roughshawd
- Jul 13, 2020
- 291
- Joined
- Jul 13, 2020
- Messages
- 291
Expecting a great turnout for this thread!! I am at odds with this discussion already, so maybe we can lose the rhetorical whoo-haw and just think for a minute.
When a short occurs, it usually dumps a bunch of power to ground causing some things the board runs, to just quit working.
Sometimes other things to appear to work a lot better than normal.
It also causes things to burn up now and again.
But when an Open happens, it usually causes the majority of the devices beyond that series connection to just stop, and sometimes everything just quits. There is that off chance that the designer built the circuit from the ground-up, and everything is still working just needs a smack on the side to get it going.
I would assume that in the case of a testing for power leaks, that someone might find a direct drain of volts, as a short circuit and an open as a dead or zero voltage and presumably un-defined condition.
I have found many shorts in my amature work. Most were not white lies, but loose connections or direct shunts from a power line to a ground.
Most of these devices worked, but certain aspects were not proper, that is to say that the short was stopping some of the bells and whistles to fail.
Sometimes the device would run for a couple seconds and then fail.
I say shorts, not because its laundry day, but because an open is a loss of power, while these devices are still showing power.
The main argument here is that an open in a dedicated electronic circuit does not generally shut off anything ahead of the open but only the lossy or negative side, so it's really hard to tell sometimes whether it's a short or an open.
I was counting on you pro engineers to design stuff that has color codes... really bad idea cause some are color blind(My dad and sister are sepia)
Anyway when I look at a wiring diagram to trace for shorts and opens, it's not easy to open a stainless case that is sealed at the factory, or remove a plastic that is glued with some form of sealing waterproof goop harder than grandmas boobs, just so I can trace a wire.
I can utilize a set of long alligator clips from both ends of the leads, but today they use multiple wires in connectors and that method doesn't always work.
All things said... I am tracing a device for something that is wrong. Not messing with electricity. There is a direct 110v drain from the top of the power caps to the case. Not so good on a fridge!
Tell me about shorts that don't stay white when you bleach them please !!!!
I have tested other devices and found this same power anolemna.
I need to know if I should find this short, leave it alone or something else.
Please don't add to the problem by telling me you need a serial number and the model ID. That just adds to the problem.
I am trying to fix it.
When a short occurs, it usually dumps a bunch of power to ground causing some things the board runs, to just quit working.
Sometimes other things to appear to work a lot better than normal.
It also causes things to burn up now and again.
But when an Open happens, it usually causes the majority of the devices beyond that series connection to just stop, and sometimes everything just quits. There is that off chance that the designer built the circuit from the ground-up, and everything is still working just needs a smack on the side to get it going.
I would assume that in the case of a testing for power leaks, that someone might find a direct drain of volts, as a short circuit and an open as a dead or zero voltage and presumably un-defined condition.
I have found many shorts in my amature work. Most were not white lies, but loose connections or direct shunts from a power line to a ground.
Most of these devices worked, but certain aspects were not proper, that is to say that the short was stopping some of the bells and whistles to fail.
Sometimes the device would run for a couple seconds and then fail.
I say shorts, not because its laundry day, but because an open is a loss of power, while these devices are still showing power.
The main argument here is that an open in a dedicated electronic circuit does not generally shut off anything ahead of the open but only the lossy or negative side, so it's really hard to tell sometimes whether it's a short or an open.
I was counting on you pro engineers to design stuff that has color codes... really bad idea cause some are color blind(My dad and sister are sepia)
Anyway when I look at a wiring diagram to trace for shorts and opens, it's not easy to open a stainless case that is sealed at the factory, or remove a plastic that is glued with some form of sealing waterproof goop harder than grandmas boobs, just so I can trace a wire.
I can utilize a set of long alligator clips from both ends of the leads, but today they use multiple wires in connectors and that method doesn't always work.
All things said... I am tracing a device for something that is wrong. Not messing with electricity. There is a direct 110v drain from the top of the power caps to the case. Not so good on a fridge!
Tell me about shorts that don't stay white when you bleach them please !!!!
I have tested other devices and found this same power anolemna.
I need to know if I should find this short, leave it alone or something else.
Please don't add to the problem by telling me you need a serial number and the model ID. That just adds to the problem.
I am trying to fix it.
