# Finding a short-circuit in a remote control garage door opener

D

#### DAO

Jan 1, 1970
0
I have a bug. A cockroach got in my garage door opener and got
fried. Unfortunately now my garage door only goes up. The switch
that makes it go down isn't working. So I asked if it could be
repaired and was told no- they don't have replacement parts cos it's
too old. It'll cost $700 to buy a new one. It's probably a$5 component on the logic board that needs replacing.
Can anyone tell me how do I go about finding out what needs replacing?
I've inherited a digital multi-meter but don't know how to use it -
yet. I presume I'll need to get my hands on a circuit diagram for the
door opener too?

Any help would be much appreciated...

N

Jan 1, 1970
0
Home Depot has entire garage door opener systems for less than $200; you might want to consider it. K #### krw Jan 1, 1970 0 I have a bug. A cockroach got in my garage door opener and got fried. Unfortunately now my garage door only goes up. The switch that makes it go down isn't working. So I asked if it could be repaired and was told no- they don't have replacement parts cos it's too old. It'll cost$700 to buy a new one.

$700 for a garage door opener? You can buy the whole damned door for that! More like$150 for a good opener. Put it in yourself.
They're easy to install, even easier to replace and existing. All
the hard work is done. You can likely replace the transmitter and
receiver for $50. It's probably a$5 component on the logic board that needs replacing.
Can anyone tell me how do I go about finding out what needs replacing?
I've inherited a digital multi-meter but don't know how to use it -
yet. I presume I'll need to get my hands on a circuit diagram for the
door opener too?

Don't bother. A opener that old won't have replacement parts. The
FCC changed their frequency allocation so old parts have been
withdrawn from the market.

J

#### Jim Thompson

Jan 1, 1970
0
$700 for a garage door opener? You can buy the whole damned door for that! More like$150 for a good opener. Put it in yourself.
They're easy to install, even easier to replace and existing. All
the hard work is done. You can likely replace the transmitter and

It's probably a $5 component on the logic board that needs replacing. Can anyone tell me how do I go about finding out what needs replacing? I've inherited a digital multi-meter but don't know how to use it - yet. I presume I'll need to get my hands on a circuit diagram for the door opener too? Any help would be much appreciated... Most switches are modifications of leaf microswitches which cost only a few dollars; the modifications (large clunky cast iron boxes) at lotza bux to the cost of the assembly, so see if a little ingenuity and a cheap microswitch will do the trick. First find the bug, clean the area out; soap and water does wonders, with isopropyl wash afterwards. Use Q-tips or equivalent for scrubbing small areas. Wait at least an hour to get it dry before testing... M #### mpm Jan 1, 1970 0 I have a bug. A cockroach got in my garage door opener... If you can post a link to a picture of the circuit board, maybe we can help? Suggestion: Clean the circuit board (rubbing or denatured alcohol will probably suffice, but not a cleanser or water). Then check to see if anything is obviously "broken". Like a cracked component, lifted traces, or ??? A good visual inspection is often better than the most expensive multimeter a good percentage of the time!! You did not say how old the door opener was, so ignore comments about parts availability. It is equally likely the store just didn't want to bother. (It's easier to sell new.) Also, don't jump to the conclusion that the cockroach is the culprit. It is possible the cockroach was BBQ'ed long before the door quit functioning! On mine (note:$2300 garage door & opener because of local building
codes and hurricane coastline! --again ignore the wild assumptions
and assertions of others), there is a light beam sensor that shines
across the bottom of the door opening. Presumably, this is to avoid
crushing kids, small animals, (slow drivers?).... I wouldn't expect
an "old" system to have this, but if yours does, you might check it
for alignment. If misaligned, it would cause the exact symptom that
you describe.

The radio receiver likely uses the same hardware for "up", "down" and
"lock/disable" commands. Thus, I doubt it's the receiver. Do you
have a pushbutton switch attached as well? Does this work in both
directions??

Check for a "reset" switch and try that. (If you haven't already).
Lastly, if you do end up digging in the hardware, write down all the
numbers on the chips (and transistors if you can read them). Then
me to believe a "driver" could be bad. An older until would probably
use a discrete part for this, but maybe not. If your search results
give a description containing "dual"-package widget, then again, I
would overlook that for now and continue your search - but there's no
guarantee that ONLY 1/2 of a dual pack whatever isn't actually the
problem. Just somewhat unlikely.(?) Mostly, you'd be looking for a
part that would function as a current driver, or isolator. Not seeing
it in-person, that's the best advice I can give.

Good luck.
-mpm

R

Jan 1, 1970
0
On mine (note: 2300 garage door & opener because of local building codes and hurricane coastline! --again ignore the wild assumptions and assertions of others), there is a light beam sensor that shines across the bottom of the door opening. Presumably, this is to avoid crushing kids, small animals, (slow drivers?).... I wouldn't expect an "old" system to have this, but if yours does, you might check it for alignment. If misaligned, it would cause the exact symptom that you describe. Now that you mention it, I once fixed one by _cleaning_ the light-beam sensor - this was 10 or 20 years ago, so any decent opener should have them these days. Cheers! Rich R #### rebel Jan 1, 1970 0 I have a bug. A cockroach got in my garage door opener and got fried. Unfortunately now my garage door only goes up. The switch that makes it go down isn't working. So I asked if it could be repaired and was told no- they don't have replacement parts cos it's too old. It'll cost700 to buy a new one.

Derek, you are in Oz? What make/model/series is it?

To be blunt, if you are challenged by a DMM then your fault-finding prospects
aren't flash, but we *may* be able to talk you through it.

J

#### Jasen

Jan 1, 1970
0
Only problem I have is that the house has steel lath for the stucco,
and steel garage doors, so the range is not what I'd like... got to
figure out some way to extend the antennas into the attic ;-)

buy a bare receiver module from the makers (or switch brands and get
new transmitters too) and wire it to the external button circuit, locate
it somewhere suitable (like the attic if there's not much metal in the roof).

Bye.
Jasen

M

#### Michael A. Terrell

Jan 1, 1970
0
Jasen said:
buy a bare receiver module from the makers (or switch brands and get
new transmitters too) and wire it to the external button circuit, locate
it somewhere suitable (like the attic if there's not much metal in the roof).

Bye.
Jasen

You do love overkill, don't you?

--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

L

#### [email protected]

Jan 1, 1970
0
Now that you mention it, I once fixed one by _cleaning_ the light-beam
sensor - this was 10 or 20 years ago, so any decent opener should have
them these days.

Cheers!
Rich

If it is the infrared receiver, can't he temporarily "override this
interrupter to prove it ?

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