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How do you drill through stainless steel at home?

D

Danny D.

Jan 1, 1970
0
What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12362068/img/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?
 
C

chaniarts

Jan 1, 1970
0
What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12362068/img/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?

1st, you don't have a Ti drill bit. you may have a TiN coated drill bit.
the TiN isn't to make it stronger or sharper, it's to make it look
better, for the most part.

you probably want a cobalt drill bit.

2nd, you probably want to google this question. there are plenty of
resources on the net on how to do this.
 
D

Danny D.

Jan 1, 1970
0
You might have better luck with a clamp, or some heat shrink
tubing to attach the loop.

Indeed. If there was some other way to hang it by the tail,
I would.
 
D

DerbyDad03

Jan 1, 1970
0
What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
 http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12362068/img/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?

Aren't you worried about voiding the warranty?
 
T

The Daring Dufas

Jan 1, 1970
0
What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12362068/img/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?

I had to drill some stainless steel so I purchased a small set of Cobalt
Silver & Deming Drill Bits and used Tap Magic cutting fluid.
I've had to drill all sorts of stainless steel when servicing restaurant
equipment. ^_^

http://www.amazon.com/Grip-Cobalt-Silver-Deming-Drill/dp/B000IEXA8W

http://www.tapmagic.com/

TDD
 
P

Phil Allison

Jan 1, 1970
0
"Danny D."
I didn't get any further than the punch mark


** Using a punch work hardens the metal.

Maybe file a flat instead, then fit the drill bit way up in the chuck and
try again.

Slowly and with some oil.


.... Phil
 
B

Baron

Jan 1, 1970
0
Rich Webb Inscribed thus:
Ding it with a punch to get started, else you'll just skip around on
that convex surface. Use the right cutting fluid and a slow-ish drill
speed.

And a carbide drill ! You can buy ones specifically ground for
stainless and other hard to machine materials.
 
S

Sjouke Burry

Jan 1, 1970
0
What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

From my guardrail experience, I had bought titanium coated drill bits.

So I thought it would be easy to drill a hole in a stainless steel can
opener (for hanging on a loop outside by the BBQ cooler).

Nope!

I can't make a dent!
http://www5.picturepush.com/photo/a/12362068/img/12362068.jpg

What's the trick to drilling through stainless steel?

Industrial quality drill. The consumer ones are all a piece of sh*t.
 
N

notbob

Jan 1, 1970
0
What's the trick to drilling a hole through 1/2" thick stainless steel?

A lotta bad advice from this group. You shoulda asked a metal working
group.


As an ex machinist, here's the drill (sorry-couldn't resist):

You need a HSS drill bit (high speed steel). If you can't see the
letters HSS somewhere on that drill, it's not and yer wasting your
money. Make sure the drill bit is sharp! Brand new is even better.

You need a cutting fluid. A specialized cutting fluid is best, but
clean motor oil will do, like the kind you put in yer car or lawmower.
Have a squirt bottle or oil can full on hand and keep that drill bit
WET! The cutting fluid is as much about keeping the drill bit cool as
it is in aiding cutting action.

Use the proper drill motor "speeds" (RPM) and "feeds" for the material and
drill size. Generally, the smaller the hole diameter and drill size,
the higher the drilling speed (RPMs).

http://members.home.nl/b.ollivier/html/drillspeedchart.htm

Drilling "feed" is how fast the drill bit is plunged or pushed into
the work. Some drill presses have an automatic feed which you can
set, but usually it's jes experience and judgement that dictates how
hard to feed. I see you have a drill press. This is GOOD!, as
stainless steel (SS) is difficult to drill with a hand drill motor.
The trick to drilling SS is to keep the feed pressure firm and
constant. Once you start the hole, do not reduce pressure or "get a
better grip" on the drill press handles while the bit is still
spinning in the hole. Back it out and start again. Once in, constant
presssure. You may see some smoke from the fluid. That's can be a
good sign and an indiction to add more fluid. You should see chips
ejected out of the hole. Smoke and no chips means you are not
cutting, but "work hardening". Keep adding fluid to the hole/drill
while cutting to keep it cool and the chips ejecting. Add fluid with
left hand while right hand works the drill press handle. Light
colored chips (yel, org, red) are good. Shows good pressure. VERY
DARK blue or purple chips means you are pushing too hard (feed too
fast) and you will prematurely dull your drill bit.

If you see no chips ejecting from the hole, you are not cutting and
are now "work hardening" the SS. Bad mojo! If SS work hardens, yer
screwed. It becomes almost impossible do go past that point. You
will hafta buy a carbide drill. Not titanium coated or any of that
crap. Go straight to carbide. If you hafta go to carbide, NEVER stop
the drill motor with drill in the hole or while drilling/cutting. It
will break that carbide bit instantly, gar-own-tee!

And yes!! DO use a center punch to make a starting point. It will
NOT work harden the SS. Work hardening is caused by the heat
generated from the drill friction. That's why you don't want yer
drill getting hot. Keep that sucker douched! ;)

nb
 
P

Phil Allison

Jan 1, 1970
0
" one big boob"
A lotta bad advice from this group.


** Nope - just from you fuckhead.,

As an ex machinist,


** Got fired for incompetence did you ?

And yes!! DO use a center punch to make a starting point. It will
NOT work harden the SS.

** Fraid it almost certainly will.

Work hardening is caused by the heat...


** ROTFL

Work hardening = hardening by "cold working".

Something most of the stainless steels are FAMOUS for.

Wanker.



.... Phil
 
T

The Daring Dufas

Jan 1, 1970
0
A lotta bad advice from this group. You shoulda asked a metal
working group.


As an ex machinist, here's the drill (sorry-couldn't resist):

You need a HSS drill bit (high speed steel). If you can't see the
letters HSS somewhere on that drill, it's not and yer wasting your
money. Make sure the drill bit is sharp! Brand new is even better.

You need a cutting fluid. A specialized cutting fluid is best, but
clean motor oil will do, like the kind you put in yer car or
lawmower. Have a squirt bottle or oil can full on hand and keep that
drill bit WET! The cutting fluid is as much about keeping the drill
bit cool as it is in aiding cutting action.

Use the proper drill motor "speeds" (RPM) and "feeds" for the
material and drill size. Generally, the smaller the hole diameter
and drill size, the higher the drilling speed (RPMs).

http://members.home.nl/b.ollivier/html/drillspeedchart.htm

Drilling "feed" is how fast the drill bit is plunged or pushed into
the work. Some drill presses have an automatic feed which you can
set, but usually it's jes experience and judgement that dictates how
hard to feed. I see you have a drill press. This is GOOD!, as
stainless steel (SS) is difficult to drill with a hand drill motor.
The trick to drilling SS is to keep the feed pressure firm and
constant. Once you start the hole, do not reduce pressure or "get a
better grip" on the drill press handles while the bit is still
spinning in the hole. Back it out and start again. Once in,
constant presssure. You may see some smoke from the fluid. That's
can be a good sign and an indiction to add more fluid. You should
see chips ejected out of the hole. Smoke and no chips means you are
not cutting, but "work hardening". Keep adding fluid to the
hole/drill while cutting to keep it cool and the chips ejecting. Add
fluid with left hand while right hand works the drill press handle.
Light colored chips (yel, org, red) are good. Shows good pressure.
VERY DARK blue or purple chips means you are pushing too hard (feed
too fast) and you will prematurely dull your drill bit.

If you see no chips ejecting from the hole, you are not cutting and
are now "work hardening" the SS. Bad mojo! If SS work hardens, yer
screwed. It becomes almost impossible do go past that point. You
will hafta buy a carbide drill. Not titanium coated or any of that
crap. Go straight to carbide. If you hafta go to carbide, NEVER
stop the drill motor with drill in the hole or while
drilling/cutting. It will break that carbide bit instantly,
gar-own-tee!

And yes!! DO use a center punch to make a starting point. It will
NOT work harden the SS. Work hardening is caused by the heat
generated from the drill friction. That's why you don't want yer
drill getting hot. Keep that sucker douched! ;)

nb

I use Tap Magic cutting fluid. I bought a a couple of small cans of two
different formulas which served me for years before I needed to buy
more. The great thing about their product is the fact that it clings to
the bit and will stay put so using a lot is not necessary. I've used it
when cutting/drilling in different metals including stainless steel. Oh
yea, it makes cutting threads into metal a lot easier too. ^_^

http://www.tapmagic.com/

http://www.tapmagic.com/TMthick.htm

TDD
 
G

George Herold

Jan 1, 1970
0
Greetings Danny,
For the best outcome you need to use the best drill bits available to
you, cutting oil, low RPM, and high pressure. If you can get cobalt
drills then get them. I noticed that my local hardware store is now
selling split point drills. If your store carries these then use one.
They also probably sell "Threading Oil". Get a small can of that. If
the store cuts to length and threads pipe then maybe you can talk them
out of a couple ounces of the oil they use in their threading machine.
Get the dark threading/cutting oil. It will have sulfur in it which is
a good high pressure additive. Don't make the mistake of using motor
oil. A good cutting speed for a 1/8 drill is about 700 RPM. Keep the
pressure on the drill so that it is constantly making a chip. If the
drill stops cutting the SS will work harden which just makes it that
much harder to drill.

Yes, That's my experience, slow and steady and make sure the bit is
always cutting!

George H.

When you feel the drill start to break out of
 
S

Stanley Schaefer

Jan 1, 1970
0
   news:rec.crafts.metalworking would be a better place to ask. (Added)

That's a hell of a can opener if it's 1/2" thick! Might be lassoing
it with a lanyard would be a better way to go.

Stan
 
D

Denis G.

Jan 1, 1970
0
   news:rec.crafts.metalworking would be a better place to ask. (Added)

I'd grind a very small flat spot with a Dremel tool (to prevent the
drill bit from skating) and anneal the end with a propane torch. You
can remove any discoloration with polishing.
 
D

Delvin Benet

Jan 1, 1970
0
I'd grind a very small flat spot with a Dremel tool (to prevent the
drill bit from skating) and anneal the end with a propane torch. You
can remove any discoloration with polishing.

I would go to the Sandia National Laboratory and get them to use a
powerful laser to burn a hole through the fucker.
 
D

Danny D.

Jan 1, 1970
0
see if it's magnetic. If it's been work hardened, it will be
slightly magnetic. If not, it will be non-magnetic. If it's very
magnetic, it will be 400 series stainless (contains no nickel).

Hi Jeff,
Interesting diagnostics. The flat part (where I don't want to
attach a cord) is slightly magnetic. The cylindrical handle
(where I do want to drill) is not magnetic at all.
http://www2.picturepush.com/photo/a/12366090/img/12366090.jpg

I had not realized how hard stainless steel is!
 
J

Jim Wilkins

Jan 1, 1970
0
news:rec.crafts.metalworking would be a better place to ask. (Added)

-I'd grind a very small flat spot with a Dremel tool (to prevent the
-drill bit from skating) and anneal the end with a propane torch. You
-can remove any discoloration with polishing.

Can openers are hard enough to keep their edge while puncturing steel
cans, such as tomato juice comes in..
http://www.metalsuppliersonline.com/propertypages/302.asp
"Cold working will dramatically increase the hardness of this
material,"

I've seen tensile strength listed as high as 200,000 PSI for Type 302
used for pallet strapping.

You could hang the can opener by a Prusik loop of fancy boot lacing
etc around the middle:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prusik

This knot survives handling better than a square knot:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fisherman's_knot

If you use braided Nylon cord you can melt and fuse the ends of the
loop and roll the warm joint flush so it nearly disappears.
jsw
 
J

Jim Wilkins

Jan 1, 1970
0
Delvin Benet said:
I would go to the Sandia National Laboratory and get them to use a
powerful laser to burn a hole through the fucker.
You just don't understand the self-reliant philosophy of R.C.M., do
you?
 
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