Driver circuit. How do you figure out what transistor and resistor values to use? Need help

[John Popelish]

I'm using a Honeywell lle sensor. LLE 105000 (Type 5) Mounts on the
inside. I intend to integrate the sensor into the handle of a mug.

It is required for me to include a driver circuit in my design. That's
what my teacher said. I heard that i can purchase a 3-24V circuit board
and get the right components, then connect the sensor and buzzer to it?
As in i get the circuit board and the right transistor and resistors?

Oh my, I know it's supposed to be really simple to understand, but i'm
not a very good student. =(

Thanks you guys for helping me out! =)

Yes the driver will be very simple. But the kind of driver needed
depends on whether your buzzer makes a tone when connected to DC
(contains and internal oscillator) or has to be driven by AC (is just
a transducer). Did you perform the test I described?

If your buzzer makes a tone when connected to a battery, then the
driver is just a single PNP transistor and a few resistors. If it
just clicks, then the driver has to be an oscillator that produces a
wave close to the resonant frequency of the buzzer, but us gated on
when a logic low (negative supply) voltage is applied from the sensor.

 

[John Popelish]

Oh, thanks so much.. Frankly speaking, i don't really understand
everything you're saying but i get the gist of it. The circuits you
drew up for me, seems to be what my teacher is asking for. I will show
it to him tommorrow and see what he says.

If i can get this driver circuit part out of the way, i will have to go
on to the next part, which is to include a temperature sensor and a
tilt sensor.

So far, i can't find small enough sensors. The temp sensor is to sense
liquid temperatures. And the tilt sensor is supposed to deactivate the
liquid level sensor. So, when the mug is in a tilted position, even if
the liquid covers the lle sensor, the buzzer won't activate.

I think i'm very bad at explaining stuff. Let me try again.

What i am supposed to do, is to incoporate all these components in a
mug. Making it a smart mug.

The lle sensor, will go on when the liquid reaches a certain level.
Thus, will cause the buzzer to go on as well.

The tilt sensor is to deactivate the lle sensor, so that the buzzer
will not go on if the mug is in a tilted position. i.e, when it is
being washed, etc..

The temp sensor, if the liquid is too hot, the buzzer will sound. I'm
not clear about this, but i think i will need another buzzer for this.

I doubt you want multiple buzzers going off. I suspect this mug is an
excuse for you to use combinatorial logic (gates) to combine input
signals to produce output signals. AND gates produce a log high
output only if all inputs are highs. OR gates produce a logic high
output when any input is a logic high. NOT gates have only one input
and produce a logic output that is the opposite of its input. There
are also AND and OR gates that include a NOT function added to their
outputs, so these are called NAND and NOR gates, respectively.

I have yet to be able to find a suitably small temp and tilt sensor. I
thought i could use this for the temp sensor, but i can't find a
circuit diagram. Therefore, i can't tell if i can incoporate it into my
circuit.

http://tsdpl.com/MPT-PROBE.htm

If I were you, I would be searching through the thermistor section of
the catalog. Much cheaper and have lots bigger signal. They are not
linear, but for a threshold function, like this, that makes no difference.

 

[John Popelish]

I learned abit about BJTs in my 1st year, but i'm afraid i've forgotten
most, if not all of what i have learnt. Because it was only a small
little part of a chapter of one of my modules. Lol

I will try to get back some of my old books from my friend and see if i
can read up on BJTs again. Is that what i need to know about?

Since verything has to be intergrated into a mug, i think that i can
only squeeze in one supply voltage, And it has to be in the form of
those flat round batteries. Maybe i can connect 2 or 3 flat batteries
in series or parallel?

thanks

Definitely series, because the sensor has a minimum supply voltage of
5 volts, and the buzzer needs about that much to be audible. 5 volts
is also a very useful voltage for amplifiers, comparators (that turn a
signal voltage into a logic state) and gates. This would take about 3
or 4 of those button cells.

 

[Jonathan Kirwan]

I learned abit about BJTs in my 1st year, but i'm afraid i've forgotten
most, if not all of what i have learnt. Because it was only a small
little part of a chapter of one of my modules. Lol

I will try to get back some of my old books from my friend and see if i
can read up on BJTs again. Is that what i need to know about?

BJTs are "bipolar junction transistors" and are what is usually just
called a "transistor." However, they are often called BJTs in order
to differentiate them from other transistors, like JFETs and MOSFETs.
And yes, that's what you need to learn about.

Since verything has to be intergrated into a mug, i think that i can
only squeeze in one supply voltage, And it has to be in the form of
those flat round batteries. Maybe i can connect 2 or 3 flat batteries
in series or parallel?

This makes things tricky. Problem #1 is that your sensor is specified
at 5V +/- 5%. This means something between 4.75V and 5.25V. Not much
of a margin to work with, assuming that it will be battery chemistry
determining your voltage.

If you are talking about those lithium button batteries, they don't
provide much more than 1mA or so. And they are 3V, usually. So you'd
need two, but that would be too much voltage, anyway. Problems with
voltage and more problems with current delivery.

Not to mention that you will need to verify that your buzzer will work
at whatever single voltage you settle on.

I think this is going to be an issue you will need to put some thought
into and verify with your teacher. Are you _sure_ that you cannot use
an external supply? If it must be batteries, what has been used
before with success? How much space do you really have? Have you
made measurements of your volume and can you spell them out, here?

Jon

 

[obliquez]

BJTs are "bipolar junction transistors" and are what is usually just
called a "transistor." However, they are often called BJTs in order
to differentiate them from other transistors, like JFETs and MOSFETs.
And yes, that's what you need to learn about.


This makes things tricky. Problem #1 is that your sensor is specified
at 5V +/- 5%. This means something between 4.75V and 5.25V. Not much
of a margin to work with, assuming that it will be battery chemistry
determining your voltage.

If you are talking about those lithium button batteries, they don't
provide much more than 1mA or so. And they are 3V, usually. So you'd
need two, but that would be too much voltage, anyway. Problems with
voltage and more problems with current delivery.

Not to mention that you will need to verify that your buzzer will work
at whatever single voltage you settle on.

I think this is going to be an issue you will need to put some thought
into and verify with your teacher. Are you _sure_ that you cannot use
an external supply? If it must be batteries, what has been used
before with success? How much space do you really have? Have you
made measurements of your volume and can you spell them out, here?

Jon

Morning guys, I have not slept all night and it's 7:15 over here now.
*Yawns*

I will be going to school soon, to try and sort out all the information
you all have given me. I will do the testing of the components. Such as
connecting the sensor and buzzer directly to see if it's a tone or pop.

and will clarify with ya all as soon as i can. I'm sorry for my
ignorance in this subject and area. Please bear with me. My utmost
gratitude for helping.

 

[obliquez]

If I were you, I would be searching through the thermistor section of

the catalog. Much cheaper and have lots bigger signal. They are not
linear, but for a threshold function, like this, that makes no difference.

I have no idea what you are talking about. Linear? threshold function?
-sheepish grin-

 

[John Popelish]

This makes things tricky. Problem #1 is that your sensor is specified
at 5V +/- 5%. This means something between 4.75V and 5.25V. Not much
of a margin to work with, assuming that it will be battery chemistry
determining your voltage.

The O.P. says this isa the sensor he is using, if I understand him
correctly:
http://catalog.sensing.honeywell.com/datasheet.asp?FAM=liquidlevel&PN=LLE105000

Is this the wrong one, or is the supply range 5 to 12 volts?

 

[Jonathan Kirwan]

The O.P. says this isa the sensor he is using, if I understand him
correctly:
http://catalog.sensing.honeywell.com/datasheet.asp?FAM=liquidlevel&PN=LLE105000

Is this the wrong one, or is the supply range 5 to 12 volts?

I don't know, anymore. I'd looked at his original link, which was:

http://content.honeywell.com/sensin...el/100437-en.pdf#search='honeywell lle sensor'

It clearly said that the power supply is 5V +/- 5%.

Later information has arrived, as the OP has now said that the device
is the 10500 one. The web site you note above is the same one I'd
already been to, as well. And it does say, 5V to 12V. But I can't
really tell if that is some kind of general table about the general
family, but where certain exact part numbers within that group might
be designed for various voltages, or ... what.

So I went to this page:

http://catalog.sensing.honeywell.com/vsg_compare.asp?FAM=LiquidLevelSG&ITEMLIST=140875,140876,140877

Here, it says 5V, again, for the LLE series!

I don't know. You tell me. I'm frankly confused.

Jon

 

[John Popelish]

I have no idea what you are talking about. Linear? threshold function?
-sheepish grin-

If you wanted to measure the temperature and convert the signal to a
temperature reading with an analog to digital converter (turn voltage
into number) linearity like 1 millivolt per degree is very handy. If
you just want a threshold function, like knowing whether or not the
temperature is greater or lesser than some single value, (either the
temperature exceeds the specified threshold value or it doesn't) all
you need is stability and sensitivity. That is, it doesn't matter
much how distorted the signal is at temperatures way hotter or way
colder than the one you are concerned with, but it matters that you
can measure that one temperature reliably (stability) and clearly
distinguish that temperature from those slightly hotter or slightly
colder (large temperature sensitivity).

The platinum sensor you mentioned, earlier has wonderful stability and
linearity, but it has very low sensitivity. Knowing that a
temperature is on the high or low side of a threshold by a degree is
hard to accomplish with one of those. Measuring the temperature over
a span of hundred of degrees within a several degree accuracy (an
electronic thermometer) is a better use for one of those.

Thermistors have a very distorted response to temperature, but they
are stable and can produce a large signal change for a small
temperature change, so they are well suited to threshold functions.
In order to make a thermometer out of them, you have to correct for
the distortion (varying amount of signal per degree over large
temperature swings). What you described about the requirements of
this project sounds to me like a threshold function.

 

[John Popelish]

I don't know, anymore. I'd looked at his original link, which was:

That one locked up my browser.

It clearly said that the power supply is 5V +/- 5%.

Later information has arrived, as the OP has now said that the device
is the 10500 one. The web site you note above is the same one I'd
already been to, as well. And it does say, 5V to 12V. But I can't
really tell if that is some kind of general table about the general
family, but where certain exact part numbers within that group might
be designed for various voltages, or ... what.

So I went to this page:

http://catalog.sensing.honeywell.com/vsg_compare.asp?FAM=LiquidLevelSG&ITEMLIST=140875,140876,140877

Here, it says 5V, again, for the LLE series!

I don't know. You tell me. I'm frankly confused.

That makes two of us.

 

[obliquez]

If you wanted to measure the temperature and convert the signal to a
temperature reading with an analog to digital converter (turn voltage
into number) linearity like 1 millivolt per degree is very handy. If
you just want a threshold function, like knowing whether or not the
temperature is greater or lesser than some single value, (either the
temperature exceeds the specified threshold value or it doesn't) all
you need is stability and sensitivity. That is, it doesn't matter
much how distorted the signal is at temperatures way hotter or way
colder than the one you are concerned with, but it matters that you
can measure that one temperature reliably (stability) and clearly
distinguish that temperature from those slightly hotter or slightly
colder (large temperature sensitivity).

The platinum sensor you mentioned, earlier has wonderful stability and
linearity, but it has very low sensitivity. Knowing that a
temperature is on the high or low side of a threshold by a degree is
hard to accomplish with one of those. Measuring the temperature over
a span of hundred of degrees within a several degree accuracy (an
electronic thermometer) is a better use for one of those.

Thermistors have a very distorted response to temperature, but they
are stable and can produce a large signal change for a small
temperature change, so they are well suited to threshold functions.
In order to make a thermometer out of them, you have to correct for
the distortion (varying amount of signal per degree over large
temperature swings). What you described about the requirements of
this project sounds to me like a threshold function.

Hmm.. does sound like threshold function to me as well.. Basically, i
just want a temp sensor that will ON when the liquid is too hot. Let's
say 60 degree celcius? (What's the usual temp for a hot drink that is
not too hot?)

So does that mean i sound search for a thermistor instead?

Btw, i have tested the buzzer. It gives off a tone, not a pop. So i
guess i can just follow what you guys suggested and use a PNP, with
resistors? Like this?


+5V +5V
` + +
` | |
` Red| .-. +5V
` .---o---. | |10K +
` | | | | |
` | | '-' |
` | LLE | | ___ |<
` | Sensoro--o-|___|--| 2N3906
` | |Grn 10K |\
` | | |
` | | |
` '---o---' |
` Blue| |
` | / \
` | (BZ1)
` === \_/
` GND |
` |
` ===
` GND

will that work?

 

[John Popelish]

Hmm.. does sound like threshold function to me as well.. Basically, i
just want a temp sensor that will ON when the liquid is too hot. Let's
say 60 degree celcius? (What's the usual temp for a hot drink that is
not too hot?)

So does that mean i sound search for a thermistor instead?

Yes. You should be able to find one like this for very little money.
http://dkc3.digikey.com/PDF/T052/1151.pdf

Btw, i have tested the buzzer. It gives off a tone, not a pop. So i
guess i can just follow what you guys suggested and use a PNP, with
resistors? Like this?


+5V +5V
` + +
` | |
` Red| .-. +5V
` .---o---. | |10K +
` | | | | |
` | | '-' |
` | LLE | | ___ |<
` | Sensoro--o-|___|--| 2N3906
` | |Grn 10K |\
` | | |
` | | |
` '---o---' |
` Blue| |
` | / \
` | (BZ1)
` === \_/
` GND |
` |
` ===
` GND

will that work?

I think it will. I also think the driver is not needed. Also, try it
without the 10k to the +5 rail. I think it is not needed. A better
place for it is from the base to the +5 supply.

You will have to alter this when you get to combining the three
functions (tilt, level and temperature with logic to operate the buzzer).

 

[Chris]

I think it will. I also think the driver is not needed. Also, try it
without the 10k to the +5 rail. I think it is not needed. A better
place for it is from the base to the +5 supply.

You will have to alter this when you get to combining the three
functions (tilt, level and temperature with logic to operate the buzzer).

Mr. Popelish is suggesting that you might not need a transistor after
all -- that the 10mA output drive might be enough at 5V to turn on the
beeper like fig. a). In fact, he's probably right -- it should work
reliably at room temperatures with the reduced beeper current at 5V.

` VCC
` +
` VCC | VCC
` + | + VCC VCC
` | / \ | + +
` | (BZ1) | | |
` .---o----. \_/ .---o----. .-. |
` | | | | | | | |
` | | | | | 10K | | |
` | | | | | '-' |
` | LLE | | | | ___ | |<
` | o----' | LLE o--|___|-o-| 2N3906
` | | | | 10K |\
` | | | | |
` | | | | |
` | | | | |
` '---o----' '---o----' |
` | | / \
` | | (Mic)
` === === \_/
` GND GND |
` |
` ===
` GND
`
` a) b)
created by Andy´s ASCII-Circuit v1.24.140803 Beta www.tech-chat.de

He's also suggesting that, if you do need or want a transistor (after
all, if the teacher is asking for it, you probably had better either do
it or have a very good reason why not), you should do something like
fig. b). He's correct, of course. The base ballasting resistor is
traditionally at the base. It reduces current required to turn the
traansistor ON, as well as providing a better incentive to the PNP to
stay OFF when the sensor isn't sinking current (tied to Vcc through a
10K resistance instead of 20K).

You really should take a deep breath, make a cup of tea, and spend 5 or
10 minutes with a sheet of paper and a pencil, and figure out exactly
what you need for this assignment before posting again. It's kind of
disappointing to have gotten through one issue, only to find there are
two more. A plain English description of what you want the circuit to
do, and what components you've gotten (if any) for the tilt sensor(s)
and temp sensor would be in order. If I had to do this, I would
seriously consider using an LM34 to provide an output voltage
proportional to temperature (10mV per degree), and then use a
comparator to control switching at the appropriate temp.

You've actually been quite lucky here -- most homework questions are
ignored for obvious reasons. I would guess you're almost there, but
you'll have to do at least a little more work to fully describe your
problem. I'm not aware that anyone on this NG can read minds.

Good luck
Chris

 

[Jonathan Kirwan]

<snip>
How about this topology. I kind of like it:

: +12V
: |
: |
: / +12V
: \ R2 |
: / 47k |
: | |/e 2N3906
: +--------| Q2 PNP
: | |\c
: |/c 2N3904 |
: +5V +5V---| Q1 NPN |
: | |\e |
: Red | | |
: | | / \
: ,-------, / (BZ1)
: | | \ R1 \_/
: | LLE | / 22k |
: | Sensor| | |
: | |--------' |
: | | Green gnd
: '-------'
: |
: Blue |
: |
: gnd

Two fewer resistors, even. Make them both 22k, if two different
values is bothersome. And just nail Q1's base to the 5V wall and yank
down on its emitter. This will drive Q2's base just fine and turn on
the buzzer.

By the way, I just put a sample design into LTSpice and it proved out
as expected.

Speaking of which, Chris, I've provided a small tool for converting
LTSpice schematics to text. It's at:

http://users.easystreet.com/jkirwan/new/LTSpice.html

Source code is included.

The output from this program looks like this:

: PRIMARY SPECIFICATIONS
:
: .param Vbb=12V
:
: .param Vcc=5V
:
: .param ILoad=10mA
: +12V
: |
: |
: DESIGN ESTIMATIONS |
: ---
: .param Q1Vbe=0.6V Q1beta=200 +12V - V1
: | --- {Vbb}
: .param Q2Vce=0.2V Q2Vbe=0.7V Q2beta=50 | -
: | |
: .param IR2=0.1*Q2Ib \ |
: / R2 |
: \ {R2} +12V |
: / | gnd
: DERIVATIVE CALCULATIONS | |
: | |
: .param Q2Ic=ILoad Q2Ib=ILoad/Q2beta | |
: | |<e Q2
: .param Q1Ic=Q2Ib+IR2 Q1Ib=Q1Ic/Q1beta +------------| 2N3906
: | |\c
: .param Q1Ie=Q1Ic+Q1Ib | |
: | |
: | +---OUT
: +5V |/c Q3 |
: RESISTOR VALUES ,--------| 2N3904 |
: | |>e |
: .param RLoad=(Vbb-Q2Vce)/ILoad | | \
: --- | / R3
: .param R2=Q2Vbe/IR2 - V2 | \ {RLoad}
: --- {Vcc} | /
: .param R1=(Vcc-Q1Vbe)/Q1Ie - | |
: | \ |
: | / R1 | BUZZER
: | \ {R1} gnd
: gnd /
: |
: .tran 1m |
: SENSOR------------------'

As an example. Which is very, very close to what it looks like in
LTSpice.

Jon

 

[Jonathan Kirwan]

Q3 on the diagram is really Q1. Just forgot to rename it on the
schematic before generating the ASCII. Oh, well!

Jon

 

[Chris]

Q3 on the diagram is really Q1. Just forgot to rename it on the
schematic before generating the ASCII. Oh, well!

Jon

Much better use of resources. I like it. But I _think_ the OP is
going with a single supply, though. I'm actually hoping he'll spend a
few minutes and really nail down what he wants here -- we're all
running around trying to read his mind. ;-)

The output of your program is really interesting. I'm going to take a
look at it when I get some time. Like your web site, too.

Thanks
Chris

 

[Jonathan Kirwan]

The output of your program is really interesting. I'm going to take a
look at it when I get some time. Like your web site, too.

It's darned easy to use. However, it *is* a DOS box kind of thing.
No Windows stuff. So you have to use a command line to work it.
Other than that, it's easy.

The source code all fits into a single source file, so it's
uncomplicated to compile and link. It is designed for Microsoft's VC
1.52C, however. In any case, I don't recommend messing with that part
of it, unless you really *do* have some time to play.

However, you can add new symbols easily. Just edit the ASC.SYM file
in an ASCII editor. You can define each orientation for parts, but
you don't have to define all the orientations if you don't care about
unusual cases. It uses what it can find, doesn't use what it can't.
I've already added the more obvious discrete parts but it does NOT
handle LTSpice's .ASY files that define complex part shapes and pins
as I just haven't yet struggled to deal with those and the WINDOW
definitions in the .ASC files, yet. So some things work well, but
where it doesn't know what to do it just leaves that part blank.
Someday, I'll work harder at examining the ramifications of dealing
with the .ASY files in a general and useful way and then it be a lot
more broadly useful.

I *do* like the ability to work with simple, discrete schematics in
LTSpice, check them out, etc., and then spit them out in ASCII for the
..basics group, though. Seems a good fit and it cuts my time down, a
lot, when trying to verify what I say before I say it and then produce
an ASCII representation that accurately reflects what I tested.

To produce that last schematic, I just typed "ASC j.asc" and it
generated the output on the DOS screen. I then copied that with the
clipboard and pasted it into my post. Must like with Andy's system.

I'd love to have some feedback about it, so let me know if you do.

Thanks for the kind comments, too.

Jon

 

[obliquez]

It's darned easy to use. However, it *is* a DOS box kind of thing.
No Windows stuff. So you have to use a command line to work it.
Other than that, it's easy.

The source code all fits into a single source file, so it's
uncomplicated to compile and link. It is designed for Microsoft's VC
1.52C, however. In any case, I don't recommend messing with that part
of it, unless you really *do* have some time to play.

However, you can add new symbols easily. Just edit the ASC.SYM file
in an ASCII editor. You can define each orientation for parts, but
you don't have to define all the orientations if you don't care about
unusual cases. It uses what it can find, doesn't use what it can't.
I've already added the more obvious discrete parts but it does NOT
handle LTSpice's .ASY files that define complex part shapes and pins
as I just haven't yet struggled to deal with those and the WINDOW
definitions in the .ASC files, yet. So some things work well, but
where it doesn't know what to do it just leaves that part blank.
Someday, I'll work harder at examining the ramifications of dealing
with the .ASY files in a general and useful way and then it be a lot
more broadly useful.

I *do* like the ability to work with simple, discrete schematics in
LTSpice, check them out, etc., and then spit them out in ASCII for the
.basics group, though. Seems a good fit and it cuts my time down, a
lot, when trying to verify what I say before I say it and then produce
an ASCII representation that accurately reflects what I tested.

To produce that last schematic, I just typed "ASC j.asc" and it
generated the output on the DOS screen. I then copied that with the
clipboard and pasted it into my post. Must like with Andy's system.

I'd love to have some feedback about it, so let me know if you do.

Thanks for the kind comments, too.

Jon

Thank you guys so much for your help so far!

I'm sorry that i seem to be ignorant (which i am) and slow (that too)
and i don't quite understand all of which you guys are trying to
explain to me. I don't really describe my problems well either. so
thanks alot for your patience.

The reason why i laid out my problems in parts, is because i thought it
would be easier for me to solve one step at a time. I apologise for the
trouble i caused.

So i shall now try to summarize everything.

For my project, I am supposed to embed an LLE sensor which will sound a
buzzer when the liquid reaches that certain level in the mug. A temp
sensor, or thermistor, which will sound the buzzer (I think it's
another buzzer, my teacher did not clarify this with me) if the liquid
is too hot. And lastly, a tilt sensor, which will either 1. turn off
the LLE and temp sensor or 2. turn off the buzzer when the mug is in a
tilted position.

My 1st problem was not knowing how to get a suitable buffer/driver
circuit to connect the LLE sensor and buzzer. But from all your help, i
have decided to use the PNP with the 2 10k resistors. If that works
best.

Now i have to figure out how to connect everything together and make it
work as a single unit. I have yet to find a suitable temp
sensor/thermistor or tilt sensor.

Btw, I'm sorry not to have mentioned this, but i only noticed it
yesterday when i was testing the LLE sensor. The LLE sensor has 4
wires, not 3. REd, blue, green and black. What the heck is the black
one for? I hope this doesn't create another problem.

erm.. is this laying out of my problem better?

Lastly, what is an OP? Does it refer to me? If it does.. I'm a her not
a he. -smiles-

Thank you so so much!!

 

[Jonathan Kirwan]

The reason why i laid out my problems in parts, is because i thought it
would be easier for me to solve one step at a time. I apologise for the
trouble i caused.

It's far, far easier to have the whole picture. If you piecemeal the
descriptions, no one understands what is the real goal and this only
works to sow frustration -- which we all will reap.

So i shall now try to summarize everything.

For my project, I am supposed to embed an LLE sensor which will sound a
buzzer when the liquid reaches that certain level in the mug. A temp
sensor, or thermistor, which will sound the buzzer (I think it's
another buzzer, my teacher did not clarify this with me) if the liquid
is too hot. And lastly, a tilt sensor, which will either 1. turn off
the LLE and temp sensor or 2. turn off the buzzer when the mug is in a
tilted position.

That's clearer. Though the part about the tilt sensor's effects isn't
too clear. And all this from a few tiny button batteries, too?

My 1st problem was not knowing how to get a suitable buffer/driver
circuit to connect the LLE sensor and buzzer. But from all your help, i
have decided to use the PNP with the 2 10k resistors. If that works
best.

With the other requirements impacting this one, I'm almost certain
that design will need to be modified.

Now i have to figure out how to connect everything together and make it
work as a single unit. I have yet to find a suitable temp
sensor/thermistor or tilt sensor.

It appears that the LLE was specified by the teacher. Isn't the tilt
sensor also specified?

Btw, I'm sorry not to have mentioned this, but i only noticed it
yesterday when i was testing the LLE sensor. The LLE sensor has 4
wires, not 3. REd, blue, green and black. What the heck is the black
one for? I hope this doesn't create another problem.

Only in knowing what they do. The specification you originally
pointed at shows three wires in a picture, describes three wires in
the details below, etc. So this means there is something else yet to
be resolved. I think this is more your responsibility than anyone
else's. You'll have to let us know what you find out.

erm.. is this laying out of my problem better?

Somewhat, yet.

Lastly, what is an OP? Does it refer to me? If it does.. I'm a her not
a he. -smiles-

Ah. Mind if we know your first name?

In any case, I hope electronics is and remains both fun and
challenging and the struggles not so much as to dissuade you from
considering it an important part of your life.

Thank you so so much!!

For getting you to tell us more? (We haven't helped you solved the
problem, yet.)

Jon

 

[John Popelish]

obliquez wrote:
8<

Lastly, what is an OP? Does it refer to me?

Yes, you. OP=original poster