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Hot Wire in Salt Water.

stoneshirt

Jan 8, 2022
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Jan 8, 2022
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Hello,everyone.
I'm working on making a Switch to go inside of a Diving Regulator.I want it to be mounted inside,and be actuated by the Diaphragm(on taking a breath)..This will be a McGyver setup,since I live in a Remote part of Colombia,with not much choice of Parts/Supplies.Would this switch work in Salt Water,without being Waterproof?..In other words,can I run the Positive Wire from the Battery,down inside the Air Hose to a bare set of contact Points, actuated by the Diaphragm.Would it just SHORT OUT,or what.? It's a 12v Bat,and a small Air Compressor(8amp 100w that I need to be actuated on drawing each Breath.to save Battery power.(not running continuously)

Putting something like that in a Sealed unit is proving to be difficult.Thanks for any Input...

stoneshirt.
 

Alec_t

Jul 7, 2015
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Under stress you could be taking a breath very frequently. I doubt your compressor would survive long being switched on/off frequently. That said, a small sealed reed switch could perhaps be actuated by a magnet attached to the diaphragm and could then trigger a relay (or solid-state switch) at the surface to control the compressor. Any bare conductor in contact with salt water will rapidly corrode through electrolysis.
 

stoneshirt

Jan 8, 2022
5
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Jan 8, 2022
Messages
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Alec.Thanks.at least you understood my writing about my problem...Haha....That is a good idea you have.
I search in Chest deep Water on the Beach for Jewelry.I will just need the Hookah for ducking down and finding/digging the Target.I have written 5 different Manufacturers of Compressors asking about cycling a Compressor,and running it fully pressurized and such..,no One would give me a straight answer,most replied "are you a Customer?)....I'll give it some more thought.I thought that with a 8Amp Motor,being run by an 8amph Battery would give me an Hours running time,but someone told me there is less than an Hour ,due to some Laws of Electric usage,where you don't actually get what the Specs state?...stoneshirt..
 

Harald Kapp

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Nov 17, 2011
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Think about adding a pressure tank and a pressure regulating valve between compressor and mouthpiece. The compressor would be activated only now and then to fill the tank - at a higher pressure than you need at the mouthpiece. This would be controlled by a pressure sensitive switch within the tank.
The regulating valve will reduce the pressure to a manageable pressure you can actually breathe.
This setup will operate the compressor less often, but then for a longer time.

Note: I'm by no means an expert in this technology. You use any advice at your own risk.
Whatever construction you chose: I recommend you get some expert local support in constructing this contraption when your life depends on it.
 

roughshawd

Jul 13, 2020
465
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Jul 13, 2020
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465
Pressure regulation is a really tough subject. Without a complete system to handle the regulation/device the pressure is just that, pressure. If you can use orifice tubes to reduce/expand the capability of the pressure system, then reduce the pressure to a stable point and leave it. There is too much chance of having the switching system leak or purge. You can make a valve that just dumps some pressure somewhere, but you can't really fire a trigger from a stable regulator. Think of it this way.... A 100v source drives a relay that only allows 50v to trickle out of the circuit, then some guy comes in and adds a circuit that takes that 50v down to 10v and powers a little fan with it. The system that required the 50v is now forced to run on 40v and this over heats everything and poof, the fan stops.
Do what you want. I grew up near the ocean. Electricity from wires in the ocean are quite a thing to see! I don't think you need that experience in your mouth!!!
 

Harald Kapp

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The system that required the 50v is now forced to run on 40v and this over heats everything and poof, the fan stops.
Nonsense. Why should that be so? When you attach e.g. a 5 V regulator to a 12 V battery, the battery's output voltage is still 12 V and can power 12 V devices.
 

Marcella321

Sep 7, 2022
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Sep 7, 2022
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Pressure control is a very complex topic. Without a full mechanism to manage the regulation/device the pressure is just that, pressure. It is best to drop the pressure to a steady level and keep it there if the system's capacity can be adjusted using orifice tubes. There is too much possibility of having the switching system leak or purge. You can construct a valve that merely dumps some pressure someplace, but you can't truly fire a trigger from a steady regulator. Think about it this way.... A 100v source drives a relay that only allows 50v to dribble out of the circuit, then another man comes in and builds a circuit that reduces that 50v down to 10v and powers a tiny fan with it. Overheating occurs when the system that needed the 50v is now operating on 40v, and the fan stops working as a result.
 
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