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Deadbolt indicator

D

David Humpherys

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hi All,

I'm very much a beginner in the electronics area, but I've been playing around with resistors, led's and batteries - so I understand those basics.

Now I want to apply what I've learned!

I want to make a indicator LED light when the deadbolt to my door is locked.
I've made a (ugly) graphic to show what I'm thinking.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1W-vn7UR5Zp9vrNA-jE2Sqf2b7B553QGO7qQP3qor9EY/edit?usp=sharing

The basic idea is that the deadbolt closes the circuit.
What I don't know is how to create and attach the connectors to the door jam.
Is there any circuit pieces like this i could start from?
What do i need to do to make it safe?
Do I need to attach a small plate to the end of the deadbolt to properly close the loop?

Thanks for any help!
 
T

Tom Biasi

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hi All,

I'm very much a beginner in the electronics area, but I've been playing around with resistors, led's and batteries - so I understand those basics.

Now I want to apply what I've learned!

I want to make a indicator LED light when the deadbolt to my door is locked.
I've made a (ugly) graphic to show what I'm thinking.

https://docs.google.com/document/d/1W-vn7UR5Zp9vrNA-jE2Sqf2b7B553QGO7qQP3qor9EY/edit?usp=sharing

The basic idea is that the deadbolt closes the circuit.
What I don't know is how to create and attach the connectors to the door jam.
Is there any circuit pieces like this i could start from?
What do i need to do to make it safe?
Do I need to attach a small plate to the end of the deadbolt to properly close the loop?

Thanks for any help!
You would be better off not to let the dead bolt make the connection.
The bolt could push a micro-switch or activate something else that would
close a circuit.

Tom
 
D

David Humpherys

Jan 1, 1970
0
You would be better off not to let the dead bolt make the connection.
The bolt could push a micro-switch or activate something else that would
close a circuit.

Thanks Tom,
Do you have any recommendations for a micro-switch that would work for this type of thing?
 
M

Mr. Man-wai Chang

Jan 1, 1970
0
You would be better off not to let the dead bolt make the connection.
The bolt could push a micro-switch or activate something else that would
close a circuit.

You don't really need a switch. You could re-arrange the two pieces of
metal stripes like this:

| Bent stripe
|
\ +-------
/ \ |
| | <-- LOCK
| +--------

When the lock was turned anti-clockwise, the two metal stripes would
touch each other, completing the LED circuit.

--
@~@ Remain silent. Nothing from soldiers and magicians is real!
/ v \ Simplicity is Beauty! May the Force and farces be with you!
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T

Tom Biasi

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thanks Tom,
Do you have any recommendations for a micro-switch that would work for this type of thing?
Look for one with some travel play in the activating, this way you can
make contact and still have room to push some more and not damage the
switch.
Tom
 
P

Phil Hobbs

Jan 1, 1970
0
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?
productId=2049718&numProdsPerPage=60

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?
productId=2049719&numProdsPerPage=60

Finding a way to mount the switch is going to be a challenge -- you want
to have a lot of leeway for where the deadbolt ends up, while still
reliably actuating the switch. So an arrangement that either lets the
switch be actuated by the side of the deadbolt as it enters its pocket,
or that has a long spring on the switch, is probably best.

Mess with it. These electromechanical projects always end up being more
mechanical than electrical in the end.

A magnet glued to the end of the deadbolt, and a Hall sensor in the door
jamb would get my vote.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net
 
D

David Humpherys

Jan 1, 1970
0
I get what your saying. Thank you for the mention.
Any idea where I would get this type of material ?
And how would I attach it to the wood without saftey problems?

Totally understand it might not be as good as a production switch.
 
D

David Humpherys

Jan 1, 1970
0
Mess with it. These electromechanical projects always end up being more
mechanical than electrical in the end.

Thanks for the links Tim.
you're right - i need to pull the door trim off and see what sort of space i have to deal with, then figure out what the area of impact would be.

is there some technical jargon that notates at what point the stitch turns on?
In other words, when the bolt connects to the switch and starts pushing, how far does a switch have to push to actually close the loop. Is there a word for that?

Thanks for the help!
 
D

David Humpherys

Jan 1, 1970
0
A magnet glued to the end of the deadbolt, and a Hall sensor in the door
jamb would get my vote.


Thanks Phil - a totally different solution i didn't know existed. and a cheap one at that.

I'd have to find a thin magnet so that it didn't interfere with the door opening-closing. something like this might work.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8644

thanks for all the help everyone!!!
 
T

Tom Biasi

Jan 1, 1970
0
Agree, if he going the magnet route. Which I think is a viable solution.
Rat Shack has magnet/switch pairs pretty cheap.


Tom
 
P

Phil Hobbs

Jan 1, 1970
0
That's true, but (a) it's a lot less sensitive, so it would have to be
right up against the magnet, and (b) it's made of glass, so it would be
vulnerable to breakage if somebody slammed the door, or was working on
the hinges, or....

Besides, the OP sounds like he wants to learn some electronics.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs



--
Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
ElectroOptical Innovations LLC
Optics, Electro-optics, Photonics, Analog Electronics

160 North State Road #203
Briarcliff Manor NY 10510 USA
+1 845 480 2058

hobbs at electrooptical dot net
http://electrooptical.net
 
D

David Humpherys

Jan 1, 1970
0
One type stays on until the
magnetic field is reversed, the other stays on only while the magnetic
field is present.

Eric, this was going to be my question with any of these sensors.
Hall or Reed - are they binary? If not, how do I dial in the LED to only turn on at a certain point?

I'm very much into the idea of using a true switch vs a make shift one - with either I will learn a practical application. I just got into this whole hobby thru arduino - but when I went to solve my problem, i realized I don't need to use that much tech - a simple circuit will do.

@john - I've looked at a few reed switches online, and it isn't immediatly clear to me how i might situate it within the jam.
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/8644
Could I just run it vertically near the hole where the bolt goes? and if the magnet is too strong or too weak, is there a way to adjust it?

Thanks to you all - these are some great suggestions and I'm learning a bunch.!
 
T

Tom Biasi

Jan 1, 1970
0
Physically parallel, electrically in series when they contact
deadbolt.

...Jim Thompson

perhaps Jim,
If he wants to "MacGyver" everything. I would like to see him make use
of readily available products but the who am I?

Tom
 
G

George Herold

Jan 1, 1970
0
A magnet glued to the end of the deadbolt, and a Hall sensor in the door

jamb would get my vote.

That was my thought.. well magnet and reed relay.

George H.
 
R

RobertMacy

Jan 1, 1970
0
A magnet glued to the end of the deadbolt, and a Hall sensor in the door
jamb would get my vote.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

magnetic security switch is built for this AND looks decent.
 
D

David Humpherys

Jan 1, 1970
0
I have a tilt-switch gimmick on my garage doors that, by RF, talks to
a display on my desk.

Jim, I'd be interested in knowing what parts you used for this. Garage doors are in the big picture too. Sounds cool.
Once I tackle the actual cicuit I'll need to figure out how I want to get the message to someplace usefull in my house. :)
 
B

Bob Masta

Jan 1, 1970
0
---
Nope.

Neodymium Boron Iron magnets are insanely strong, and reed switches
easily succumb to their fields, at a distance.

I don't think you need anything too fancy in the magnet
department. Back in the early '70s when electronic fuel
injection was just getting started, Cadillac (my employer)
used two reed switches mounted on either side of the
distributor shaft to pick up RPM and timing info. Dunno
about the magnets, but I don't think they were anything
special, even back then.

Best regards,


Bob Masta

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M

Mr. Man-wai Chang

Jan 1, 1970
0
How about two springs, parallel. The deadbolt pushes up against both
of them. The springs could be inside drilled holes in the door frame.

I was also thinking about adding a spring to the upper stripe in my
diagram so that it could bounce back better...

Anyway, I have never done this kind of mod. :)

--
@~@ Remain silent. Nothing from soldiers and magicians is real!
/ v \ Simplicity is Beauty! May the Force and farces be with you!
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M

Mr. Man-wai Chang

Jan 1, 1970
0
Now I want to apply what I've learned!
I want to make a indicator LED light when the deadbolt to my door is locked.
I've made a (ugly) graphic to show what I'm thinking.

BTW, don't turn that design into a IED (bomb)! :)


--
@~@ Remain silent. Nothing from soldiers and magicians is real!
/ v \ Simplicity is Beauty! May the Force and farces be with you!
/( _ )\ (Fedora 19 i686) Linux 3.10.10-200.fc19.i686
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