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Inline connectors

SR46

Apr 1, 2013
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Hi, I am doing a target mat project for tennis and my problem isn't to do with the circuit but it is to ask what you guys think is the best way to manage the cables as I have total of 5 LED rows and so I have a positive and negative on each. Therefore, I have a total of 10 cables running to the LEDs and I want the LED block to be removable from the circuit board so I was thinking of using a 10 way inline connector such as this: http://uk.farnell.com/jsp/displayPr...ce=true&mckv=YKMwxwd8|pcrid|14164337469|plid|{placement}

However, I am not sure as to whether this is the best way to do it. What other ideas do I have?

I also will need a 6 way connector for the mat end as there will be 5 areas of the mat, as well as the common and so a total of 6 wires are running to the mat.
 

shrtrnd

Jan 15, 2010
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I don't see anything wrong with what you've selected. The price is good (though the site I checked said they weren't in stock right now).
There are a lot of other types of connectors you can use, but I can't think of one
superior to what you've posted already.
 

SR46

Apr 1, 2013
4
Joined
Apr 1, 2013
Messages
4
I don't see anything wrong with what you've selected. The price is good (though the site I checked said they weren't in stock right now).
There are a lot of other types of connectors you can use, but I can't think of one
superior to what you've posted already.
Ok thanks, would I just put every wire into the connector? Then do the same for the male/female counterpart?
 

shrtrnd

Jan 15, 2010
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Uh-oh.
We'd need to see your circuit, to determine that.
I assumed from your post, that you knew your circuit?
 

SR46

Apr 1, 2013
4
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Uh-oh.
We'd need to see your circuit, to determine that.
I assumed from your post, that you knew your circuit?
Sorry, I don't think I made it clear but I the circuit is a simple monostable circuit to hold a pulse of a tennis ball for 2 seconds... this is so that when a ball hits the mat, the conductive layers touch and sends a pulse to the circuit. This then lights the LEDs for a set amount of time.

The wires are just screwed into terminal blocks on the board, but I don't want all the LEDs to be constantly attached to the board and so I want a connector that can easily plug in and out. There are a total of 10 wires going into the board as there is a positive and negative for each LED.
 

shrtrnd

Jan 15, 2010
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Then it sounds like your plan is the correct one.
Each wire into the male connector (plug), and the same for the female-side (sockets).
One thing to consider. You usually have an option of choosing a crimp-style for the pins and sockets,
or a solder-cup connection for the wires to the pins. Depending on the tools you have
available, you should make sure you have the one that's easiest for you to work with.
Good luck.
 

SR46

Apr 1, 2013
4
Joined
Apr 1, 2013
Messages
4
Then it sounds like your plan is the correct one.
Each wire into the male connector (plug), and the same for the female-side (sockets).
One thing to consider. You usually have an option of choosing a crimp-style for the pins and sockets,
or a solder-cup connection for the wires to the pins. Depending on the tools you have
available, you should make sure you have the one that's easiest for you to work with.
Good luck.
Either style will be fine - I was just wondering about the price as well because if I have a plug and socket for the LEDs (would need 10 way) and the mat as well (would need 6 way (5 areas and 1 common)) then it looks to be around £5 per part so that would be a total of £20 for the 2 plugs and 2 sockets... is that normal? All I want to do is to be able to quickly connect and disconnect the mat/LED block and £20 seems a bit steep.
 

shrtrnd

Jan 15, 2010
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The price is normal for quality connectors that won't give you problems later.
You can check for a single connector type that could handle all your circuits, but
it'd probably be pricey.
There are cheaper type Molex connectors that would do the job, but it sounds to me
like you'll be plugging and unplugging your circuit often, so I'd stick with a good quality
circular connector like the one you're looking at.
Often, having something that's easy to work with for your application, is better than
trying to save money by using something that causes you problems.
 
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