Maker Pro
Maker Pro

Marshall "1962" from 1993

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N Cook

Jan 1, 1970
0
Working order but for bad pot, but some things are not pucker.
One of the dual 50uF, 500V can caps has a dent, obviously not causing a
problem but leave as is, replace or try "panel-beating" outwards with some
jubillee clips and leather circumferential compression or some other
technique?
Where in the UK to obtain such replacement caps?

The main carying handles, presumably original as no other holes, are just
held with woodscrews into thin carcass wood, splintered away internally, as
no pilot holes drilled, - replace with nuts/washers and bolts?
 
A

Arfa Daily

Jan 1, 1970
0
N Cook said:
Working order but for bad pot, but some things are not pucker.
One of the dual 50uF, 500V can caps has a dent, obviously not causing a
problem but leave as is, replace or try "panel-beating" outwards with some
jubillee clips and leather circumferential compression or some other
technique?
Where in the UK to obtain such replacement caps?

The main carying handles, presumably original as no other holes, are just
held with woodscrews into thin carcass wood, splintered away internally,
as
no pilot holes drilled, - replace with nuts/washers and bolts?
Are the handles not working then ? Presumably, if they are, and have been
fixed like it for 14 years, then there are no good reasons that I can see,
for changing the mounting method.

Personally, as far as the caps go, I'd invoke that good old maxim "If it
ain't broke, don't fix it ! ". Just relieve the owner of a suitable amount
of money for sorting his pot problem, and move on to the next one. It's
called having a commercial business model, and is what's needed to ensure
that you can pay your bills, and get away for a rest a couple of times a
year ...

Arfa
 
E

Eeyore

Jan 1, 1970
0
N said:
Working order but for bad pot, but some things are not pucker.

You mean pukka actually.

Pucker is what you do with your lips.

Graham
 
N

N Cook

Jan 1, 1970
0
Arfa Daily said:
Are the handles not working then ? Presumably, if they are, and have been
fixed like it for 14 years, then there are no good reasons that I can see,
for changing the mounting method.

Personally, as far as the caps go, I'd invoke that good old maxim "If it
ain't broke, don't fix it ! ". Just relieve the owner of a suitable amount
of money for sorting his pot problem, and move on to the next one. It's
called having a commercial business model, and is what's needed to ensure
that you can pay your bills, and get away for a rest a couple of times a
year ...

Arfa

My brief was for the pot and bias adj, and any potential safety or
reliability problems.
He uses a number of Marshalls but this one, recently aquired, came with no
known history so safety was the main concern.
The screws that hold the main lifting handles have very jagged exposed
head-slots as though the windy driver( or bad human) slipped on driving each
one, so I will replace with bolts for that reason alone.
Owner is in the habit of going around with switch cleaner for the jack
sockets so I will beef up the contact closing force on all those.
Finally there is the ridiculous system of casters on these sort of Marshall
cabs. It is quite possible for all 4 casters to end up pointing inwards so
the slightest of tugs on a guitar lead will pull the cab over. A 9 inch deep
cab is then relying on just a 4 inch wide wobbly footprint but still 26
inches high. Especially if used on a carpet.

Anyone tried canting over each of the casters by replacing 2 srews of the 4,
with longer ones and a spacer under the caster mount for those 2.?
Jacking up the innermost edge of each caster which will also reduce the gap
under the cab.
So the self weight should bias the casters to pointing outwards when at rest
, for maximum stability. For normal in line carriage then the change of
orientation , via the cant, would have to lift the cab and hopefully that
self weight at rest would return the casters to outwards position. To turn
inwards would mean itself, unassisted, increasing the height of the cab at
that corner so unlikely. Or will normal pushing motion become
uncontrollable? i will see tomorrow with a rejig and test run
 
N

N Cook

Jan 1, 1970
0
Dent "pulling" with a couple of Jubilee clips does work to a large extent
but not total and you need to wrap a piece of thin sleel plate around the
leather. Both leaving a gap to see the dent. The steel to cover the area
where the clip ring enters into the clasp and contracts on tightening or the
aluminium can will be deformed inwards at that point as the leather will not
slip over the can.

The canted casters work well.
They are not the original , part recessed ones, presumbly busted off years
ago and replaced with standard hardware store ones.
http://home.graffiti.net/diverse:graffiti.net/casters.jpg
Propping up on one edge with doubled up rubber feet used for kit, so 4 to
each caster. Uncompressed feet stand off height 13mm .
Original gap between base of cab and floor of 169mm and still that with feet
pointing outwards and 183mm if both pointing inwards.
The action to get all 4 feet pointing outwards couild not be easier.
Run the cab on all 4 casters in the longways sense of the cab , go 4 inches
further than required and pull back 4 inches.
The transporting action is worse, in the wayward supermarket trolley sense,
a mind of its own, so perhaps only one rubber foot per standoff rather than
2 or transport using 2 casters and one of the main lifting handles rather
than the top movement handle.
 
N

N Cook

Jan 1, 1970
0
That should have been reference to 69mm and 83mm not 169mm and 183mm
 
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