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Brand Recommendations For Swamp Coolers?

O

Owen Reese

Jan 1, 1970
0
I'm looking to get a swamp cooler in the $300 or so neighborhood . Been looking at
web pages and reviews are really hard to find. I have come across a few, have sorta
elminated a couple from consideration.

This would be for a room about 20 x 20. Easy mainentance (like pads/filters) and
quietness a plus ;)

I'm looking at a Symphony Sumo Jr from Amazon. Also on my short list are Sunpentown
SF-608R, Newair AF-320 or AF-330

Are there any reviews anywhere? Anyone have personal experiences/recommendations?

tia
 
I'm looking to get a swamp cooler in the $300 or so neighborhood . Been looking at
web pages and reviews are really hard to find. I have come across a few, have sorta
elminated a couple from consideration.

This would be for a room about 20 x 20. Easy mainentance (like pads/filters) and
quietness a plus ;)

I'm looking at a Symphony Sumo Jr from Amazon. Also on my short list are Sunpentown
SF-608R, Newair AF-320 or AF-330

Are there any reviews anywhere? Anyone have personal experiences/recommendations?

tia

We've used a Bonaire Vail for the last month. Holds 7 gallons. 60W
low, 80 medium, 100W high. About $235 at Home Depot. Manufacturer's
page http://www.bonaire.com.au/products/products4.html Simple
construction, mostly plastic. Assembles quickly without tools. Filler
door is small, it's fine for a hose but might be messy if you were
filling it with a bucket. Fan is very powerful even on low, and is
kinda' loud on high. Rolls nicely on smooth surfaces, but when full
it's pretty heavy. I shopped around a fair bit and it seemed the best
combination of price and efficiency.

Wayne
 
Owen Reese said:
I'm looking at a Symphony Sumo Jr from Amazon. Also on my short list are
Sunpentown SF-608R, Newair AF-320 or AF-330

I'd vote for the Sumo, since it can evaporate 4 liters per hour (about
9K Btu/h), vs 0.45 and 0.65 liters for the others. Or a Mastercool MMB8.
Turn it on with a thermostat when the room temp rises to 80 F and run
a small exhaust fan with a humidistat when the room RH rises to 60%.

Nick
 
V

Vaughn Simon

Jan 1, 1970
0
Anthony Matonak said:
They are power hogs but they will work regardless of the humidity.

It all relative (in more ways than one). Here in South Florida, the swamp
cooler would be the energy hog.

Vaughn
 
B

betsyb

Jan 1, 1970
0
Pardon my ignorance, what is a swamp cooler?

--

"Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with
the intention of arriving safely in an attractive
and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, chocolate in
one hand, Starbucks in the other, totally worn
out and screaming, "WOO HOO. what a ride!"


BetsyB
 
R

Rod Speed

Jan 1, 1970
0
betsyb said:
Pardon my ignorance,

No way, its completely unpardonable.
what is a swamp cooler?

One that cools by evaporating water.

As opposed to the main alternative that cools by a refrigeration system.
 
R

Rick Blaine

Jan 1, 1970
0
John Weiss said:
Downside is that it doesn't work well when ambient humidity is
already high.

....with the definition of "high" being anything above 20% RH. Basically, a good
rule of thumb is that if they aren't stocked at the local Home Depot or Lowes,
you shouldn't be thinking about buying one. The damage you can do in a very
short time by injecting that much moisture into a house is amazing.
 
Anthony Matonak said:
...
I can't help with you actual question. I can suggest that you can
find window air conditioners much cheaper than $300. A quick web
search found me a number of 10,000BTU units for around $220 which
is claimed to be enough for 400+ square feet.

They are power hogs but they will work regardless of the humidity.

The $298 Mastercool Mobile MMB10 (Grainger 5MU36) has a garden hose
connection and draws 3.5 amps at 120 V. Adobe Air says it can cool
2000 cfm of 110 F 10% RH air 32 F, about 69K Btu/h (6 tons), like 14
5K Btu/h window air conditioners :)

An airtight 20'x20' room with no internal heat gains and 1040 ft^2 of
R11 walls and ceiling and 1040ft^2/R11 = 95 Btu/h-F of conductance at
80 F on a 100 F day would only need (100-80)95 = 1900 Btu/h of net
cooling. Air at 100 F and 10% RH has humidity ratio wo = 0.004 pounds
of water per pound of dry air, vs wi = 0.012 for 80 F indoor air at
60% RH. If we evaporate P pounds of water per hour and ventilate with
C cfm of outdoor air at 0.075 lb/ft^3 and P = 60C0.075(0.012-0.004),
C = 27.8P. If 1000P = 1900+(100-80)C = 1900+556P, P = 4.3 and C = 119,
so an MMB10 might run about 100x4.3/69 = 6% of the time and a $55 Lasko
2155A 16" 90 W 2470 cfm window fan would only run 100x119/2470 = 5%
of the time, just coasting :) Exhaust air might leave the room via
the attic, to keep the room cooler.

For more cooling capacity with dry outdoor air, we might put an MMB10
(or its MMB8 younger brother) in a box near a window inside a house
with a Lasko intake fan in the window and use the fan thermostat
to turn on the cooler when the room temp rises to 80 F and a humidistat
to turn on the fan when the indoor RH rises to 60%, with 1-way plastic
film dampers in a box between the cooler and the window to force
outdoor fan air to flow through the cooler pad when the fan is running
and make indoor air flow through the cooler when the window fan is not
running, like this, viewed in a fixed font like Courier:

left | |
| |
---------
| |llld| |
|c| d| | outdoors
|o| d|f|
<==|o| d|a| <== With the window fan off, indoor air
|l| d|n| would flow in through left and right
|e| d| | dampers lll and rrr. With the fan on,
|r| d| | damper ddd would open and the fan air
| |rrrd| | would force lll and rrr closed.
---------
| |
right

We might have 4 modes:
80 F >60%| window fan cooler fan cooler water
--------------|-----------------------------------------------
1. no no | off off off
2. no yes | on off off
3. yes no | off on on
4. yes yes | on off on

Case 3 would maintain indoor comfort with less water than an external
swamp cooler, for a house with significant natural air leakage, ie
for almost all houses.

Nick
 
An airtight 20'x20' room with no internal heat gains and 1040 ft^2 of
R11 walls and ceiling and 1040ft^2/R11 = 95 Btu/h-F of conductance at
80 F on a 100 F day would only need (100-80)95 = 1900 Btu/h of net
cooling. Air at 100 F and 10% RH has humidity ratio wo = 0.004 pounds
of water per pound of dry air, vs wi = 0.012 for 80 F indoor air at
60% RH. If we evaporate P pounds of water per hour and ventilate with
C cfm of outdoor air at 0.075 lb/ft^3 and P = 60C0.075(0.012-0.004),
C = 27.8P. If 1000P = 1900+(100-80)C = 1900+556P, P = 4.3 and C = 119,
so an MMB10 might run about 100x4.3/69 = 6% of the time and a $55 Lasko
2155A 16" 90 W 2470 cfm window fan would only run 100x119/2470 = 5%
of the time, just coasting...

Then again, the $20 nuclear bong cooler referenced here:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bong_cooler

made about 8K Btu/h with 30" of 6" PVC pipe and a 6" fan. The sidearm
might have 2 6" fans with backdraft dampers, one pushing room air into
the arm and another pushing in air from a window, with 4 modes:
80 F >60%| window fan cooler fan cooler water
--------------|-----------------------------------------------
1. no no | off off off
2. no yes | on off off
3. yes no | off on on
4. yes yes | on off on

Nick
 
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