Sir gica69 . . . . . . . . .
If using your Mouser choice, that is being a SLOW blow fuse, so re research and filter for being a fast blow unit.
FAULT FINDING or CLARIFICATION . . . . . .? . . . . . . of your two statements below
So the battery does charge but because of the popped fuse it doesn't charge the camera. (my 1st question of contention.)
So the input fuse is fine. ( I can fully agree on that aspect. )
That white fuse is the culprit which could also involve other components triggering the short right? (my 2nd question of contention.)
So the battery does charge but because of the popped fuse it doesn't charge the camera. (my 1st question of contention.)
Need to change
it doesn't charge the camera to . . . . . . .It is no longer able to supply actual sole running power to the camera.
Because I see the adapter as having a two section power supply, one section is solely dedicated to just recharging a plugged in battery and a second section of it which is solely dedicated to just providing a 16.5 VDC to the RUNNING of the camera at up to a 4.5A max drain . . . . for as long as you have AC line power coming in and powered on.
That white fuse is the culprit which could also involve other components triggering the short right? (my 2nd question of contention.)
That was what I was delving to find out . . . . but you ignored my CRITICAL query of " will the camera run normally if you disconnect completely from the adapter and plug in a FULLY charged battery" . . . . considering that the adapter fully charged that battery and then with that battery plugged into the camera, that all is well in fully functioning then. (Then we don't worry that a malfunctioning camera pulled excessive power from the 2nd supply's running power and blew the fuse.
Now if you have confirmed a fully hot and charged battery by referring to the LCD built in RUNNING TIME display on the battery side, take it and disconnect the Anton/Bauer Tandem-70 On-Camera AC Power/Charger unit and attempt plugging in that charged battery to see if all works normally on the camera.
Time for some visual information feedback to me, specifically on the battery pack(s) that you have / use. I see a triad arrangement of 3 brass or gold flashed contact wafers that drop down into and then slide lock and latch into the 3 recessed holes that you see in my #2 posts photo.
I am curious for the need of the 3rd post, unless that it is being used as a mechanical, non wired, mechanical balancing element, as using solely two connections could mechanically wobble.
Can you take a voltmeter in its DC voltage function and ascertain the hot voltage connections being found, and if actually there is only being two electrical connections.. . . . . with one dummy mechanical unit.
ACCUMULATING THE FINDINGS . . . . (My photos placed below negate the need of the just prior BLUE highlighted textual query)
If you found the camera operating totally normally with battery power, it likely was not the cause of the fuse blowing.
leaving us with the next two considerations .
With a standard fuse used long time and used upwards of its rating, its link can "sag" and actually blow on its own. You replace it with a new unit and all is being well again.
The other potential situation is being an actual problem in that second power section that feeds the camera, now its output has to pass thru that fuse to get running power to the camera.
So with a previously confirmed properly functioning camera it would logically be a fault of that second power supply source. Since its power- to fuse- to camera.
INFORMATION INSERT . . . .
View attachment 60825
In seeing this adapter plate for accommodating another completely different battery type into the Anton Bauer system. It confirms how power gets into your camera . . . .
NOT thru my earlier mentioned mounts, but instead, thru the two gold flashed male banana connectors, with the battery snap release tab being closest to the +banana terminal. Then, with this adapter the optional use of either the highlighted insets HIGH current connector or connecting battery in with the pair of flying wires.
That only left me wondering how the video camera electro mechanically interfaced into the camera back. Since my post #2 photos revealed neither the left side of the battery and the left side of that adapter !!! #$%
NOW ANSWERED . . . .
View attachment 60830
Plus that particular JVC camera only uses 12V at 2 amps . . .so that is being a smart use of a 16.5 V initial full charge on the battery and a gradual pull down to< or at its final 12V state of charge.
SO O O O O O O O now if you have found no fault in the camera, by operation solely with a battery pack.
I am wanting to think that the second power supply responsible with solely operating the camera by itself has developed fault.
With it either feeding unfiltered/ or inadequately filtered high frequency pulsating DC to your camera . . . . . which would appear as a short to the supply and pop the interconnecting fuse.
Or r r r r r r r a degrading and decline of the main filter caps on that secondary supply, such that with initial inadequate filtering to make pure DC, it is then wanting to use whatever capacitance that is being . . . down line . . . . across the DC line of that cameras internal 12 VDC filtering capacitors . . . . thus pulling excess current thru that series fuse and popping it.
1st . . .nearly for free . . . . troubleshooting tip . . . . . without the wait time or expense of initially having to buy one of those special SM fuses.
Is to get yourself a conventional glass sight window cased 7 amp "wire" link fast blowing fuse in the large size unless opting for the mini size.
BELOW . . .
View attachment 60831
Now either of the two left units are what you want in a 7A unit. Voltage has already been clarified to you as being a maximum upper limit spec.
There are the optional straight wire fast blowing and the variant of a tensioned accordian link.
The 4 right side fuses . . . no-no's . . . . are variant of procedures in getting slow blowing action . . . . pity the
DOOFUS that thinks that is REALLY a 4.3k value of resistor with its one heating end encased into a pellet of woods metal . . . . . overall, its then being spring loaded.
TAKING CARE IF BUSINESS . . . . .
So that there will be no chance of a neophytes technical expertise in soldering be a factor in soldering to a conventional glass fuse in converting it into a pig tail unit. Lets instead, select one fuse end cap and take an adequately gauged length of hook up wire of say . .6 inches length ? . . .
and that wire proper being of, or greater diameter than a standard metal paper clip, will meet the 7A current carrying capability.
Bare about 3/4 inch of that wire and make an end wrap around of that fuse cap and depend upon MANY tight overwinds of sewing thread or dental floss, knotted off. to mechanically bind it into connection.
Repeat for the other end cap with the same wire treatment.
Take the unused wire ends and strip tips to ~1/8 in of bare wire and then solder tin them.
Now move ye olde tyme makeshift / ersatz "pigtail" fuse to the 7A SM in unit and solder across the . . . . 7 A SM fuse. . . .(LEAVE IN PLACE) . . . . .
Tape on the new fuse externally to the case and move the charge cluster . . . with no battery . . . to connect into the camera.
Power up . . . to expect . . . .
1 . . . . Normal operation of the camera . . . . . . . . thereby faulting . . . . time related " Fuse sag syndrome" . . . . . then get and merely replace the 7A fast blow SM fuse.
2 . . . . The popping of that substituted fast blow fuse . . . . . like a flashbulb. . . . .suggests a problem in the secondary power supply of that adapter as is needed to be confirmed with further troubleshooting.
Awaiting your comeback . . . . . . .
73's de Edd
MY FINDING . . .
Banks should do a better job of keeping their ATM's filled. This is the fifth one I've been to that says Insufficient Funds.
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