Maker Pro
Maker Pro

I just received my wireless transmit and receive board

jmorrone

Jul 19, 2011
28
Joined
Jul 19, 2011
Messages
28
So I just received my wireless transmit and receive boards and I am having a little trouble wiring it up properly. I was hoping if anyone has seen this before they might point me toward my mistake. I have attached a diagram. Any help would be appreciated.

Circuit.jpg
 

davenn

Moderator
Sep 5, 2009
14,264
Joined
Sep 5, 2009
Messages
14,264
ok
Assuming you have the same code for each unit the TX and RX boards set correctly....

Where you have the LED connected to is just a relay port, there is no voltage there to drive the LED. see text just below the first pic ( the RX board) ....

(3) Connect wires from B and A or C.
B-Common Node
A-Normally Closed (connected to B), Open when relay activate
C-Normally Open, Close (connected to B) when relay activate

So if you want the LED to turn on when the TX is activated, then you need a wire from B through a battery and appropriate resistor for the LED you are using through the LED and back to C.
if you want the LED to turn off when the TX is activated then use A instead of C

go Here to select correct resistor for your particular battery voltage and LED type

Dave
 
Last edited:

jmorrone

Jul 19, 2011
28
Joined
Jul 19, 2011
Messages
28
Here is my new diagram after a few changes. Please let me know if this looks functional.

Thank you.

circuit.jpg
 

TBennettcc

Dec 4, 2010
292
Joined
Dec 4, 2010
Messages
292
On page two, regarding the pins 1-2-3-4-in the upper-right-hand side of the transmitter:

(2) Choose the pins corresponding with remote relays you want to control.
1- Useless for 2 channels remote relay switch
2- Correspond with relay labled 2 on figure 1.
3- Useless for 2 channels remote relay switch
4- Correspond with relay labled 4 on figure 1.
First remove all the shunts, and then connect the pin 2 or/and pin 4 to +5v.

If you actually wired it up the way you showed in the first diagram, you shorted out your battery on the transmitter. Might want to check that it is still good. You might need to replace it.

Also keep in mind that the "voltage rating" for your LED is actually the forward voltage drop. This means you will need a voltage greater than this in order to enable the LED to activate.

You can connect the V+ for the LED to the same voltage source you are running the receiver with. Don't forget to include the appropriate series resistor to limit the current through the LED. See Dave's post for an appropriate link on how to calculate the appropriate resistor.
 

jmorrone

Jul 19, 2011
28
Joined
Jul 19, 2011
Messages
28
I havent added power at all to it. i wanted to be sure I had it right first, so everything is in working order. I want to be sure my connections are right before I go forward as this is my first attempt with a wireless transmitter / receiver.
 

jmorrone

Jul 19, 2011
28
Joined
Jul 19, 2011
Messages
28
I think what a really dont understand is on the transmitter. They have (A) marked as where power connects, yet it says I have to feed 5v to what they have labeled (3). I am hoping I have it set right in my last diagram.
 

TBennettcc

Dec 4, 2010
292
Joined
Dec 4, 2010
Messages
292
Your last diagram looks fine to me.

5V is a typical logic level voltage. The PCB holes marked 'A' is indeed where the board is powered from. The +5VDC to one of the TE (transmit enable) ports, it is sending a logic signal to the board to transmit. If JP2 on the receiver module is set to M (momentary), the relays will only be powered (i.e., they will only connect across the NO contacts) as long as the signal is being sent from the transmitter. However, if JP2 is set to L (latching), the relay will remain in the last state sent by the transmitter, even if the transmitter stops transmitting.

Hope this helps.

Edit: Don't forget to also connect either pin 2 and/or pin 4 to +5VDC in order to trigger the appropriate relay on the receiver. For instance, you could have two switches. One switch could be connected to the TE AND pin 2, and the other switch could be connected to TE AND pin 4. Then, when you pressed the first button, only the top relay on the receiver would trigger. Likewise with the second switch.
 
Last edited:

jmorrone

Jul 19, 2011
28
Joined
Jul 19, 2011
Messages
28
I see much clearer now. Thank you. The one thing that seems to throw me is I thought where the jumper on two was placed that made the connection but from what I hear you are saying I would actually have to tie a wire / switch from +5TE to the jumper on (2)

Your last diagram looks fine to me.

5V is a typical logic level voltage. The PCB holes marked 'A' is indeed where the board is powered from. The +5VDC to one of the TE (transmit enable) ports, it is sending a logic signal to the board to transmit. If JP2 on the receiver module is set to M (momentary), the relays will only be powered (i.e., they will only connect across the NO contacts) as long as the signal is being sent from the transmitter. However, if JP2 is set to L (latching), the relay will remain in the last state sent by the transmitter, even if the transmitter stops transmitting.

Hope this helps.

Edit: Don't forget to also connect either pin 2 and/or pin 4 to +5VDC in order to trigger the appropriate relay on the receiver. For instance, you could have two switches. One switch could be connected to the TE AND pin 2, and the other switch could be connected to TE AND pin 4. Then, when you pressed the first button, only the top relay on the receiver would trigger. Likewise with the second switch.
 

TBennettcc

Dec 4, 2010
292
Joined
Dec 4, 2010
Messages
292
That's the impression I get from the datasheet you provided, quoted five posts above this one...

If you're supposed to remove all the shunts, it begs the question of why the manufacturer would even ship the boards with them installed in the first place...
 

jmorrone

Jul 19, 2011
28
Joined
Jul 19, 2011
Messages
28
Yes that is the part that started all my confusion they state

"First remove all the shunts, and then connect the pin 2 or/and pin 4 to +5v."

I'm thinking why would they even provide the shunts/jumpers at all if we werent supposed to use them. So I thought I just left the one on 2 to bridge the two pins and that made the connection... That was just my assumption, but I dont know if I'm right or wrong.

That's the impression I get from the datasheet you provided, quoted five posts above this one...

If you're supposed to remove all the shunts, it begs the question of why the manufacturer would even ship the boards with them installed in the first place...
 

TBennettcc

Dec 4, 2010
292
Joined
Dec 4, 2010
Messages
292
I suppose you could try it both ways. It would be nice if you could post back here and let us know what you find.
 

jmorrone

Jul 19, 2011
28
Joined
Jul 19, 2011
Messages
28
Thank you all for your help. Mission accomplished.

Here is the final working diagram

circuit.jpg

And to answer the confusing jumper question.. all jumpers needed to be off... and then you tie 5v to either 2 or 4.

Makes no sense to me at all why they even provide the jumpers in the first place. :)

Thanks again all.
 

davenn

Moderator
Sep 5, 2009
14,264
Joined
Sep 5, 2009
Messages
14,264
you should probably have a current limiting resistor between the battery and the LED
else you have have a LED with a very short life span

D
 

Flojis

Feb 22, 2014
3
Joined
Feb 22, 2014
Messages
3
Hello, i'm having some trouble with the same transmitter. I bought it at http://www.robotshop.com/eu/en/
How do I have to wire it? Is it correctly drawn in the image I attached?

The reciever works fine.
 

Attachments

  • Transmitter.jpg
    Transmitter.jpg
    57.9 KB · Views: 137

Flojis

Feb 22, 2014
3
Joined
Feb 22, 2014
Messages
3
Trouble wiring up a RF transmitter

Hello,

I bought myself a RF 2 Channel 315MHz transmitter and reciever kit. The reciever isn't the problem but the wiring for the transmitter. I already created a post on a thread but I think it's outdated... (https://www.electronicspoint.com/just-received-my-wireless-transmit-and-receive-board-t237341p2.html)

All information I have:
Bought it at: http://www.robotshop.com/eu/en/
The kit: http://www.robotshop.com/eu/en/seeedstudio-2-channel-315mhz-wireless-relay-switch.html
Datasheets: http://www.robotshop.com/media/files/pdf/how-to-use-315mhz-remote-relay-kits-wls103b5b.pdf
http://www.robotshop.com/media/files/pdf/relay-operation-modes-wls103b5b.pdf

I've added a diagram to the post on the thread linked above. my question is, is it wired correctly on de diagram? Many, many thanks in advance!
 

Flojis

Feb 22, 2014
3
Joined
Feb 22, 2014
Messages
3
The diagram.
 

Attachments

  • Transmitter.jpg
    Transmitter.jpg
    57.9 KB · Views: 145
Top