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Modding a lamp

cards1

Jan 5, 2023
59
Joined
Jan 5, 2023
Messages
59
Hello,

For the series resistor you must use the following value:
R= (Vbatt-Vleds) / Ileds.
Where:
Vbatt is the battery voltage
Vleds is the total forward voltage of the leds
Iled is the wanted current through the leds.

So in your case the resistor will be for a 10 mA current:
(4.5 - 4.2)volts / 0.01 Amp = 30 Ohms

When you remove one led the current will be:
(4.5 - 2.1) Volts / 30 ohms = 0.08 Amp , wich is 80 mA , wich will likely blow the led.

Bertus
thanks!
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
3,658
Joined
Aug 21, 2015
Messages
3,658
Sir cards 1 . . . . .

I was alerted earlier that a post response had been added here . . . . . . . .
now for my continuance . . . . . . . . since it seems that your CARE package of parts is now here. . . .a la
" (hey, i tried to do your method but it didnt worked, i think my soldering skills are bad )"

( Hmmmmmmmmmm . . . . now, does that mean that he is a "drop" solderer or that he has roached his soldering iron tips tinning ? )
My question to that . . . . . is the iron tip now being well tinned and will accept that melted solder freely . . . . or have you left the iron on for too long of a period at a high temperature . . . . . .and then with applied solder to the tip, you then find that it will ball up and melt and drop but will NOT adhere and flow onto the soldering irons tip proper ?
In which case, the tip needs re tinning and then run at just high of a temperature to accomplish soldering.

Back on day one I had no idea of your electronics expertise or any accumulated electronics paraphernalia / parts stock that you might have on hand.
As for the latter . . . I see that you don't even have a pot to pee in . . . . . . . . . parts wise.
Also you are struggling with the electronics basics info given . . .au Martin . . .et al.
Well let me fill you in again and have you refer back to the info in post # 47 right photo, being replicated and having its added on info, and being down below . . . .

LED-Switching-Mod.png


Now, what the board wiring is showing us, by the reading of its foil paths . . . .
Battery 4.5V power enters at " B " and that foil path has one portion that goes up and travels left at the top edge of the board all the way down to Z where it drops down and connects to LED 2's YELLOW wire which end up at the negative / anode of that LED 2 , power will pass thru the LED and come out the positive / cathode of the LED and goes to its WHITE wire and travels down to a 390 0hm current limiting resistor, going to the collector of Y1 driver / switching transistor.
The same is true of the battery + power tie in to Y where it passes up BLACK wire to LED1 and comes out as WHITE wire, which then passes thru the 560 ohm current limiting resistor and also makes connection to Y1 transistors collector.
All that is needed now is a turn on voltage from the u/P to Y1 base to make it conduct and complete the grounding paths for both of those LEDS.

The PINK circles are being solder blob points that could be solder tack on positions of one needed wire or the YELLOW circle area being where you could scrape the resist down to bare copper foil and thereby create an individual / dedicated solder blob for your sole wire connection.
The other battery black negative connection area has a large enough and adequate solder footprint already being present.

Had I known the forthcoming volume of all of the how do I ? questions to come forth from you and your additional "parts" situation back at a VERY earlier time, I would have just given you these one or two alternate procedures.

NEANDERTHAL MODE:
Take a wire and jumper between the two RED arrow lines . . . . . . .OOOOOOOOHHHHHHHHH . . .MMMmmmmmmm . . . . . . . .AAAAhhhhhhhhh . . . . .me make um lights !

CRO MAGNON HIGH TECHISH UPGRADE
Install off-on switch at RED arrow apex X . . . . . . . . . . .MMMMmmmmmmmmm . . . . . . me do magic ! . . . . . turn fire / light on off at a finger snap.
(on demand . . .no less !)

The LED's will now be a sub-micro-smidge brighter, due to having no loss by the Y1 transistors junctions presence.

Looking at the choices time frame of the other array of parts that they used, I am highly suspect of your illumination LED(s) being of the T1 3/4 size profile, as is being shown in the top of drawing inset.


Thaaaaaaaaasssit . . . . . . .
EatingPopcorn.jpg




73's de Edd . . . . . . . . . .

ONE NICE THING ABOUT EGOTISTS . . . . . . . . . THEY DON'T TALK ABOUT OTHER PEOPLE.




.
 
Last edited:

cards1

Jan 5, 2023
59
Joined
Jan 5, 2023
Messages
59
Sir cards 1 . . . . .

I was alerted earlier that a post response had been added here . . . . . . . .
now for my continuance . . . . . . . . since it seems that your CARE package of parts is now here. . . .a la
" (hey, i tried to do your method but it didnt worked, i think my soldering skills are bad )"

( Hmmmmmmmmmm . . . . now, does that mean that he is a "drop" solderer or that he has roached his soldering iron tips tinning ? )
My question to that . . . . . is the iron tip now being well tinned and will accept that melted solder freely . . . . or have you left the iron on for too long of a period at a high temperature . . . . . .and then with applied solder to the tip, you then find that it will ball up and melt and drop but will NOT adhere and flow onto the soldering irons tip proper ?
In which case, the tip needs re tinning and then run at just high of a temperature to accomplish soldering.

Back on day one I had no idea of your electronics expertise or any accumulated electronics paraphernalia / parts stock that you might have on hand.
As for the latter . . . I see that you don't even have a pot to pee in . . . . . . . . . parts wise.
Also you are struggling with the electronics basics info given . . .au Martin . . .et al.
Well let me fill you in again and have you refer back to the info in post # 47 right photo, being replicated and having its added on info, and being down below . . . .

LED-Switching-Mod.png


Now, what the board wiring is showing us, by the reading of its foil paths . . . .
Battery 4.5V power enters at " B " and that foil path has one portion that goes up and travels left at the top edge of the board all the way down to Z where it drops down and connects to LED 2's YELLOW wire which end up at the negative / anode of that LED 2 , power will pass thru the LED and come out the positive / cathode of the LED and goes to its WHITE wire and travels down to a 390 0hm current limiting resistor, going to the collector of Y1 driver / switching transistor.
The same is true of the battery + power tie in to Y where it passes up BLACK wire to LED1 and comes out as WHITE wire, which then passes thru the 560 ohm current limiting resistor and also makes connection to Y1 transistors collector.
All that is needed now is a turn on voltage from the u/P to Y1 base to make it conduct and complete the grounding paths for both of those LEDS.

The PINK circles are being solder blob points that could be solder tack on positions of one needed wire or the YELLOW circle area being where you could scrape the resist down to bare copper foil and thereby create an individual / dedicated solder blob for your sole wire connection.
The other battery black negative connection area has a large enough and adequate solder footprint already being present.

Had I known the forthcoming volume of all of the how do I ? questions to come forth from you and your additional "parts" situation back at a VERY earlier time, I would have just given you these one or two alternate procedures.

NEANDERTHAL MODE:
Take a wire and jumper between the two RED arrow lines . . . . . . .OOOOOOOOHHHHHHHHH . . .MMMmmmmmmm . . . . . . . .AAAAhhhhhhhhh . . . . .me make um lights !

CRO MAGNON HIGH TECHISH UPGRADE
Install off-on switch at RED arrow apex X . . . . . . . . . . .MMMMmmmmmmmmm . . . . . . me do magic ! . . . . . turn fire / light on off at a finger snap.
(on demand . . .no less !)

The LED's will now be a sub-micro-smidge brighter, due to having no loss by the Y1 transistors junctions presence.

Looking at the choices time frame of the other array of parts that they used, I am highly suspect of your illumination LED(s) being of the T1 3/4 size profile, as is being shown in the top of drawing inset.


Thaaaaaaaaasssit . . . . . . .
EatingPopcorn.jpg




73's de Edd . . . . . . . . . .

ONE NICE THING ABOUT EGOTISTS . . . . . . . . . THEY DON'T TALK ABOUT OTHER PEOPLE.




.
i think the iron is bad, at 320 it doesnt melts, i just put it on max temp 520, & use the sides, couse the tip isnt good, also there is smoke when touching the metal, its the cheapest on aliexpress ) but its ok im somehow doing it ) thanks for the help!!
 
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