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IP home security surveillance camera

T

Thumper

Jan 1, 1970
0
I would like to set up a camera (or two) to record the (1) front door
and (2) back door of my suburban house. Here is what I have learned so
far. I hope this helps people trying to get a sense of how this all
works.

I have have a question at the end about saving video / image files to
the Internet.


a. Indoor or outdoor
------------------------------

Outdoor camera require a protective shell, which can cost $100 to $400
dollars. Also, they are more involved to set up as you have to drill
holes to get power and/or network LAN wires to the camera.

I'm not sure if I want an outdoor cam or if it will be easier to place
one at the window and have it peer outside. I guess an outdoor camera
might scare away burglars, so you want them to see it outside. On the
other hand, your friends might be freaked out by the outdoor cameras
and think you're in the mob.

The guy who owns this camera installed it inside his home at the
window. It looks pretty clear to me (in the daytime):
http://incoma.xs4all.nl:8082/view/index.shtml. (By the way, he uses
the Axis 207W network camera.)


b. Audio
-------------

Some camera have audio. Some don't. I don't see the need, unless you
want to have some kind of intercom system at your front door.


c. Nightvision and motion detection
---------------------------------------------------
Again, some cameras have the ability to record in low light (low lux),
which is a useful feature if one assumes many burglaries happen at
night. Some cameras can see further into the distance at night than
others.

Motion detection is usually a function of the computer software you
install with whatever camera you buy. You can define an area in the
view of the camera and if there is movement, the computer can record
or save a still photo. See section "e" for more info.


d. Connecting to computer
--------------------------------------

There are a few choices.

i. You can connect the camera to the computer using an Ethernet (LAN)
wire. In some cases, you can also get the electrical power to the
camera in this way (Power Over Ethernet, or PoE). This is probably the
best way to do it if you constructing your new home and can place
wires wherever you want.

ii. If you already have electrical power near the camera but no
Ethernet wire, it's likely better to just get a wireless Ethernet
camera (WiFi) and wirelessly connect it to your 802.11g wireless
network router.

iii. The easiest method for existing homes, however, appears to be
HomePlug Technology. Basically, you connect your camera to your
computer via your home's A-C power wiring. A USB adapter is plugged in
near and connected to your PC and your camera. Somehow, the video
signal moves through your wiring. Amazing. (Although I guess the video
signal moving through the air is amazing too, when you think about
it.) Logitech has a subsidiary called WiLife that sells stylish
cameras that connect to your computer like this.


e. Recording
------------------
Here is the key part. Some cameras like the Logitech WiLife simply
record to your computer hard drive. Which is okay as long as the
burglars don't steal your computer.


1. I'd like to know if there exists a software that would record still
images (frames) to my hard drive AND upload the images to my web
server (where I have 1 GB of space). That way, even if the burglars
take my computer, their image already be safely saved on my web
server, hundreds of miles away.

2. Related question: Can one mix and match software for any of the
major cameras (WiLife, Dlink, Lynksys, Axis, etc.).
 
B

Bob La Londe

Jan 1, 1970
0
1. I'd like to know if there exists a software that would record still
images (frames) to my hard drive AND upload the images to my web
server (where I have 1 GB of space). That way, even if the burglars
take my computer, their image already be safely saved on my web
server, hundreds of miles away.

There are some purpose built DVRs that have the ability to automatically
send files to a remote site via FTP. This is very useful in large
corporate WAN were bandwidth is managed, and backups can be done
periodically during slow traffic periods.
2. Related question: Can one mix and match software for any of the
major cameras (WiLife, Dlink, Lynksys, Axis, etc.).

Yes, no, maybe... Not easily.
 
R

RockyTSquirrel

Jan 1, 1970
0
wireless WiFi and solar/battery on lowlight CCD camera.. (no led's please)
that should do you..
 
M

Matt Ion

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thumper said:
a. Indoor or outdoor
------------------------------

Outdoor camera require a protective shell, which can cost $100 to $400
dollars. Also, they are more involved to set up as you have to drill
holes to get power and/or network LAN wires to the camera.

You'll have to drill holes in almost any instance - with a regular
camera, you need power and video; even with a wireless camera, you still
need to get power to it, unless you want to run it on batteries (and
then you need space for a fair-sized battery if you want any sort of
decent run time, keeping in mind that the wireless component will likely
be the largest draw).

You can minimize wire runs using a camera that supports PoE
(power-over-ethernet, IEEE 802.3af), although that then also requires
either a network switch/router with PoE, or a PoE "injector" module. See
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_over_Ethernet for more info.

If you're not dead-set on an IP camera and/or don't need the higher
resolution they're capable of, you can also use a standard camera with
video baluns to transmit the video signal over a regular pair of wires.
We've done several using basic station wire (four 22ga. conductors,
cable will fit through a 1/4" hole), and they work great. In a pinch,
I've even just run the video over the station wire without baluns - it's
pretty limited to the length you can run before you start getting noise
and signal loss, but it does work.
I'm not sure if I want an outdoor cam or if it will be easier to place
one at the window and have it peer outside. I guess an outdoor camera
might scare away burglars, so you want them to see it outside. On the
other hand, your friends might be freaked out by the outdoor cameras
and think you're in the mob.

Instead of a standard camera in a big boxy enclosure, consider a
dome-type camera. They tend to be a lot harder to steal, look a lot
cleaner, and are typically more damage-resistant (Lexan domes, and
such). These are typically all-inclusive units, as most box-type
cameras would require an excessively large dome.
The guy who owns this camera installed it inside his home at the
window. It looks pretty clear to me (in the daytime):
http://incoma.xs4all.nl:8082/view/index.shtml. (By the way, he uses
the Axis 207W network camera.)

The current view (as of 20:30 on the camera's time) is borderline
useless, because the evening sun is lighting up every smudge and
particle of dust on the glass and washing everything out. At night, the
inside lights will cause reflections on the glass and also severely
diminish the image. An exterior enclosure is a far preferable way to go.

There are systems made specifically for that - they look like standard
door-buzzer intercoms but have cameras built in.

Another thing you can do, if you want to get the door areas
specifically, are pinhole cameras built to look like a standard door
peep-hole. Frankly, I've never used one, but I have to believe they
exist :)
c. Nightvision and motion detection
---------------------------------------------------
Again, some cameras have the ability to record in low light (low lux),
which is a useful feature if one assumes many burglaries happen at
night. Some cameras can see further into the distance at night than
others.

You could also just hook up a motion-sensor floodlight to turn on and
illuminate the area when someone walks into its zone. This has the
added benefits of providing some safety for people you DO want at your
door, and of scaring off most bad guys who rely on the cover of night to
do their skulking around. If they insist on continuing, well then
they'll be well-lit!
d. Connecting to computer
--------------------------------------

There are a few choices.

i. You can connect the camera to the computer using an Ethernet (LAN)
wire. In some cases, you can also get the electrical power to the
camera in this way (Power Over Ethernet, or PoE). This is probably the
best way to do it if you constructing your new home and can place
wires wherever you want.

If I was wiring up a new construction, I'd just pull Cat-5e everywhere
(or Cat-6 if I was feeling particularly flush). You can run network
over it, phone, power, alarm, and with the appropriate baluns,
composite, S-, component, and VGA video. Obviously you won't be running
ALL of them over ONE wire... but using all Cat-5e/6 instead of running a
mix-and-match of, say, network, coax, two-pair, bell, etc., gives you a
lot more future flexibility, and the ability to double-up in some cases:
for example, you could run one wire to your front door, an run your
alarm door switch on it, along with power, video and audio for a "video
enterphone". (And yes, there are reasons not to do this, which I'm sure
folks here will be happy to jump in with... just noting that it IS
possible and using it as an example.)
ii. If you already have electrical power near the camera but no
Ethernet wire, it's likely better to just get a wireless Ethernet
camera (WiFi) and wirelessly connect it to your 802.11g wireless
network router.

Works well, as long as you remember WiFi's limitations in distance and
transmitting through building materials.
iii. The easiest method for existing homes, however, appears to be
HomePlug Technology. Basically, you connect your camera to your
computer via your home's A-C power wiring. A USB adapter is plugged in
near and connected to your PC and your camera. Somehow, the video
signal moves through your wiring. Amazing. (Although I guess the video
signal moving through the air is amazing too, when you think about
it.) Logitech has a subsidiary called WiLife that sells stylish
cameras that connect to your computer like this.

I've not used these specifically, but many years ago, I used a friend's
14.4k modem setup that operated this way.
e. Recording
------------------
Here is the key part. Some cameras like the Logitech WiLife simply
record to your computer hard drive. Which is okay as long as the
burglars don't steal your computer.



1. I'd like to know if there exists a software that would record still
images (frames) to my hard drive AND upload the images to my web
server (where I have 1 GB of space). That way, even if the burglars
take my computer, their image already be safely saved on my web
server, hundreds of miles away.

There are several. Some IP cameras even have this functionality
built-in. The IQeye series of cameras from IQinvision
(http://www.iqeye,com), for example, can upload images directly to a
specified FTP server, as well as email them to a specified address. No
DVR, no special software required. It doesn't even require a local
computer - just plug the camera into an internet connection. And they
do make armored dome cameras, as well as larger armored domes designed
to fit their "box" cameras.

These are professional-level cameras, mind you, and IQ's are 1.3MP and
up - much higher quality (see a full-size 1.3MP shot here:
http://www.lps-cctv.com/contentimage/products/hd/test1-cam3.jpg), but of
course, also higher cost. There are many other "professional" grade
makers, of course, such as Panasonic, Bosch, GE, National, Capture, and
so on; the IQs are the ones I use, so I'm familiar with them.
2. Related question: Can one mix and match software for any of the
major cameras (WiLife, Dlink, Lynksys, Axis, etc.).

That depends. The software provided by a specific manufacturer with
their camera, usually not. Third-party software tends to have support
for multiple different brands and models of cameras. Most cameras also
have a web-based control interface, though, so software is not required
for configuring them. The IQeye's remote-sending options, for example,
are all configured through its web interface.
 
J

Jim

Jan 1, 1970
0
I would like to set up a camera (or two) to record the (1) front door
and (2) back door of my suburban house. Here is what I have learned so
far. I hope this helps people trying to get a sense of how this all
works.

I have have a question at the end about saving video / image files to
the Internet.
Here's some thoughts on your post:

So with cameras used as an alarm system do you think that you just
might wind up with some real neat videos of complete strangers
trashing your house? What's the point? You're hoping that your going
to get burglarized by someone you know? How would your camera system
deter anyone from simply covering their faces while they robbed you
blind.



You can disguise out door cameras by putting them in decorations such
as hanging baskets, or bird houses.
Video is "better" if they don't know it's there. It's not a sole
solution.

Cameras mounted indoors looking out of windows that are not mounted
with the lens flush up against the glass will at sometime during the
day or night (due to headlights or streetlights etc) give reflections
that will obliterate the the view. With an infra red camera, it will
definitely reflect all the time, at night, if not up flush with the
glass.

Indoor cameras can store some rather personal moments as you tend to
forget they are there.

I hope you are considering installing an alarm system rather than
depending solely on this camera system.

IP cameras are very expensive.
 
C

Crash Gordon

Jan 1, 1970
0
you forget to mention that if you're lucky you may have some pretty pix of
the guys that stole your stuff...maybe including the cameras and dvr...but
what then? Call CSI to investigate? Hah!



--
**Crash Gordon**
 
T

Tom Metro

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thumper said:
I'm not sure if I want an outdoor cam or if it will be easier to place
one at the window and have it peer outside.

I'd opt for an indoor camera if you can achieve the desired view from
behind a window. I'd put the lens right up to the glass and/or enclose
the camera in an opaque box to address the reflection issue others
mentioned.

Some camera have audio. Some don't. I don't see the need...

For your application of monitoring a door, perhaps not. If you're
monitoring an interior of a building remotely, having audio will let you
check that there aren't any unexpected sounds occurring, like glass
breaking, a smoke alarm going off, etc.

Motion detection is usually a function of the computer software you
install with whatever camera you buy.

Some of the inexpensive IP cameras now have built-in motion detection
that apparently works pretty good.

1. I'd like to know if there exists a software that would record still
images (frames) to my hard drive AND upload the images to my web
server...

As another poster mentioned, some IP cameras have the ability to upload
stills or video clips via FTP. I've seen this on several fairly low-end
models.

There are also camera monitoring services available, which can provide
remote viewing and archiving of your video.

2. Related question: Can one mix and match software for any of the
major cameras (WiLife, Dlink, Lynksys, Axis, etc.).

I ran across ZoneMinder (http://www.zoneminder.com/) for Linux. It can
handle cameras from multiple vendors. They claim any camera that can
provide an MJPEG stream or JPEG still will work. They have drivers to
control the pan/tilt on a bunch of different models. Given some
additional hardware and software, it can also handle analog cameras.


I happen to have been researching low-cost IP cameras this past weekend,
and the TRENDnet family of cameras
(http://trendnet.com/products/products.asp?cat=48) seem to be among the
best reviewed. They range from $70 to $300 depending on the combination
of features: wired/wireless, night illumination, audio, pan/tilt. Most
offer MPEG4 streaming in addition to MJPEG, which takes up less network
bandwidth.

The TRENDnet cameras all run Linux and have a mostly identical software
feature set, that includes stuff like the ability to record video to a
Windows or Linux file server, FTP upload, snapshots via email, dynamic
DNS support, UPnP, and built-in motion detection. A few models have USB
ports and will record stills to a flash drive.

These cameras appear to be manufactured by a Taiwanese company
(http://www.sparklan.com/) and sold by several vendors with different
enclosures, but nearly identical features, such as Zonet
(http://www.zonetusa.com/), Gadspot (http://www.gadspot.com/), and others.

-Tom
 
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