Maker Pro
Maker Pro

Charger fuse on the output side burned

gica69

Feb 8, 2017
28
Joined
Feb 8, 2017
Messages
28
So this is a fual unit one side charges a battery and the other plugs into a camera and keeps that running. The battery is charging but the camera does not turn on. I checked tye F3 fuse and it tests open. It's a flush mount fuse. What size should I get I included pics from the back It's output 4.25A and 16.5V Thanks
 

Attachments

  • 16952520182062472943804080219649.jpg
    16952520182062472943804080219649.jpg
    269.7 KB · Views: 8
  • 16952520390126246564425638966694.jpg
    16952520390126246564425638966694.jpg
    246 KB · Views: 8
  • 16952523961366101565396952200019.jpg
    16952523961366101565396952200019.jpg
    244.9 KB · Views: 8

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
3,636
Joined
Aug 21, 2015
Messages
3,636

Sir gica69 . . . . . .​


You're only showing bits and pieces of that unit so any chance that this is the unit, with my seeing the
little release lever and the Green status LED.

1400_products_img.jpg

With the time accumulated internal dust and deteris . . . . . . I'm dating it as both post Neanderthal and Cro Magnon and wanting to finally settle in as very late 1980'ish.
YET the 100-240 VAC input voltage magic suggests of a switch mode power supply being incorporated and thereby a decade or so newer.
You have two power figures given, the AC in of 100-240 VAC and a fuse associated with that power input would be rated at 1-2 Amps.
Then there is the ITEM F3 surface mount fuse that is white and has a 7 on it, as amps, which would be in agreement with the 16.5V and 4.25A power spec.
With the battery charging, no fault should be considered with the line input fuse.
IF THE BATTERY IS ACTUALLY CHARGING . . . . . . . could you wait for typical time of a full charge and then pull the combo unit completely off and merely use that charged ? naked battery alone, just to see if the camera works.
ASIDE . . . . .
Boy . . . . . .that'sa being one pricey suckah !
But what REEEEEEEEEEELY floored me was an accessory . . . .being an ( 8 dollar ) fiberglass strand brush / contact cleaner that they price at ( 34 dollars ) . . . . . . damn!

Thaaaaaaaaaaasit . . . . . . .

73's de Edd . . . . .

I remember when I was a kid I could go to the store with $1 and come home with 2 bags of chips, a hot dog, 3 candy bars, 6 packs of starburst, a big bag of popcorn and a big cold drink. . . . . . not nowadays . . . . . they gots cameras everywhere !
 
Last edited:

gica69

Feb 8, 2017
28
Joined
Feb 8, 2017
Messages
28
Sorry about that, it's the Anton/Bauer Tandem-70 On-Camera AC Power/Charger
Yeah I saw the 7. So the battery does charge but because of the popped fuse it doesn't charge the camera. So the input fuse is fine.
That white fuse is the culprit which could also involve other components triggering the short right? Where can I get those fuses? Thanks in advance.
Can I use any of these fuses?

OR

 
Last edited:

gica69

Feb 8, 2017
28
Joined
Feb 8, 2017
Messages
28
So can I use a surface mount 7Amp but 125VDC? As I read the Voltage doesn't matter if it's higher bit at 135 is way higher
 

Martaine2005

May 12, 2015
4,960
Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
4,960
The voltage rating is just the maximum.
You can always go above the rating but never below, for obvious reasons.

Martin
 

Delta Prime

Jul 29, 2020
2,115
Joined
Jul 29, 2020
Messages
2,115
As a supplement; on the topic of surface mount fuses in general.
 

Attachments

  • SMD_Fuses_Fundamentals.pdf
    2.2 MB · Views: 4

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
3,636
Joined
Aug 21, 2015
Messages
3,636
Sir gica69 . . . . . . . . .

If using your Mouser choice, that is being a SLOW blow fuse, so re research and filter for being a fast blow unit.

FAULT FINDING or CLARIFICATION
. . . . . .? . . . . . . of your two statements below
So the battery does charge but because of the popped fuse it doesn't charge the camera. (my 1st question of contention.)
So the input fuse is fine. ( I can fully agree on that aspect. )
That white fuse is the culprit which could also involve other components triggering the short right? (my 2nd question of contention.)

So the battery does charge but because of the popped fuse it doesn't charge the camera. (my 1st question of contention.)
Need to change it doesn't charge the camera to . . . . . . .It is no longer able to supply actual sole running power to the camera.
Because I see the adapter as having a two section power supply, one section is solely dedicated to just recharging a plugged in battery and a second section of it which is solely dedicated to just providing a 16.5 VDC to the RUNNING of the camera at up to a 4.5A max drain . . . . for as long as you have AC line power coming in and powered on.


That white fuse is the culprit which could also involve other components triggering the short right? (my 2nd question of contention.)
That was what I was delving to find out . . . . but you ignored my CRITICAL query of " will the camera run normally if you disconnect completely from the adapter and plug in a FULLY charged battery" . . . . considering that the adapter fully charged that battery and then with that battery plugged into the camera, that all is well in fully functioning then. (Then we don't worry that a malfunctioning camera pulled excessive power from the 2nd supply's running power and blew the fuse.

Now if you have confirmed a fully hot and charged battery by referring to the LCD built in RUNNING TIME display on the battery side, take it and disconnect the Anton/Bauer Tandem-70 On-Camera AC Power/Charger unit and attempt plugging in that charged battery to see if all works normally on the camera.
Time for some visual information feedback to me, specifically on the battery pack(s) that you have / use. I see a triad arrangement of 3 brass or gold flashed contact wafers that drop down into and then slide lock and latch into the 3 recessed holes that you see in my #2 posts photo.
I am curious for the need of the 3rd post, unless that it is being used as a mechanical, non wired, mechanical balancing element, as using solely two connections could mechanically wobble.
Can you take a voltmeter in its DC voltage function and ascertain the hot voltage connections being found, and if actually there is only being two electrical connections.. . . . . with one dummy mechanical unit.


ACCUMULATING THE FINDINGS . . . . (My photos placed below negate the need of the just prior BLUE highlighted textual query)

If you found the camera operating totally normally with battery power, it likely was not the cause of the fuse blowing.
leaving us with the next two considerations .
With a standard fuse used long time and used upwards of its rating, its link can "sag" and actually blow on its own. You replace it with a new unit and all is being well again.
The other potential situation is being an actual problem in that second power section that feeds the camera, now its output has to pass thru that fuse to get running power to the camera.
So with a previously confirmed properly functioning camera it would logically be a fault of that second power supply source. Since its power- to fuse- to camera.

INFORMATION INSERT . . . .
1695429170152.png
In seeing this adapter plate for accommodating another completely different battery type into the Anton Bauer system. It confirms how power gets into your camera . . . . NOT thru my earlier mentioned mounts, but instead, thru the two gold flashed male banana connectors, with the battery snap release tab being closest to the +banana terminal. Then, with this adapter the optional use of either the highlighted insets HIGH current connector or connecting battery in with the pair of flying wires.

That only left me wondering how the video camera electro mechanically interfaced into the camera back. Since my post #2 photos revealed neither the left side of the battery and the left side of that adapter !!! #$%

NOW ANSWERED . . . .

1695433278320.png

Plus that particular JVC camera only uses 12V at 2 amps . . .so that is being a smart use of a 16.5 V initial full charge on the battery and a gradual pull down to or< at its final 12V state of charge.

SO O O O O O O O now if you have found no fault in the camera, by operation solely with a battery pack.
I am wanting to think that the second power supply responsible with solely operating the camera by itself has developed fault.
With it either feeding unfiltered/ or inadequately filtered high frequency pulsating DC to your camera . . . . . which would appear as a short to the supply and pop the interconnecting fuse.
Or r r r r r r r a degrading and decline of the main filter caps on that secondary supply, such that with initial inadequate filtering to make pure DC, it is then wanting to use whatever capacitance that is being . . . down line . . . . across the DC line of that cameras internal 12 VDC filtering capacitors . . . . thus pulling excess current thru that series fuse and popping it.

1st . . .nearly for free . . . . troubleshooting tip . . . . . without the wait time or expense of initially having to buy one of those special SM fuses.
Is to get yourself a conventional glass sight window cased 7 amp "wire" link fast blowing fuse in the large size unless opting for the mini size.
BELOW . . .

1695435322426.png
Now either of the two left units are what you want in a 7A unit. Voltage has already been clarified to you as being a maximum upper limit spec.
There are the optional straight wire fast blowing and the variant of a tensioned accordian link.
The 4 right side fuses . . . no-no's . . . . are variant of procedures in getting slow blowing action . . . . pity the DOOFUS that thinks that is REALLY a 4.3k value of resistor with its one heating end encased into a pellet of woods metal . . . . . overall, its then being spring loaded.

TAKING CARE IF BUSINESS . . . . .

So that there will be no chance of a neophytes technical expertise in soldering be a factor in soldering to a conventional glass fuse in converting it into a pig tail unit. Lets instead, select one fuse end cap and take an adequately gauged length of hook up wire of say . .6 inches length ? . . .
and that wire proper being of, or greater diameter than a standard metal paper clip, will meet the 7A current carrying capability.
Bare about 3/4 inch of that wire and make an end wrap around of that fuse cap and depend upon MANY tight overwinds of sewing thread or dental floss, knotted off, to thereby mechanically bind it into connection.
Repeat for the other end cap with the same wire treatment.
Take the unused wire ends and strip tips to ~1/8 in of bare wire and then solder tin them.
Now move ye olde tyme makeshift / ersatz "pigtail" fuse to the 7A SM in unit and solder across the . . . . 7 A SM fuse. . . .(LEAVE IN PLACE) . . . . .
Tape on the new fuse externally to the case and move the charge cluster . . . with no battery . . . to connect into the camera.
Power up . . . to expect . . . .
1 . . . . Normal operation of the camera . . . . . . . . thereby faulting . . . . time related " Fuse sag syndrome" . . . . . then get and merely replace the 7A fast blow SM fuse.
2 . . . . The popping of that substituted fast blow fuse . . . . . like a flashbulb. . . . .suggests a problem in the secondary power supply of that adapter as is needed to be confirmed with further troubleshooting.

Awaiting your comeback . . . . . . .
EatingPopcorn.jpg



73's de Edd

MY FINDING . . .

Banks should do a better job of keeping their ATM's filled. This is the fifth one I've been to that says Insufficient Funds.


.
 
Last edited:

gica69

Feb 8, 2017
28
Joined
Feb 8, 2017
Messages
28
Sorry about the explanation above. Yes the camera works fine with a battery. The only issue is the gold mount side of the charger it doesnot deliver power to the camera as you said.
 

gica69

Feb 8, 2017
28
Joined
Feb 8, 2017
Messages
28
Sir gica69 . . . . . . . . .

If using your Mouser choice, that is being a SLOW blow fuse, so re research and filter for being a fast blow unit.

FAULT FINDING or CLARIFICATION
. . . . . .? . . . . . . of your two statements below
So the battery does charge but because of the popped fuse it doesn't charge the camera. (my 1st question of contention.)
So the input fuse is fine. ( I can fully agree on that aspect. )
That white fuse is the culprit which could also involve other components triggering the short right? (my 2nd question of contention.)

So the battery does charge but because of the popped fuse it doesn't charge the camera. (my 1st question of contention.)
Need to change it doesn't charge the camera to . . . . . . .It is no longer able to supply actual sole running power to the camera.
Because I see the adapter as having a two section power supply, one section is solely dedicated to just recharging a plugged in battery and a second section of it which is solely dedicated to just providing a 16.5 VDC to the RUNNING of the camera at up to a 4.5A max drain . . . . for as long as you have AC line power coming in and powered on.


That white fuse is the culprit which could also involve other components triggering the short right? (my 2nd question of contention.)
That was what I was delving to find out . . . . but you ignored my CRITICAL query of " will the camera run normally if you disconnect completely from the adapter and plug in a FULLY charged battery" . . . . considering that the adapter fully charged that battery and then with that battery plugged into the camera, that all is well in fully functioning then. (Then we don't worry that a malfunctioning camera pulled excessive power from the 2nd supply's running power and blew the fuse.

Now if you have confirmed a fully hot and charged battery by referring to the LCD built in RUNNING TIME display on the battery side, take it and disconnect the Anton/Bauer Tandem-70 On-Camera AC Power/Charger unit and attempt plugging in that charged battery to see if all works normally on the camera.
Time for some visual information feedback to me, specifically on the battery pack(s) that you have / use. I see a triad arrangement of 3 brass or gold flashed contact wafers that drop down into and then slide lock and latch into the 3 recessed holes that you see in my #2 posts photo.
I am curious for the need of the 3rd post, unless that it is being used as a mechanical, non wired, mechanical balancing element, as using solely two connections could mechanically wobble.
Can you take a voltmeter in its DC voltage function and ascertain the hot voltage connections being found, and if actually there is only being two electrical connections.. . . . . with one dummy mechanical unit.


ACCUMULATING THE FINDINGS . . . . (My photos placed below negate the need of the just prior BLUE highlighted textual query)

If you found the camera operating totally normally with battery power, it likely was not the cause of the fuse blowing.
leaving us with the next two considerations .
With a standard fuse used long time and used upwards of its rating, its link can "sag" and actually blow on its own. You replace it with a new unit and all is being well again.
The other potential situation is being an actual problem in that second power section that feeds the camera, now its output has to pass thru that fuse to get running power to the camera.
So with a previously confirmed properly functioning camera it would logically be a fault of that second power supply source. Since its power- to fuse- to camera.

INFORMATION INSERT . . . .
View attachment 60825
In seeing this adapter plate for accommodating another completely different battery type into the Anton Bauer system. It confirms how power gets into your camera . . . . NOT thru my earlier mentioned mounts, but instead, thru the two gold flashed male banana connectors, with the battery snap release tab being closest to the +banana terminal. Then, with this adapter the optional use of either the highlighted insets HIGH current connector or connecting battery in with the pair of flying wires.

That only left me wondering how the video camera electro mechanically interfaced into the camera back. Since my post #2 photos revealed neither the left side of the battery and the left side of that adapter !!! #$%

NOW ANSWERED . . . .
View attachment 60830

Plus that particular JVC camera only uses 12V at 2 amps . . .so that is being a smart use of a 16.5 V initial full charge on the battery and a gradual pull down to< or at its final 12V state of charge.

SO O O O O O O O now if you have found no fault in the camera, by operation solely with a battery pack.
I am wanting to think that the second power supply responsible with solely operating the camera by itself has developed fault.
With it either feeding unfiltered/ or inadequately filtered high frequency pulsating DC to your camera . . . . . which would appear as a short to the supply and pop the interconnecting fuse.
Or r r r r r r r a degrading and decline of the main filter caps on that secondary supply, such that with initial inadequate filtering to make pure DC, it is then wanting to use whatever capacitance that is being . . . down line . . . . across the DC line of that cameras internal 12 VDC filtering capacitors . . . . thus pulling excess current thru that series fuse and popping it.

1st . . .nearly for free . . . . troubleshooting tip . . . . . without the wait time or expense of initially having to buy one of those special SM fuses.
Is to get yourself a conventional glass sight window cased 7 amp "wire" link fast blowing fuse in the large size unless opting for the mini size.
BELOW . . .

View attachment 60831
Now either of the two left units are what you want in a 7A unit. Voltage has already been clarified to you as being a maximum upper limit spec.
There are the optional straight wire fast blowing and the variant of a tensioned accordian link.
The 4 right side fuses . . . no-no's . . . . are variant of procedures in getting slow blowing action . . . . pity the DOOFUS that thinks that is REALLY a 4.3k value of resistor with its one heating end encased into a pellet of woods metal . . . . . overall, its then being spring loaded.

TAKING CARE IF BUSINESS . . . . .

So that there will be no chance of a neophytes technical expertise in soldering be a factor in soldering to a conventional glass fuse in converting it into a pig tail unit. Lets instead, select one fuse end cap and take an adequately gauged length of hook up wire of say . .6 inches length ? . . .
and that wire proper being of, or greater diameter than a standard metal paper clip, will meet the 7A current carrying capability.
Bare about 3/4 inch of that wire and make an end wrap around of that fuse cap and depend upon MANY tight overwinds of sewing thread or dental floss, knotted off. to mechanically bind it into connection.
Repeat for the other end cap with the same wire treatment.
Take the unused wire ends and strip tips to ~1/8 in of bare wire and then solder tin them.
Now move ye olde tyme makeshift / ersatz "pigtail" fuse to the 7A SM in unit and solder across the . . . . 7 A SM fuse. . . .(LEAVE IN PLACE) . . . . .
Tape on the new fuse externally to the case and move the charge cluster . . . with no battery . . . to connect into the camera.
Power up . . . to expect . . . .
1 . . . . Normal operation of the camera . . . . . . . . thereby faulting . . . . time related " Fuse sag syndrome" . . . . . then get and merely replace the 7A fast blow SM fuse.
2 . . . . The popping of that substituted fast blow fuse . . . . . like a flashbulb. . . . .suggests a problem in the secondary power supply of that adapter as is needed to be confirmed with further troubleshooting.

Awaiting your comeback . . . . . . .
EatingPopcorn.jpg



73's de Edd

MY FINDING . . .

Banks should do a better job of keeping their ATM's filled. This is the fifth one I've been to that says Insufficient Funds.


.
73's de Edd you sir are at a level that greatly exceeds mine in both explaining the issue and also fixing it, and that is why I appreciate the patience. I am not a novice per say on this but my rendering of information was terrible, am so sorry about that. This battery came to my friend's shop from a client that mentioned the Anton Bauer is not working when plugged into his camera and an electric outlet as it should. The battery side of it shows 100% charge through the LCD window you mentioned. So I opened it up, did some novice tracing and it led me to the black and red wires next to the white fuse. There is no power on the red wire, there is power on one side of the white F3 fuse but not the other.
I will look for a box of mini fuses I bought a while ago I do believe there are fuses rated up to 10A.
I will find the 7A one and solder it in place. The unit is at the shop so I will do it on Monday. I am doing this as a favor for my friend so I appreciate the assistance.
Don't know if it is the fuse sag syndrome or another issue as you mentioned but I don't have the camera to test. I will see if there is anything that can use the 3 gold mounts on the Bauer unit. Those have no power they just snap on to the female side of whatever compatible device, which is usually plastic.
Thanks again.
 
Last edited:

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
3,636
Joined
Aug 21, 2015
Messages
3,636
Sir @gica69 . . . . . . . . .

A CONTINUANCE . . . . .


Relating to . . .you saying . . . .
So I opened it up, . . . . . . thank goodness for the relative ease of internal access to circuitry !

did some novice tracing and it led me to the black and red wires next to the white fuse. There is no power on the red wire, there is power on one side of the white F3 fuse but not the other.

Using your post #1 photos and zeroing in on the one with the most overall reveal . . . #---6952.
I highly perceive of the vertically routed left BLACK and right RED wires as going back to connect to the banana plug/jack power connections that feed running power into the camera proper..
If being bad, the suspect main second power supply filter capacitor. . .(with the additional possibility of a like pair or even 3) is the blue E- can with visible marking of 22?? (00) ufd
and 35V DC ratings markings on it . . . I believe a NIPPON trade mark crest is marked on it on 2 places vertically and I hope you read a 105 degree temp rating on it some wheres. Visually you might verify if it has a pooched up swelling or has split its X pressure relief indentations on its top aluminum end cap.
Same applies, if there are being those possible side by side companions.
Initial power comes from that E-cap and travels to the left to that DECIMAL 025 ohm series current sense monitoring resistor and then on to the right side of the F3 fuse and then, the other side of the fuse going to the RED wire . You did not give the voltage read on your test. But presently we don't additionally know of the absolute DC purity of that voltage ( ?ripple level content ?)

Info to be acquired on the back burner if needed is to take that #11 Exacto blade and slice that black silicone rubber blob that is adhered between the face side of that TO-220 cased transistor ? and the AC input power socket. Slice /Cut loose from the bond to the AC socket side and see if it will peel off the device. Then provide its identification, also as well as the more visually accessible, other TO-220 one over on the small heat sink.
Wouldn't hurt for all of the markings of the circled ON semi SM zener Z1, located just left corner front of the heat sink. . . only seeing E and ?EV?


BLOW-UP . . . . .#---6952.

1695465464970.png

Also in further testing . . . . is a vehicles 12v Turn/Stop bulb being in your home stash ? . . . or loanable / pullable?
Seems ~ 60 yrs ago they started as a 57 and then basing changes upped them to 1057 numbering and later 2057 and 3057 and currently at 4057 with w folded wire leads configuration.
Purpose . . . .to be used as a dynamic load.

Thaaaaaaaaaaaaaaasssit . . . . .fer' now . . . . pending your updating . . . .

73's de Edd . . . . .

I just blocked SPELL CHECK from correcting my forum spelling . . . . . and it feelded great.


.
 

gica69

Feb 8, 2017
28
Joined
Feb 8, 2017
Messages
28
Sir @gica69 . . . . . . . . .

A CONTINUANCE . . . . .


Relating to . . .you saying . . . .
So I opened it up, . . . . . . thank goodness for the relative ease of internal access to circuitry !

did some novice tracing and it led me to the black and red wires next to the white fuse. There is no power on the red wire, there is power on one side of the white F3 fuse but not the other.

Using your post #1 photos and zeroing in on the one with the most overall reveal . . . #---6952.
I highly perceive of the vertically routed left BLACK and right RED wires as going back to connect to the banana plug/jack power connections that feed running power into the camera proper..
If being bad, the suspect main second power supply filter capacitor. . .(with the additional possibility of a like pair or even 3) is the blue E- can with visible marking of 22?? (00) ufd
and 35V DC ratings markings on it . . . I believe a NIPPON trade mark crest is marked on it on 2 places vertically and I hope you read a 105 degree temp rating on it some wheres. Visually you might verify if it has a pooched up swelling or has split its X pressure relief indentations on its top aluminum end cap.
Same applies, if there are being those possible side by side companions.
Initial power comes from that E-cap and travels to the left to that DECIMAL 025 ohm series current sense monitoring resistor and then on to the right side of the F3 fuse and then, the other side of the fuse going to the RED wire . You did not give the voltage read on your test. But presently we don't additionally know of the absolute DC purity of that voltage ( ?ripple level content ?)

Info to be acquired on the back burner if needed is to take that #11 Exacto blade and slice that black silicone rubber blob that is adhered between the face side of that TO-220 cased transistor ? and the AC input power socket. Slice /Cut loose from the bond to the AC socket side and see if it will peel off the device. Then provide its identification, also as well as the more visually accessible, other TO-220 one over on the small heat sink.
Wouldn't hurt for all of the markings of the circled ON semi SM zener Z1, located just left corner front of the heat sink. . . only seeing E and ?EV?


BLOW-UP . . . . .#---6952.

View attachment 60835

Also in further testing . . . . is a vehicles 12v Turn/Stop bulb being in your home stash ? . . . or loanable / pullable?
Seems ~ 60 yrs ago they started as a 57 and then basing changes upped them to 1057 numbering and later 2057 and 3057 and currently at 4057 with w folded wire leads configuration.
Purpose . . . .to be used as a dynamic load.

Thaaaaaaaaaaaaaaasssit . . . . .fer' now . . . . pending your updating . . . .

73's de Edd . . . . .

I just blocked SPELL CHECK from correcting my forum spelling . . . . . and it feelded great.


.
Hello sorry for the late response wanted to tell you that I did replace the burned fuse and it ended up working on the camera.
It held up well with no issues.
I do have another 4 battery charger charger that is half broken and wanted to get an opinion on it. Posted it here. Thanks in advance for your time.
[mod edit: link removed after merging the post with this thread]
 
Last edited by a moderator:

gica69

Feb 8, 2017
28
Joined
Feb 8, 2017
Messages
28
As the title says it is an Anton Bauer 26V and upon turning it on one side has the red and green lights blinking. It is supposed to supply 20V intermittently and it only does it for 30 seconds at the end of which the stay solid and the intermittent supply of 16 to 20 V ends. Both the red and green lights stay on.
I will include pictures of the board and show what I already did to diagnose.
First picture shows the main board. The bottom part is the part with the issue Batterie 1 and 3.
Second picture shows the solid red and green after they stopped blinking.
3rd picture shows a close up of the side that has the problem and on the left you can probably see that I removed the capacitor C192 next to Battery 3 black plug because there was a short across it. Now when I test with the capacitor off it shows 136ohms across, give or take. The good side shows OL.Tested most of the components in diode mode and compared to the side that is working and still charging and they seem to be ok.
Next to the capacitor there are 3 other components that test fine and there is a chip that has 4DH written on it and it is shown in picture 4 and picture 5. In picture 4 there is a little damage to the 4DH component and I am not sure if I caused it or it got that way from failure.
In picture 4 from right to left the 2nd and 3rd legs of 4DH show continuity to the respective removed capacitor connections points and between ×legs 2 and 3 the measure is also around 136ohms and it is supposed to be OL.
The other connector below this one that shows Battery 1 is also malfunctioning. Same tests show 273ohms give or take and it also is supposed to be OL.
My question is what is the 4DH chip and can that be the culprit?
As usual thanks in advance for the help.
 

Attachments

  • 20231029_231514.jpg
    20231029_231514.jpg
    275.4 KB · Views: 6
  • 20231029_230519.jpg
    20231029_230519.jpg
    182.9 KB · Views: 6
  • 20231029_230722.jpg
    20231029_230722.jpg
    221.9 KB · Views: 6
  • 20231029_221452.jpg
    20231029_221452.jpg
    175.2 KB · Views: 6
  • 20231025_165358.jpg
    20231025_165358.jpg
    139.5 KB · Views: 6

gica69

Feb 8, 2017
28
Joined
Feb 8, 2017
Messages
28
Can that cause both Battery 1 and 3 to malfunction? If so what is 4DH
or U38?
 

Delta Prime

Jul 29, 2020
2,115
Joined
Jul 29, 2020
Messages
2,115
Can that cause both Battery 1 and 3 to malfunction? If so what is 4DH
or U38?
I cannot tell you for certain.
My experiences is limited I am on the back side of 20 years old. I could be wrong; products and circuits are proprietary and protected only as a trade secret.putting "in-house numbers" on integrated circuits will make it much more difficult to reverse-engineer the component at fault and or for internal tracking purposes of the manufacturer making the product.
If component becomes obsolete it could still be referenced but it won't be stuck in a (BOM) Bill Of Materials. You will not have to make a revision of the schematic. It can be very confusing that's the whole point.
It's called Obfuscation: Making something obscure, unclear.
You have have to send the product back to them to make repairs or buy another one.
That's what I would do!
So some hobbiest won't have a clue?
;)
 

gica69

Feb 8, 2017
28
Joined
Feb 8, 2017
Messages
28
Ok thanks maybe somebody else can recognize the 4DH and know what it is a semiconductor or something else. If it truely is proprietary then it explains why I cannot find it. Should be an IC.
 

Delta Prime

Jul 29, 2020
2,115
Joined
Jul 29, 2020
Messages
2,115
Ok thanks maybe somebody else can recognize the 4DH and know what it is a semiconductor or something else
Yes of course that would be wonderful.
Can that cause both Battery 1 and 3 to malfunction? If so what is 4DH
or U38?
Well I have an idea if it's one in three malfunctioning and clearly the 4DH chip is destroyed then what about two and four perhaps there could be another 4DH chip?
A long shot I know just throwing it out there.
 

gica69

Feb 8, 2017
28
Joined
Feb 8, 2017
Messages
28
Yeah I have another one of these chargers where there is only one that blinks. I have not tested them yet. So you could he right that they are all independent but they do have a main controller chip seen in the first 2 pictures. That coupd also be the culprit. Maybe.
 
Top