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how to send signal wirelessly

nowayinhell

Mar 1, 2016
2
Joined
Mar 1, 2016
Messages
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I have an old Sega mega-drive and I want to make it so the controls are wireless.

True is I have no idea were to even start to send the signal from the 9 different wires that make up the output wire of the controller and send it wirelessly to a receiver what can do the opposite again and input it into the console.

Can anyone help me in the right direction?
 

Gryd3

Jun 25, 2014
4,098
Joined
Jun 25, 2014
Messages
4,098
I have an old Sega mega-drive and I want to make it so the controls are wireless.

True is I have no idea were to even start to send the signal from the 9 different wires that make up the output wire of the controller and send it wirelessly to a receiver what can do the opposite again and input it into the console.

Can anyone help me in the right direction?
Well... you can look online for a wireless transceiver.
You will need to build a circuit that reads the controller state and forwards it to a decoder that will mimic a controller.
There are devices that will mimic the state of a pin on one end to the other, but I don't think they are bi-directional and the added delay may not allow that solution to work...
It's going to be a fun project, fraught with learning.
 

hevans1944

Hop - AC8NS
Jun 21, 2012
4,739
Joined
Jun 21, 2012
Messages
4,739
uh huh :) .... no point reinventing the wheel ;)
Wheels, no, but mouse traps... ain't electronics grand? I found a Victor electronic trap in my back yard a few days ago with a desiccated dead mouse inside. It had four Sony AA cells inside, mostly all dead too. So I dumped the mouse and took the trap inside my house to see what else was inside (wife not at home at the time... fortunately!).

Inside the nicely made, injection-molded, plastic box, there was what appeared to be a simple circuit board with a ferrite-core transformer underneath, all secured very nicely with six itty-bitty screws inserted in plastic bosses. Really nice construction, but the elements had done a number on the electrocution electrodes, which were rusted. The real surprise occurred when I turned the circuit board over and looked at its bottom side: several tiny surface-mounted integrated circuits and an assortment of SMD resistors and capacitors were revealed. Besides the on-off slide switch accessible from the outside of the case, there was a tiny pair of contacts inside that the mouse would have brushed against and closed on its way in to the back of the trap, after passing through a simple maze. These might have been the kill switch.

There was an electrode at the entrance to the maze, and two more inside the kill chamber, but I have no idea what purpose the entrance electrode served. It might have been there to ensure the mouse couldn't somehow turn around and escape without being zapped again on the way out.

So, all of that for less than twenty-five bucks at Wally World, compared to Victor's old-fashioned wood-plus-spring trap for two bucks, also at Wally World. I guess, for some folks, the extra cost is worth it to not have to deal with a dead mouse. My really old-school solution to a rodent problem: get a mouser (cat). Works for me and it will work for you too if you are a cat person. Only down side is my cat always ate the mouse and brought me the head. Or maybe that was an up side.:D
 
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