Fluorescent Light Grounding Problem

[[email protected]]

I am making an oak floor lamp with base 4' high with fluorescent tube
(strip light). I can not use standard metal shield in the lamp base,
thus there is a grounding problem. At one point I had the top light
(conventional bulb) and bottom fluorescent light working either
together or independently of each other, but if did not last too long
before grounding problem took over. How can I have a working lamp top
and bottom consistently dependable. Thanks for any advice and help I
can get. Nick

 

[James Sweet]

I am making an oak floor lamp with base 4' high with fluorescent tube
(strip light). I can not use standard metal shield in the lamp base,
thus there is a grounding problem. At one point I had the top light
(conventional bulb) and bottom fluorescent light working either
together or independently of each other, but if did not last too long
before grounding problem took over. How can I have a working lamp top
and bottom consistently dependable. Thanks for any advice and help I
can get. Nick

Run a strip of aluminum tape down behind the tube and ground it, or use
an electronic ballast with a T8 tube.

 

[Sam Goldwasser]

I am making an oak floor lamp with base 4' high with fluorescent tube
(strip light). I can not use standard metal shield in the lamp base,
thus there is a grounding problem. At one point I had the top light
(conventional bulb) and bottom fluorescent light working either
together or independently of each other, but if did not last too long
before grounding problem took over. How can I have a working lamp top
and bottom consistently dependable. Thanks for any advice and help I
can get. Nick

If you're using a ballast that requires a grounded reflector, you have
to give it a grounded reflector. Or, perhaps a wire screen would be
adequate. Is the issue that the aesthetics won't allow a reflector?
Or, that you don't have a grounded plug? It doesn't need to be a reflector,
but something that's grounded. Perhaps even a modelsty conductive
coating, a foil behind a decorative panel.

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--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://www.repairfaq.org/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name AND either lasers or electronics is included in the
subject line. Or, you can contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.

 

[Ken Weitzel]

If you're using a ballast that requires a grounded reflector, you have
to give it a grounded reflector. Or, perhaps a wire screen would be
adequate. Is the issue that the aesthetics won't allow a reflector?
Or, that you don't have a grounded plug? It doesn't need to be a reflector,
but something that's grounded. Perhaps even a modelsty conductive
coating, a foil behind a decorative panel.

Hi...

Or if aesthetics demand it, even conductive paint.

Take care.

Ken

 

[default]

I am making an oak floor lamp with base 4' high with fluorescent tube
(strip light). I can not use standard metal shield in the lamp base,
thus there is a grounding problem. At one point I had the top light
(conventional bulb) and bottom fluorescent light working either
together or independently of each other, but if did not last too long
before grounding problem took over. How can I have a working lamp top
and bottom consistently dependable. Thanks for any advice and help I
can get. Nick

The instant on lamps will light with a spiral of fine wire wrapped
around the whole length of the glass and grounded. Something smaller
than ~30 gauge magnet wire isn't too noticeable. Copper tape is
another option if you don't mind how it looks where the tape is - sold
for stained glass supplies.