
trick is not to leave residue or the soldering fails

This seppo tried wire glue on an "aloominum" solar cell.
He won't use it again unless it's impossible to "sodder".
 
A

atec77

Jan 1, 1970
0
This seppo tried wire glue on an "aloominum" solar cell.
He won't use it again unless it's impossible to "sodder".
It's useful for repairing small breaks , things like slot car frames but
it is bad electrically and wont glue to stainless very well or chrome ,
and the metal surfaces need a good sanding

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X-No-Archive: Yes
 
Y

yaputya

Jan 1, 1970
0
atec77 said:
It's useful for repairing small breaks , things like slot car frames but it is bad electrically and wont glue to stainless very
well or chrome , and the metal surfaces need a good sanding

Has anyone tried 'mini' spot-welding these batteries?
Maybe you could do it with a hefty bench PS or a car battery etc.
 
B

Bob Milutinovic

Jan 1, 1970
0
yaputya said:
Has anyone tried 'mini' spot-welding these batteries?
Maybe you could do it with a hefty bench PS or a car battery etc.

I've tried it in the past, with very limited success.

The problem is that only a tiny area of the conductor actually "welds" to
the battery, meaning that a butterfly in the Amazon flapping its wings too
violently would be enough to cause the joint to fail.
 
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