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Help identify power components

ukspawn

Feb 5, 2022
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chips-1100x825.jpg Ei5uFfnVoAASvnF.png Ei5uFfoU0AAHdTq.png inside_top-1100x825.jpg power_supply-3-1100x824.jpg

Near the NTC 10D-11 there is a blue one and a grey 'box' and a red 'box' (film capacitors? ) - anyone know what they are? and what they would do in that application?

These are for protection of the Power supply?

Thank you
 
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Martaine2005

May 12, 2015
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The red component is a fuse ( I think). I can’t see any markings properly.
The blue component is a MOV (metal oxide varistor).
The grey component is an X2 class capacitor (probably). Can’t see any markings again.
The black component is a NTC as you have identified.
These are for circuit protection, surge protection, EMI filtering, over current and inrush current protection.

Martin
 

davenn

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Sep 5, 2009
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The red component is a fuse ( I think). I can’t see any markings properly.
The blue component is a MOV (metal oxide varistor).
The grey component is an X2 class capacitor (probably). Can’t see any markings again.
The black component is a NTC as you have identified.
These are for circuit protection, surge protection, EMI filtering, over current and inrush current protection.

Martin


Excellent response, Martin :)
 

ukspawn

Feb 5, 2022
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Thank you very much. if i end up needing to repair (if no waranty replacment) i can open my unit and take better pictures.

But knowing what the components are is a great start.

Thank you!
 

ukspawn

Feb 5, 2022
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they have sent me a replacment unit on the way from china now. great customer service i must say!

I have now openend my broken unit and taken better photos of the component.

Can anyone now help better identify them and help me find where to buy replacments that are not requiring orders of 3000+ units.

Thank you
hmm says a problem uploading files but doesnt say what the problem is.
 

ukspawn

Feb 5, 2022
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x2 cap.jpg

im finding ones rated in uF instead of 103k?
and they are yellow.. i dont think these are right...
 
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ukspawn

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var.jpg

I can see ZOV, BOV, VDR etc but not finding COV does that matter?
 
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ukspawn

Feb 5, 2022
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the NTC i have found easy enough and can buy in pairs. does anythiong look damaged? is there a way to check the fuse without a multimeter, can you remove the plastic case and see anything? but if the fuse was blown i dont think ANY power would get to the PSU and no noise would be made at all?

Is that a reasonable assumption?
 
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ukspawn

Feb 5, 2022
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the clicking noise is now confirmed to be coming from the sealed SMSL ultra low noise PSU box, so to me that confirms what someone told me, that the power cap that supplies the power to that is failing to provide the correct power for startup. so i think replace all those 4 components there and see if it works.

if it doesnt its probably not cost me a lot of money.
 

ukspawn

Feb 5, 2022
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smashing, thanks

Can i fit a bigger uF / voltage rating there? are there better quality ones or more reliable manufacturers? etc

Thank you
 
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ukspawn

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103 = 0.01uF

and 0.01 uF = 10nF ?

so this is ok?

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/film-capacitors/4856633

or

https://www.mouser.co.uk/ProductDetail/KEMET/R46KF210000N0K?qs=eW1o/bAj9gT/vSHNj3FDIg==

note it says "life 1000hrs"? is that at max temperature? - can i get one with more lifetime... and 125c rated?
Sorry for all the questions im new to all this and trying to fix this, dont know where else to ask.

Shall i email mouser / RS and send photos asking what to replace with? hm, yeah im going to do that...

Still, if you can answer any questions or give any advice please do.

Cheers
 
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ukspawn

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Screenshot (76).png

OK, pretty sure these are correct even if not from the same manufacturer.

Measured the space between pins for all of them, searched for datasheets on the original, got component that match datasheet specification.

order 2 of each incase this happens again in another year is my thinking.
 
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ukspawn

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Does it matter so much that the old caps datasheet says 250/280 VAC (marked 275 on the actual cap) and the new says 310VAC - i read that as long as its MORE and not less then that is fine? is this true? Im about to have a go at soldering...

The unit has been off for over a week without power now, should i still discharge the cap? how should i go about it if so, - my electrical testing screwdriver maybe? will that tell me anything?

other than this they are the same 40/110/56 rating
Correct pitch (7.5mm)
correct capacitance 10nF/ 0.01uF / 103k
Same Tollorance (10%)
Good to go yeah?
 
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ukspawn

Feb 5, 2022
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ive learned not to use too hot temperature on them or they can damage, so <350c <3sec ..

is "Time constant" @ temperature relative to the 'lifetime' rating i saw. so EG 1000hrs at max, if the time constant says 10.0 @85c then it will last 10,000 hrs?
 

ukspawn

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cool ,so i also just learned the PP x2 caps dont have a polarity.

Im learning so much!

Anyone care to guess whats inside the sealed PSU section? A Electrolytic Cap maybe and there is a '3 prong' component going by the PCB traces? just a guess
 

davenn

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and 0.01 uF = 10nF ?

Yes, sorry, I should have mentioned that

Does it matter so much that the old caps datasheet says 250/280 VAC (marked 275 on the actual cap) and the new says 310VAC -


higher voltage rating on the new replacement is ideal :)

cool ,so i also just learned the PP x2 caps dont have a polarity.

that's true :)

I'm learning so much!

awesome ... we never stop learning till the day we die .... I started in electronics when around 7 yrs old, am now going on 63 ...
So I have been at it a long time and am still learning new stuff :)

keep up the fun stuff and read, read, read and of course, experiment ( preferably on low voltage stuff till you gain experience :) )

cheers
Dave
 

ukspawn

Feb 5, 2022
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Thank you for the reply and encouragment.

Ive ordered a better soldering iron with temp control as i only had an old crappy one. and im going to practice first on an old remote control PCB before i go on the expensive parts.
 

ukspawn

Feb 5, 2022
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I have replaced those 4 component and the issue remains. so atleast i know i didnt make it worse :)

So ive removed the sealed up "S.M.S.L ultra low noise PSU". it has 2 pins coming in from the AC mains power and 3 pins coming out.

Can anyone help understand why there is only 2 in but 3 out.

I have opened up the sealed PSU unit and its a soft metal case (lead?) and inside its full of rubber solution that i had to pick around to see inside. i will get some pics soon. but i dont think this is something i can repair due to the rubber stuff all over everything. so.

As we know it generates 12v DC 1a im thinking of bypassing it and running an external PSU wires directly to the board but im stuck as to what the 3rd output would be.

EDIT:

Looking at the PCB traces i see "V+" "V-" and "PGND"

Where would i wire the ground to if i bypass the SMPS?
 
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