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Digital Tire Inflator unusable because of a spring/switch issue

Karthik316_1999

Apr 4, 2016
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Hello All,

Feels good to post my very first thread and I must say I'm all excited to get my faulty equipment running again !

Device - A digital car tire inflator.

155469e.jpg


Image of the device when opened up

ca4af2d.jpg


Nature of fault - I'm unable to get the compressor running continuously owing to a faulty power on/off switch that I strongly believe is the culprit ? I'm also sure there is no overload/trip/blown fuse issue as the device/compressor runs-stops-runs-stops depending on the position of the ON/OFF switch which is actually a Push button switch. I just cannot get the switch to stay in the ON position once pressed / it gets stuck somewhere in between ON/OFF.

History of fault - All was well until I had stashed some heavy luggage on top of the unit which was kept in the car's boot (with its front operating buttons facing upwards)

Actions unspecified in the manual - Nil. Except that I have opened the post warranty product now to get it repaired !

Anything wrong that I noticed inside the device - No, as far as I know

Actions taken - I have opened the case and sort of studied the insides. Noticed that the ON/OFF switch does not operate / hold as firmly as the other identical switch (meant for a light). After opening up & removing the green plastic casing for the switch I was at least able to get the compressor running continuously as intended though the switch was still jammed.

Pressure gauge display and push on push off switches with casing removed

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The switch in close-up - faulty power button switch on the left side

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I would need advice from the forum members on how to get this fixed ? My guesses -

1. Replace the spring of the faulty switch ?
2. Replace the faulty switch altogether ?
3. I do not use the light switch at all and it works perfectly fine. To save cash, can I interchange the switches so that the LED switch actually powers on the compressor ?

In the first 2 cases, what is the component's name I need to buy and in the 3rd case what connections should I change & how ?

Happy to accept other easy DIY suggestions as well.

Oh yeah, its only fair that I let you know - Though I experiment / show interest towards repairing every day devices, my knowledge on circuits / components / electronics could at best be 3 on a scale of 10. I have not done any soldering / new circuit connections before but would love if someone here could let me know if my device can be repaired & what is to be done / which components replaced.

Thanks for all the help !
 
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73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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Sir Karthik316_1999 . . . . . . .

I see no fault with the domes on the tactile / Klixxon poshbutton switches above the LCD display unit.

Referring to the very bottom photo:

The LEFT of the *** push button switches is invariably being the MAIN power switch, while the right one is for the work light .
(*** Memory fails me now . . . . for remembering the foreign brand of those latching switches. )

If questioning the power switch for your cutting off . . . .just put on clip of a test lead and if the unit stops, temporarily jump it with the other
clip to see if air pump motor action restarts.

There is also a branching off of the pumps air output to a yellow DELRIN encased pressure switch being involved in the whole equation.

Yes . . . .you could inter swap the switches . . .if the marked on current / amperage rating is being the same for both switches.

Also, if you LOOK, you can usually see the manner that a small wire straight spring pivots back and forth to create the switches latching action . . . .if you will compare between the units.

A very common failure mode is for a small plastic tab breaking off , disabling the latching action.
In which case the switch STILL operates, but you just have to hold pressure inwardly on it CONTINUALLY.

. . . . . . .grrrrrrrr . . . . .still haven't remembered that popular "ferrin" switch brand .

Whooooops . . . . . I did it ! . . . . . . . Schadow brand . . . . of which . . . . . I believe that ITT is now being their Sugar Daddy.


73's de Edd
 
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Karthik316_1999

Apr 4, 2016
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Hi 73's de Edd,

Thank you for the quick response.

.

If questioning the power switch for your cutting off . . . .just put on clip of a test lead and if the unit stops, temporarily jump it with the other
clip to see if air pump motor action restarts.

Am afraid I do not have a proper setup/equipment to do that nor the expertise.. Is there a step by step guide that I can look onto ?

Yes . . . .you could inter swap the switches . . .if the marked on current / amperage rating is being the same for both switches.

Again, can you guide me how exactly to do that ? Connections, etc..

Further, if I'm to replace those switches.. is it possible to get a exact replica.. googling "tactile push button switches" does not help exactly..

Thanks again.
 

duke37

Jan 9, 2011
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The switches look the same to me, The bottom tags are connected together so to interchange the switches it it only necessary to swap over the top black and red wires. It looks as if these are soldered.
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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Am afraid I do not have a proper setup/equipment to do that nor the expertise.. Is there a step by step guide that I can look onto ?
If it stops, temporarily jump the switch contacts with the tip of a standard screwdriver, just long enough to see if it starts running again.

Again, can you guide me how exactly to do that ? Connections, etc..
FIRST . . .look all around the switch for the amperes of current rating marked upon them.

Further, if I'm to replace those switches.. is it possible to get a exact replica.. googling "tactile push button switches" does not help exactly..
Other switch configurations are possible . . . .they just need to physically meet your mounting space and be rated electrically for the current that the others were using.
 

Karthik316_1999

Apr 4, 2016
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Okay.. if its just about soldering the leads.. that will be huge relief !

temporarily jump the switch contacts with the tip of a standard screwdriver

Just to confirm, this means I need to place the screwdriver across the TOP and BOTTOM terminal of the compressor switch - correct ?
Plus, is there any chance of an electrical shock doing so ? Since the switch casing is removed - only way I can get a grip to operate those switches would be by holding onto its 'ears' (the two perforated brass - I suppose - plates on the sides of the switches for the screwing) Am I safe doing so ?

look all around the switch for the amperes of current rating marked upon them.

Okay.. it says 2A/8A on both the switches BUT as seen below there is a marking which says 'C' and '14' at the bottom of the compressor switch while it is 'C' and '11' for the light switch. I'm guessing it is some sort of a tripping amperage ? Can I still swap those switches ?




Other switch configurations are possible

hmm.. No, I guess the mounting will be a problem as the space / brackets within the compressor seem to be specifically designed. So, isn't there a specific type/model for this switch that I can search for ? or. am I better off taking the switch to the market to get a similar duplicate ?
Well, this would not be required if I can just swap the connections.. I don't mind even if the light switch does not function.
 

duke37

Jan 9, 2011
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I do not think that the switches have any current trip, they are too small.
The C and 11 and 14 look to be moulded in and may be the record of the moulding machine used.
The metal mounting bracket will not be connected to anything.

Such switches were used in old radios and could be obtainable.

You will not get a shock at any serious level from 12V.
 

Karthik316_1999

Apr 4, 2016
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Alright then.. Let me try soldering them across after testing with the jump start method. Thank you both for the advice !
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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Sir Karthik316_1999. . . . . . .

IN REVIEW . . . . . . . .

Since you now have given us the switch current specs.

If the sole fault of the Pump switch is its not latching on . . . .and that switch is basically a spring loaded temporary contact push button switch
with its LATCHING on action, being a product of its mechanical construction.

AND if the jumping of the air pump switches contacts with a screwderiver blade always results in a pump running condition.

Should you opt for el cheapo fix . . . . .NME . . . . (No munny expenditure)
As previously mentioned, you just need to inter swap wire A position with B position.
Then realize that the named switch functions will have been transversed.
Hook up a tire to load down the unit and see that a full specific pressure can be reached by pushing in and engaging the new "Air pump switch"

If all passes, then the only final act of perfection, would be to move the RED heavier gauge wire from off of C position to C' position.
That way, you get the full .1168 volts @ 6.55 amp drop compensation for the loss in that 2.85 inch in disparity of the wire run, by using a lesser gauge of wire.


ZAITdvk.jpg



73's de Edd
 
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