# from breadboard to hard wired

M

Jan 1, 1970
0
Generous readers of this forum walked me through
the building of a Pulse Width Modulator. This
was earlier in the year in January.

The project was to reduce the speed of a small
12v DC motor which turns a 4 foot disk, in this
case a painting on canvas mounted on a round
laminated wooden stretcher, so fairly light.
The point of the PWModulator is to conserve the
batteries which power the motor whereas a voltage
regulator would discharge the batteries faster.

Other things intervened but having returned
to the project I was pleased to see that the
electronics work and that the speed of the
motor can be adjusted to very slow.

I now need to hardwire the components. As a
total newbie, I am not even sure which side
of the board the components are mounted
on.

The schematic of the PWModulator and pictures
of the breadboard with components and of two
sides of boards for hardwiring is at
http://www.charlesumlauf.com/wiring.htm

I am writing to ask if there is an online FAQ
on basic electronic wiring or failing which
whether there is a useful book you can recommend
to learn how to do this.

R

#### Rich Grise

Jan 1, 1970
0
Michael said:
I now need to hardwire the components. As a
total newbie, I am not even sure which side
of the board the components are mounted
on.

The component side, of course.

;-)
Rich

C

#### CFoley1064

Jan 1, 1970
0
Subject: from breadboard to hard wired
Date: 7/30/2004 3:09 PM Central Daylight Time
Message-id: <[email protected]>

Generous readers of this forum walked me through
the building of a Pulse Width Modulator. This
was earlier in the year in January.

The project was to reduce the speed of a small
12v DC motor which turns a 4 foot disk, in this
case a painting on canvas mounted on a round
laminated wooden stretcher, so fairly light.
The point of the PWModulator is to conserve the
batteries which power the motor whereas a voltage
regulator would discharge the batteries faster.

Other things intervened but having returned
to the project I was pleased to see that the
electronics work and that the speed of the
motor can be adjusted to very slow.

I now need to hardwire the components. As a
total newbie, I am not even sure which side
of the board the components are mounted
on.

The schematic of the PWModulator and pictures
of the breadboard with components and of two
sides of boards for hardwiring is at
http://www.charlesumlauf.com/wiring.htm

I am writing to ask if there is an online FAQ
on basic electronic wiring or failing which
whether there is a useful book you can recommend
to learn how to do this.

Hi, Mike. You've already got it working on a protoboard. Why not buy a PC
board that's set up like your perfboard, and just transfer it over? If you
know how to solder, Radio Shack has a Matching Printed Circuit Board for $3.29 USD (Catalog #: 276-170) which will do the job. http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog_name=CTLG&product_id=276-170 While you're there look at the newbie books to get you started. Good luck Chris M #### Michael Eisenstadt Jan 1, 1970 0 I said: The schematic of the PWModulator and pictures of the breadboard with components and of two sides of boards for hardwiring is at http://www.charlesumlauf.com/wiring.htm Hi, Mike. You've already got it working on a protoboard. Why not buy a PC board that's set up like your perfboard, and just transfer it over? If you know how to solder, Radio Shack has a Matching Printed Circuit Board for$3.29
USD (Catalog #: 276-170) which will do the job.

While you're there look at the newbie books to get you started.

board that you recommend. There's a picture of the 2
boards already in inventory reproduced on the
charlesumlauf.com/wiring.htm I referenced above.

I have already soldered the 3 terminals on the
pot.

It seems sorta likely that you mount the components
on the bare side of the board at the same time putting
an additional wire in that hole to connect to some
component somewhere else on the board. Then on the
other side of the board you trim the wires that poke
through the various holes and spot solder them to
the copper ring around the holes.

Would the official basic soldering FAQ ISO DIN 9000
manual confirm this supposition?

Thanks to sci.electronics.basics folks I already
got it past Proof of Concept on a breadboard. Do
I have to buy a book at this point? I hope not.

TIA

M

Jan 1, 1970
0
My last post proves once again that the fingers are faster
than the brain.

The holes in the board are too small for both the MOSFET's
legs and an additional connecting wire to go through together.
And most likely the CMOS NAND gate legs as well.

(schematic etc. is reproduced at http://charlesumlauf.com/wiring.htm)

So my original guess about how to put and connect components
on a board was wrong.

I am overlooking something very obvious. Thanks for your
help.

C

#### CFoley1064

Jan 1, 1970
0
Subject: Re: from breadboard to hard wired
Date: 7/31/2004 10:32 AM Central Daylight Time
Message-id: <[email protected]>
board that you recommend. There's a picture of the 2
boards already in inventory reproduced on the
charlesumlauf.com/wiring.htm I referenced above.

I have already soldered the 3 terminals on the
pot.

It seems sorta likely that you mount the components
on the bare side of the board at the same time putting
an additional wire in that hole to connect to some
component somewhere else on the board. Then on the
other side of the board you trim the wires that poke
through the various holes and spot solder them to
the copper ring around the holes.

Would the official basic soldering FAQ ISO DIN 9000
manual confirm this supposition?

Thanks to sci.electronics.basics folks I already
got it past Proof of Concept on a breadboard. Do
I have to buy a book at this point? I hope not.

TIA

With through-hole parts (wire leads), the components are inserted on the side
which does _not_ have the copper. The procedure you walked through is the way
to do it.

If you're a newbie at soldering components, one of the best web resources is
the EPE (Everyday Practical Electronics) magazine tutrorial on soldering:

http://www.epemag.com/solderfaq/default.htm

The words "spot soldering" are enough to give one pause. It sounds
uncomfortably close to "spot welding". The tutorial will give you what you
need to get started without frying your components. If you'd like to look at
newbie books, but are a little short on cash, use your local library's
resources, including interlibrary loans if available. They have a lot of good
resources, too. And look at older issues of electronics magazines for ideas,
including EPE (British), Nuts & Volts, and the late Radio-Electronics. Glad to
be of help.

Good luck
Chris

C

#### CFoley1064

Jan 1, 1970
0
Subject: Re: from breadboard to hard wired
Date: 7/31/2004 11:00 AM Central Daylight Time
Message-id: <[email protected]>

My last post proves once again that the fingers are faster
than the brain.

The holes in the board are too small for both the MOSFET's
legs and an additional connecting wire to go through together.
And most likely the CMOS NAND gate legs as well.

(schematic etc. is reproduced at http://charlesumlauf.com/wiring.htm)

So my original guess about how to put and connect components
on a board was wrong.

I am overlooking something very obvious. Thanks for your
help.

If IC pins are too large for the holes on the perfboard, you've either got a
defective board or the wrong board. For larger semiconductor leads, you might
have to solder 22AWG solid wire to the leads to make the board connection.
This will be good for an Amp or so of current.

Good luck
Chris

B

#### Bob Masta

Jan 1, 1970
0
Generous readers of this forum walked me through
the building of a Pulse Width Modulator. This
was earlier in the year in January.

The project was to reduce the speed of a small
12v DC motor which turns a 4 foot disk, in this
case a painting on canvas mounted on a round
laminated wooden stretcher, so fairly light.
The point of the PWModulator is to conserve the
batteries which power the motor whereas a voltage
regulator would discharge the batteries faster.

Other things intervened but having returned
to the project I was pleased to see that the
electronics work and that the speed of the
motor can be adjusted to very slow.

I now need to hardwire the components. As a
total newbie, I am not even sure which side
of the board the components are mounted
on.

The schematic of the PWModulator and pictures
of the breadboard with components and of two
sides of boards for hardwiring is at
http://www.charlesumlauf.com/wiring.htm

I am writing to ask if there is an online FAQ
on basic electronic wiring or failing which
whether there is a useful book you can recommend
to learn how to do this.

If you want to construct a simple etched printed
circuit board, check out <www.daqarta.com/lptxh.htm>.
But if you don't expect to be doing much more
electronic construction, it might be simpler to
just use a piece of perfboard. You bend the
leads and stick them through the holes just as
in protoboard, only you push each component
all the way flush with the surface. Then you hold
it tight to the surface while you wrap the protruding
a separate piece of hookup wire to make the
connection. Solder each joint after it is mechanically
sound, then clip off the excess leads. You usually
want to insert only a few components at a time and
wire them up before adding more components,
or the back side will look like a porcupine and be
hard to work on. After you push a component
back side a little to hold it there while you insert
the next one.

Hope this helps!

Bob Masta

D A Q A R T A
Data AcQuisition And Real-Time Analysis
www.daqarta.com

T

#### Terry Pinnell

Jan 1, 1970
0
Generous readers of this forum walked me through
the building of a Pulse Width Modulator. This
was earlier in the year in January.

The project was to reduce the speed of a small
12v DC motor which turns a 4 foot disk, in this
case a painting on canvas mounted on a round
laminated wooden stretcher, so fairly light.
The point of the PWModulator is to conserve the
batteries which power the motor whereas a voltage
regulator would discharge the batteries faster.

Other things intervened but having returned
to the project I was pleased to see that the
electronics work and that the speed of the
motor can be adjusted to very slow.

I now need to hardwire the components. As a
total newbie, I am not even sure which side
of the board the components are mounted
on.

The schematic of the PWModulator and pictures
of the breadboard with components and of two
sides of boards for hardwiring is at
http://www.charlesumlauf.com/wiring.htm

You've got me puzzled. That circuit looks like a simple square wave
oscillator. Its duty cycle will therefore be roughly fixed. Yet you
say you can vary the speed of the motor? That's what the author claims
for his 'Pulse Width Modulation' circuit too. Surely, PWM keeps the
cycle period (and hence frequency) fixed, while changing the duty

-------

To build it, I'd use perfboard, with copper strips. The holes for the
MOSFET, and for the heavyish duty wires to the motor, will probably
need drilling out slightly (to maybe 1 mm). Use a 14-pin DIL socket
for the 4011. Drill holes in two corners of the small board if you
want to mount it in a small case. Alternatively, with such a compact,
light board, a piece of sponge will secure it adequately. A hole in
the case will accommodate your pot.

R

#### Rich Grise

Jan 1, 1970
0
Terry said:
You've got me puzzled. That circuit looks like a simple square wave
oscillator. Its duty cycle will therefore be roughly fixed. Yet you
say you can vary the speed of the motor? That's what the author claims
for his 'Pulse Width Modulation' circuit too. Surely, PWM keeps the
cycle period (and hence frequency) fixed, while changing the duty
It looks like it's just that it's such a crappy oscillator that you
couldn't hold the duty cycle constant with a C-clamp.

Cheers!
Rich

F

#### Fritz Oppliger

Jan 1, 1970
0
-snip-

If IC pins are too large for the holes on the perfboard, you've either
got a
defective board or the wrong board. For larger semiconductor leads, you
might
have to solder 22AWG solid wire to the leads to make the board
connection.
This will be good for an Amp or so of current.

He' s trying to put two wires through one hole. won't work.

I prepare jumper ends by forming a teensy hook (using sturdy sharp
straight tweezers), then crimp that hook shut around the leg of the device
I am hooking up to - as close to the board as possible (needle nosed
pliers). Then solder. Then trim.
If you use stranded wire you must tin the end before forming the hook.
Solid wire is easier.
Easy on the coffee.
Good luck

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