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Arcam Solo Mini - dead CD player

Dogbertd

Oct 17, 2022
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Hi!

Electronics newbie here.

I bought an Arcam Solo Mini on ebay, and I'm very happy with it. It's a fine amp, and everything works except the CD player, which apparently goes through the initialisation procedure on the display screen, but the player itself makes no response, the platter doesn't spin, and eventually I get a "bad disc" error. I removed the player and can see no obvious fault. I can't tell if it's getting no power or no signal to initialise, but the motors never stir, even when a disc is inserted.

The model seems to be a "Komec" and has a serial number "c108*122130053".

The player seems connected to the main PCB by a ribbon cable and what's confusing me is that I see no other connection to provide power to the CD motors. Can a ribbon cable provide power to the player, or is there some other connector that is missing? I just took it that the ribbon cable was for control of the player, not for its power, but I'd be grateful if someone could let me know.

Thanks!
 

Martaine2005

May 12, 2015
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The ribbon cable is more than capable of supplying power to the small motors.
You need to see if the motors are getting a supply voltage.
A schematic of the circuit would be extremely useful here. See if you can find one on the internet.

Martin
 

Dogbertd

Oct 17, 2022
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Thanks! That's very helpful. I was able to check that the motors would spin if given a separate voltage (from a battery) and they do. So the problem doesn't seem to be with the motors or the mechanics, and if the ribbon cable can supply a power source, then the question becomes does it, and if not, why not?

I don't know if it's OK to post circuit diagrams here, so I'm attaching it in the hopes that perhaps it will make the story clearer.

Herewith some photos of the CD unit.

IMG_0952.JPG

IMG_0950.JPG

IMG_0948.JPG

Thanks again!
 

Attachments

  • arcam_solo_mini_issue2_sch.pdf
    1.6 MB · Views: 10

Martaine2005

May 12, 2015
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This forum actively encourages photos and schematic diagrams. It’s a necessity .
I would personally start by cracking open the top casing and checking that drive belts and pinions are all ok. No cracked plastic pinions on the motors?, no fluff or debris hindering movement and drive belts not slipping or stretched. Also check the take up mechanism with magnet.

Martin
 

Dogbertd

Oct 17, 2022
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So I've taken off the casing and had a look at it. There are no obstacles to movement, and no debris or anything. I think the drive belt does look a bit slack, but I'd emphasise that it's not that motors are spinning and straining against something, or spinning and failing to engage the belt - the thing seems completely lifeless. When I reattach it to the body of the Arcam and switch it on, there's no life at all, no twitches, no nothing. A bit of a mystery to me at the moment, but I suppose if you buy off ebay caveat emptor!
 

Martaine2005

May 12, 2015
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If you have a multimeter, you can check voltages at the ribbon cable. If no voltages present, trace backwards. This is where a bright flashlight is useful for shining it from the underside of PCB.
But a schematic might be your only hope really.

Martin
 

Dogbertd

Oct 17, 2022
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I've had a bit of a go at tracing back the power. If I understand the schematic correctly, the ribbon cable should be capable of providing +8V, but it's producing nothing, and running backwards I'm not seeing any power through any of the bits I think should be connected to it.

So it's a puzzle, but I wonder if someone can educate me a bit? If it says (eg) +8V in the schematic, should I expect to see that all the time the unit is on, or is that an "on-demand" figure?
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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OH TAY ! . . . . . . .dogbert . . . ( my kinda guy)
Going back to your provided Pee Dee Eff . . . . which I am surprised as being so readily available. BUT with their QUITE skimpy image creation and resultant low STORAGE bit count, resulting in the images being quite BORDERLINE on definition of any fine printing.
But, if you will go to PDF page 3 and direct interest to the left top corner of that page you will see multiple regulators stacked up there. Drop down to the bottom and then come up to the second regulator and take note of its U2003 regulator IC and see if your eyes don't agree that the wishy washy image produced is declaring its output as being CD +8v at E-cap C2006 or its initial input raw DC voltage is being back at E-cap C2012. Check and see if those voltages are present and can then be trailed to the units CD player input cable and there . . . . find the 8V as VCC at pins 7 and 8 of U2019 / LB1641 as shown on PDF page 6's very bottom.
 

Dogbertd

Oct 17, 2022
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Ta, this is very helpful: I shall go hunting.

And yes, I think I got eyestrain squinting at the screen trying to figure out the detail in the lo-def PDF.
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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dogbert

In looking at your 1st reference photo , at left top corner, it certainly looks like those are the solder blob sides of that 10 pin connector.
That has the very top connection being #1 ground connection and then the clincher is the Z1 zener diode going over to connect into pin #4 and then you follow on down to the all important power pins of # 7 and 8.
 

Dogbertd

Oct 17, 2022
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OK, so I had a chance to investigate E-caps C2006 and E-cap C2012. These appear to have no voltage across them at all, and I couldn't detect anything at U2003, either. BR2001, however was happily chucking out 15V, so I can only think that something has gone amiss between the two. As I have zero skills with a soldering iron, a repair of any of this is out of the question.

Nevertheless I have a fine amp, DAB + FM radio and can attach an external CD player to it, so I'm still very pleased. And - thanks to some kind responses, I've learnt a little about circuits and how to measure electric trickery with a multimeter.

Thanks! Steve
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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Sir dogbert . . . .

BR2001, however was happily chucking out 15V

Say feller !

Do you know how potentially close you might be to finding yourself a free no cost repair ?


Let me now throw a bit of further enlightenment your way.

Start with a stone cold dead unit and therewith, we should have no voltages present if having then being totally unplugged from A.C. power..

In my consulting the schema again . . . over at BLURRY city.

I am considering that you meter probed and took DC voltage measurements directly across the BR2001's leads / solder pads.

Its negative lead then has to daisy chain in and out and be making multiple connections over to the right . . . . . I count 5 with last # 5 being the negative end of Filter cap C2006.
NOW . . . . lets redirect our attention to " TROUBLE CITY " area .
You measured a VALID +15VDC at BR2001, so at that connection, we then go right, where we initially see the clutter caused by Diode D2021 and all of its connected crap . . . its just showing, that its C2011 is making its grounding into the V- bottom connection.
Getting on with the REAL power path now, with the BR2001 + going to the right until it connects to C2012 filter's + connection.
You say voltage is not being there, so it must be getting lost just between the BR2001 V+ connective points going up to the + of C2012 filter cap. ( only 2 ! )

HOWTODOITTOIT . . . . .

I never could quite locate the bridge rectifier blocks and regulators in your supplied photos BUT I did see the units QUITE magnificent toroidal power transformer.
When you start physically tracking those connection points, I would suspect those to be on PCB foil paths with solder pad terminations.

Lets give that multi meter of yours another functional workout by now using its low ohms portion this time.
Flip to lowest ohms range (unless its auto ranging for you ) and short out your test leads to see the EXACT manner of display, that it produces on a valid DIRECT electrical connection ( short) . Take a mental imprint.

EXCERCISE . . .

Stab meter BLACK test lead into BR2001 V- connection and hold here , while the RED lead is walked between C2001 ground lead ( not really related to our problem) and expect your having a good connection by the meters reading. Then move RED metering probe on down to C2007 grounding lead, then R2136's grounding lead and finally C2006 grounding lead.as the last measurement. . . . . . all should be interconnected and with the meter measurements confirming that.
With your new proficiency and emboldened confidence, now move to the BR2001 V+ connection and stab meter negative lead into that connection (expecting it to be a pcb pad ? ) and then see if the meter RED lead being connected to C2012 + lead ( be sure its the + lead . . .not neg) shows our usual good continuity readings. Most meters will show Open Line for a non connection.
If you get an OL reading / non connection /open. . . . . . . inspect either / both the BR2001 + lead and / or the C2012 + lead as having a / its wire lead connection floating in their solder blobs.
Sometimes its VEWY-VEWY hard to see . . . . . or, other times . . . . you can wiggle the component proper and see its wire lead move within the solder joint.
Now . . . . . go ye forth and
CHECK IT OUT !

Thaaaaaaaaassit.

73's de Edd . . . . .



You cannot achieve the impossible without sometimes, initially attempting the absurd.



.
 
Last edited:

Dogbertd

Oct 17, 2022
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Well I've tried to follow this up, but as far as I can see, my Multimeter tells me that all the connections you mention are OK, The -Ve pole of BR2001 looked distinctly ratty, but it seemed as if it is still connecting OK.

I thought you might like some photos for your amusement. Top and bottom of the board. On the photo showing the underside of the board, BR2001 is the vertical line of pegs below C2011.

IMG_0984.JPG

IMG_0977.JPG
 

vukina

Feb 6, 2023
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Feb 6, 2023
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Hi, could anyone help?
I have arcam solo mini and when I play CD with output to another receiver it seems too loud
 
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