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buggy board, bad tech and strange readout... heh heh

roughshawd

Jul 13, 2020
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I would be probably better off just buying a new PBA and put it in the fridge, but I feel so close to fixing it!!!
Everything still looks good, in fact the readout seems to be running better than it did before except that the sensors are not proper, and read out -8 degrees while the Wi-Fi tells me the fridge is ok and in actuallity, it is not cooling down at all !!! and sends an error back that says the freezer is overheating.
The main PBA board is different from the one in the repair manual... I can say and will post some pics... that the GGHI4-PJT C/NO:DA41-00827B 2016.12.28 Ver.01 B178X197, does not have the same configuration as the one in the book, but, it does seemingly does have the same pinouts. the board, having a part ID QR scan code of 06DA9404399E 100DMBC0311 is all parallel in sensor pinout and all series in Power pinouts --- Where the power pinouts driver heaters, motors and one lamp, and the sensors .
I had it cooling fine, sensors to the readout panel was working, did some repairs and it stopped cooling down.
Defined as something that I did, changed something!!!
better tie me down to the kangaroo and put me on a daily vigil... I think I'm going to be here a while!

I am going to try some things, and I don't need you guys getting upset about it. Its just an old junker smart fridge!

First thing I want to try, is going through my notes and see if I have the wires I fixed in the correct places... working laying down in the floor, and trying to wire a plug in under the front of the fridge with about 2" of space to work in was slightly disturbing!!!
Then I am going to turn off the individual room heaters, so the individual rooms will cool down rahter than defrost... As they may be defrosting all the time, keeping the rooms nice and dry and warm... this is on the assumption that the system might adapt to a failing door sensor, and warm up the fridge, so it doesn't blow up the compressor trying to keep itself cool. then I am going to indivdually disconnect each system, restarting on 15min intervals to allow everything to adapt to its failing system. there is an EEProm on the board in the book, and if i can reset the one on my board, it just might rebuild its index and restart the system.. I think that 20pin port is a diode option setting port.

The board in the book is a ROMANEE-CONTI-PJT C/NO:DA41 008( )A 2012.04.25 Ver.01 but I can't read the final number.
17 B or 8 something something 7. I would like lines to both these replacements if you got them!!!
GETTING PICS FOR YOU!
 

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roughshawd

Jul 13, 2020
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This is a pic of a stamp on the board it says Sensor CheckPoint and its numbered 1 through 13 for the individual sensors on the board. It is next to the 20 pin pinout next to the micom brainiac central processor chip in the middle of the board.
note for dedicated fans...
Arduino on steroids.
 

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kellys_eye

Jun 25, 2010
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ISTR we've been over this before (sigh).

The printed references relate to the pins of that port and allow a test set to be connected to examine all the onboard sensors around the fridge. You can measure them individually using a simple volt meter assuming you know what the voltage SHOULD be.
 

roughshawd

Jul 13, 2020
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Is that probe grounded to the board, or the case of the fridge, or just a divergent idiot on the business end of an oscilloscope?
 

kellys_eye

Jun 25, 2010
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As with any (non-differential) signal measurement, the ground is the common ground of the power supply.
 

roughshawd

Jul 13, 2020
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That's not what I learned in my basic electronics class. The actual ground is whatever ground is used on the board to handle the signal...
Like if you have a 5v signal, you have to use a 5v ground or the signal feedsback. Now I know there is a such thing as a feedback circuit, but I don't know anything about those, can you give me a short headsup?
 

roughshawd

Jul 13, 2020
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One other thing, can I test this board out of the fridge using a digital oscilloscope/multi-channels or is it one of those handheld passive sets that cost a grand or two?
 

kellys_eye

Jun 25, 2010
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One other thing, can I test this board out of the fridge using a digital oscilloscope/multi-channels or is it one of those handheld passive sets that cost a grand or two?
Cheaper and easier to use a simple test meter (multimeter).
 

crutschow

May 7, 2021
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The actual ground is whatever ground is used on the board to handle the signal...
Like if you have a 5v signal, you have to use a 5v ground or the signal feedsback
The circuit signal ground is usually tied to the power supply ground.

I have no idea what you mean by using the "signal feedsback" (whatever that is) as a reference.
 

Delta Prime

Jul 29, 2020
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or just a divergent idiot on the business end of an oscilloscope?
Hey...I resemble that remark!
do you mean the controlled feedback concerning the amount of energy that must be moved varied on the desired temperature of the cooled space, the ambient conditions, amount of humidity etc, and the level of internal heat generation within the cooled space perhaps in response to an defective actuator for example the door being left open on an refrigerator . In it's simplest form would require an oscillator who's zero crossing would be akin or same thing as ground reference or 0 volts.?
 
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