Anybody familiar with these things, electronics-wise?
My gas push mower died and I am pondering replacing it with a corded electric mower. One matter I frequently see in reviews is how the manufacturers will advise to use a 12-gauge extension cord long longer than 100 feet total. People who try using thinner cords (16 ga) or longer cord runs often see the mowers burn up or just stop working permanently.
Some people mention that if the factory repair cost is excessive, that there are instructions online for replacing the motor rectifier. So whatever burns up seems to usually be a input circuit on the motor.
Another question is if it would help to decrease the mower's power usage somewhat--perhaps with a 10-amp motor, limiting it to only 8 amps somehow? The motors seem to be sized and marketed based on the power consumption rating, but the ones with higher power consumption are also the ones that have the most issues with tripping GFCI outlets/requiring 12-gauge cords/burning up...... I would accept a lower power output than the manufacturer's specs if it would boost the overall reliability somewhat. Without knowing what kind of rectifier circuit is used I am only guessing however.
My gas push mower died and I am pondering replacing it with a corded electric mower. One matter I frequently see in reviews is how the manufacturers will advise to use a 12-gauge extension cord long longer than 100 feet total. People who try using thinner cords (16 ga) or longer cord runs often see the mowers burn up or just stop working permanently.
Some people mention that if the factory repair cost is excessive, that there are instructions online for replacing the motor rectifier. So whatever burns up seems to usually be a input circuit on the motor.
Another question is if it would help to decrease the mower's power usage somewhat--perhaps with a 10-amp motor, limiting it to only 8 amps somehow? The motors seem to be sized and marketed based on the power consumption rating, but the ones with higher power consumption are also the ones that have the most issues with tripping GFCI outlets/requiring 12-gauge cords/burning up...... I would accept a lower power output than the manufacturer's specs if it would boost the overall reliability somewhat. Without knowing what kind of rectifier circuit is used I am only guessing however.