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hair dryer fuse

M

Martik

Jan 1, 1970
0
Fuse is rated 172C, all I can find is 167C or 187C. Which one should I
choose?
 
M

majortom

Jan 1, 1970
0
You trying to kill ur wife or sumthin?? just kidding...

seriously though, a hairdryer?? why not just throw it out and buy a new
one??
 
N

NSM

Jan 1, 1970
0
Martik said:
Fuse is rated 172C, all I can find is 167C or 187C. Which one should I
choose?

Get one of each. Try 167, if it fails try 187.

N
 
J

Jerry G.

Jan 1, 1970
0
Considering that the fuse went for a reason, I would be more tempted to
throw it out and get a new one. You don't want the missy to be drying
her hair, and the motor or the heating element starts to burn up!

If you want to be safe, use the lower value of 167 C.

Personally, I would go to Wallmarts or somewhere like that, and get a
new one!

--

Jerry G.
======

Fuse is rated 172C, all I can find is 167C or 187C. Which one should I
choose?
 
J

James Sweet

Jan 1, 1970
0
Martik said:
Fuse is rated 172C, all I can find is 167C or 187C. Which one should I
choose?

Use the lower one, it'll probably be fine.
 
majortom said:
You trying to kill ur wife or sumthin?? just kidding...
seriously though, a hairdryer?? why not just throw it out and buy a new
one??

What again is the name of this newsgroup? By any chance it has something
to do with repair?
 
Martik said:
Fuse is rated 172C, all I can find is 167C or 187C. Which one should I
choose?

Martik:
As the James Sweet reply post correctly suggested, install the l67C
lower temperature rated thermal fuse.
As with any fuse, NEVER substitute a higher value than the OEM value or
bypass it, it is there for a very good safety reason... it is not
worth the risk; if you do you are literally playing with fire.
electricitym
..
..
..
 
S

Sam Goldwasser

Jan 1, 1970
0
Martik:
As the James Sweet reply post correctly suggested, install the l67C
lower temperature rated thermal fuse.
As with any fuse, NEVER substitute a higher value than the OEM value or
bypass it, it is there for a very good safety reason... it is not
worth the risk; if you do you are literally playing with fire.
electricitym

And, if it blows again, toss the dryer. A second failrue would almost
certainly NOT be because the fuse is a few degrees too low. Something
else is intermittent or has failed completely like the thermostat.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
 
K

Kevin R

Jan 1, 1970
0
Sam Goldwasser said:
And, if it blows again, toss the dryer. A second failrue would almost
certainly NOT be because the fuse is a few degrees too low. Something
else is intermittent or has failed completely like the thermostat.
what hair dryer has a thermostat? none of the ones I have worked on, the
different temperature settings are usually done by putting the heaters in
different combination series /parallel and shorting out sections, speed of
the motor is also done by putting a low voltage motor across different
amounts of the heater element, usually you have a thermal bi metal cut out
backed up by a thermal fuse, if the thermal fuse goes I would look for a
stuck cut out and a blocked intake grill
 
S

sofie

Jan 1, 1970
0
Kevin R:
The automatically resetting thermal bi-metal cutout or "thermostat" is what
Sam Goldwasser was referring to here.
 
S

Sam Goldwasser

Jan 1, 1970
0
Kevin R said:
what hair dryer has a thermostat? none of the ones I have worked on, the
different temperature settings are usually done by putting the heaters in
different combination series /parallel and shorting out sections, speed of
the motor is also done by putting a low voltage motor across different
amounts of the heater element, usually you have a thermal bi metal cut out
backed up by a thermal fuse, if the thermal fuse goes I would look for a
stuck cut out and a blocked intake grill

It's not for temperature regulation, it's a second overtemp sensor. If the
end is blocked or the temperature rises for some reason, it will shut interrupt
power. Not sure how many might have that but one I looked at recently
did.

--- sam | Sci.Electronics.Repair FAQ Mirror: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/
Repair | Main Table of Contents: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/
+Lasers | Sam's Laser FAQ: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/sam/lasersam.htm
| Mirror Sites: http://repairfaq.ece.drexel.edu/REPAIR/F_mirror.html

Note: These links are hopefully temporary until we can sort out the excessive
traffic on Repairfaq.org.

Important: Anything sent to the email address in the message header above is
ignored unless my full name is included in the subject line. Or, you can
contact me via the Feedback Form in the FAQs.
 
J

James Sweet

Jan 1, 1970
0
Sam Goldwasser said:
And, if it blows again, toss the dryer. A second failrue would almost
certainly NOT be because the fuse is a few degrees too low. Something
else is intermittent or has failed completely like the thermostat.


Salvage the fan motor, they're actually pretty cool most of the time, quite
powerful little DC motors.
 
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