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I don't know what-all you've checked. So I'll start with what I would do to try to identify the problem:
1) Are the batteries in the remote good, or do they need to be replaced?
2) How do you know the remote is transmitting, and that the receiver is not responding? Could it be that the remote is not actually sending out a signal?
3) Many times I've found that the selector buttons on remotes need to have their electrical contacts cleaned to resume normal function. Do you have any electronic repair experience, or tinkering skills?
4) Have you dropped the remote recently, and suspect physical internal damage?
5) If you are certain for some reason that the remote is operating properly, there is a good chance that you are
correct in believing that the receiver has a reception problem, and the receiver might need repair.
6) Do you own this unit, or is it provided by some commercial service provider who has a replacement policy?
7) Is the unit new enough to still be under some manufacturer warranty, if you personally own it?
8) Are the cable hook-ups from the receiver to your television securely attached (not loose or disconnected if you moved something recently)?
9)The most often thing I've encountered with remotes, is that the batteries themselves can become ajar within the
remote battery compartment. Open it up, and reseat the batteries, and try the remote operation again.
Good luck with this maybe being something simple. Contact us again if you still have a problem, but please be specific with what you've done, and what is happening.
1) Are the batteries in the remote good, or do they need to be replaced?
2) How do you know the remote is transmitting, and that the receiver is not responding? Could it be that the remote is not actually sending out a signal?
3) Many times I've found that the selector buttons on remotes need to have their electrical contacts cleaned to resume normal function. Do you have any electronic repair experience, or tinkering skills?
4) Have you dropped the remote recently, and suspect physical internal damage?
5) If you are certain for some reason that the remote is operating properly, there is a good chance that you are
correct in believing that the receiver has a reception problem, and the receiver might need repair.
6) Do you own this unit, or is it provided by some commercial service provider who has a replacement policy?
7) Is the unit new enough to still be under some manufacturer warranty, if you personally own it?
8) Are the cable hook-ups from the receiver to your television securely attached (not loose or disconnected if you moved something recently)?
9)The most often thing I've encountered with remotes, is that the batteries themselves can become ajar within the
remote battery compartment. Open it up, and reseat the batteries, and try the remote operation again.
Good luck with this maybe being something simple. Contact us again if you still have a problem, but please be specific with what you've done, and what is happening.
Hi thanks for the reply.
i have a device that records ir signals on an x10 system that i own and the signal from the remote is ok also i have tried a universal remote with all codes but nothing happens. The unit works ok from the buttons on the front except that you cant control the setting from there. i do own the unit, i also have some electronic experience but only on a tinkering scale
many thanks
i have a device that records ir signals on an x10 system that i own and the signal from the remote is ok also i have tried a universal remote with all codes but nothing happens. The unit works ok from the buttons on the front except that you cant control the setting from there. i do own the unit, i also have some electronic experience but only on a tinkering scale
many thanks
My opinion then is that there is a problem, as you said, with the receiver.
If there are no big scratches on the IR receiver lens, and it's not covered in dust, it will require repair.
I don't know, (but haven't done a Google search), for a replacement receiver section.
If the unit is past it's manufacturer warranty period, you'll need to find somebody to repair it, or check into
buying a replacement unit.
Maybe someone else here will offer a solution that works for you.
ACTUAL repair by an experienced tech with schematics would probably not be difficult, but can be expensive
with service rates as high as they are nowadays.
If I were you, I'd Google the make and model and try to identify someone in your area who will service your unit.
If there are no big scratches on the IR receiver lens, and it's not covered in dust, it will require repair.
I don't know, (but haven't done a Google search), for a replacement receiver section.
If the unit is past it's manufacturer warranty period, you'll need to find somebody to repair it, or check into
buying a replacement unit.
Maybe someone else here will offer a solution that works for you.
ACTUAL repair by an experienced tech with schematics would probably not be difficult, but can be expensive
with service rates as high as they are nowadays.
If I were you, I'd Google the make and model and try to identify someone in your area who will service your unit.
73's de Edd
- Aug 21, 2015
- 3,622
- Joined
- Aug 21, 2015
- Messages
- 3,622
Sir biggrey54 . . . . . . .
If you want to seek out the IR receiver counterpoint of your remote, it is being mounted onto the PCB that is being just behind the receivers frontal plastic faceplate.
Here is its how to evaluate info:
Different mechanical casings variants, used for present day IR receiver modules:
My yellow marked area is what you should see, when directing a VEWY-VEWY bright light onto the units frontal smoked plastic faceplate and peering inside.
That should then get your perspective of the frontal 3 wire leads that pass back to 3 small soldering pads on that PCB's rear side.
The central lead is a ground and then you see a +V terminal which should measure +5VDC on it . . . . . .should you be so lucky, as to find that supply voltage missing !
No such luck ?
Get access to the inside front panel and then power up the unit and then . . . . . . .
If you will then take a DMM and place it in its AC mode and place in the 100's of milivolts range, then you hold probes across ground and OUT terminals.
Pressing remote transmitter buttons should cause a digit bobbling of a raising voltage on the DVM scale, but it will STOP when you RELEASE the remotes transmitted button.
Confirming such . . . .you have yourself a working receiver module . . . . . . but, if producing zero meter scale activity . . . . . .that IR receiver module is not working.
73's de Edd
.
If you want to seek out the IR receiver counterpoint of your remote, it is being mounted onto the PCB that is being just behind the receivers frontal plastic faceplate.
Here is its how to evaluate info:
Different mechanical casings variants, used for present day IR receiver modules:
My yellow marked area is what you should see, when directing a VEWY-VEWY bright light onto the units frontal smoked plastic faceplate and peering inside.
That should then get your perspective of the frontal 3 wire leads that pass back to 3 small soldering pads on that PCB's rear side.
The central lead is a ground and then you see a +V terminal which should measure +5VDC on it . . . . . .should you be so lucky, as to find that supply voltage missing !
No such luck ?
Get access to the inside front panel and then power up the unit and then . . . . . . .
If you will then take a DMM and place it in its AC mode and place in the 100's of milivolts range, then you hold probes across ground and OUT terminals.
Pressing remote transmitter buttons should cause a digit bobbling of a raising voltage on the DVM scale, but it will STOP when you RELEASE the remotes transmitted button.
Confirming such . . . .you have yourself a working receiver module . . . . . . but, if producing zero meter scale activity . . . . . .that IR receiver module is not working.
73's de Edd
.
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