Step 1 in learning electronics is to solidify your theoretical
knowledge using prototyping systems such as a breadboard. I wouldn't
look into other types of circuit fabrication until you've got a decent
feel for things and are willing to spend a little cash on the right
tools.
I'm afraid I can't recommend any circuit layout software as it's been
a few years since I've done any electronic design (it's software all
the way right now...). But this looks pretty good
(
http://www.expresspcb.com/). They offer to make the thing for you for
a fee, but this takes away all the fun
I can tell you about the "UV method" of circuit fabrication, though.
Once you have your fancy new gizmotron designed and prototyped, you'll
want to make the circuit a little more permanent (and reliable). I
recommend the following method. It's probably the most work and
requires the largest monetary investment (mainly set-up costs), but it
will produce the best end results.
You need an electronic CAD program (such as the above), and use it to
layout the physical design (rather than schematic). Some systems allow
you to input your schematic and the software will produce a layout for
you, but you will need to edit this to meet any mechanical
constraints.
Once you are happy with the design, you print it onto a transparency
at 1:1 scale. Then, you get some photo-resist copper-clad board. This
is a board made from either Synthetic Resin Bonded Paper (SRBP, cheap,
OK though) or fibreglass (more expensive, overkill for home
hobbyists). One side of the board is covered with a thin layer of
copper. This, in turn, is covered by a layer of photosensitive film.
When you buy it, this will be covered by black sticky plastic (to stop
ambient light from reacting with the photo-resist layer).
What you do is cut a piece of the board to the size of your circuit.
You then place the transparency onto a UV lightbox and place the piece
of board on top (having removed the plastic!), photo-resist side down.
You then close the lid and expose the board for however long (2
minutes or so -- see the instructions with the copper-clad board and
your UV box). So, what happens is the UV light interacts with the
board where your circuit tracks are not (because these areas are
shielded by the ink on the transparency).
You then place the board in some developer solution for however long.
This removes the photoresist where it was exposed to the UV light, and
leaves photoresist where your circuit tracks are. You then wash the
board in water and place the board into the etching solution (ferric
chloride). This removes the copper under the remaining photoresist
leaving your circuit behind. You then wash the board, dry it and rub
the photoresist off with some wire wool.
The above process takes a few attempts to get right when you are
beginning, as there are a few ways to go wrong: you might get the
transparency the wrong way up (doh!), under- or over-expose the board
(doh!), under- or over-develop the photoresist layer (doh!), or under-
or over-etch the board. After you've done about 10, you'll be a dab
hand, though. And it's fun: it's like home photography, but for geeks
(no darkroom required!).
You now have a PCB with no components on it. You need to drill the
holes for your components using a fine drill bit (1mm-ish). You then
populate the board with your components (they sit on the non-copper
side) and solder them in place. Then you power up and hopefully all's
well.
When you get really good, you can make double-sided boards for those
really complex designs!
So, what's this all cost, you ask?
You'll need (prices in British Sterling, USD total given below):
Copper-clad board with photoresist layer £2
Transparency (suitable for laser or inkjet printers) (cheap)
Printer (I'll assume you have one)
UV light box £100
Developer solution £8
Etching solution (ferric chloride) £5
*Plastic* tongs (the chemicals are nasty!) (cheap)
Two plastic trays (to hold the solutions) £3 each
Small pedestal drill*
Soldering Iron £20
Wire wool (cheap)
Solder £15
Components (cheap, depending)
Multimeter £15
Total: <£150 (US$250)
* A drill like this (
http://www.dremel.com/productdisplay/att_template.asp?SKU=212&Color=99CCFF),
but you can get cheap ones. Don't try drilling without a pedestal!
Take a look at this (UK-centric) page for some of the things I'm
talking about (
http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search/resu...el=1&Menu=17&Name=PCB and Circuit Development)
Once you really get into things you can get a decent power supply and
then some kind of oscilloscope...
Hope this helps
Chris