And just to think, that back in the late 60- early 70's one of my engineering crew was desperate for rent money coming up and was trying to sell both his Hoolet Plastered, state of the art of miniaturization DVM and his Telequipment scope.
His was being the dual channel D54 version of your S54.
Thank goodness that I passed on them . . . . with the HP being a nightmare on its custom chip and on ceramic board construction.
The Telequipment . . .you are finding all out about now.
Seems like back in that timeframe Telequipment was being submarketed by TEK as a cheap alternative.
With the actual commonality, being that they both used RED and BLACK control knobs.
On your diode string of two end 1N4007's and resistor . . . . . was the shorter case diode, just to adjust overall length optimization ?
In my buildup of series string components like that . . .I use the smallest size of modellers hollow brass tubing .
Flux tin it and insert the tinned wire leads within the tubing . . .reflow solder . . .then you have a straight linear joining.
HP Breakthrough . . . at that time . . . .
ADD-ON . . . .
WOW . . . . is that what looks to be a #46 screw in bulb . .6.3V @ 300 ma . .. that is having its TIT soldered to a wire. Then . . . is it dependent upon screwing into that open coil spring "threading" for about 5 turns.
With that then leaving those twists on the wire length attached to the bulb ?
73's de Edd . . . . .
Now I wonder . ? . ? . ? . . . . if I made some wine out of raisins . . . would I have to wait for it to age ?
Unfortunately they are variously listed (on ebay and Tektronix "spares" sites) as 12V or 5V... Bu the schematic looks like this:
I've decided to replace them with orange LEDs rather than white. They are used to edge-light an acrylic sheet with the graticule engraved and coloured orange. At low voltages these bulbs would be more orange than white anyway.
The springs are free to move and simply press into the back of a "cup". You can undo the bulb by holding the spring, and twisting the bulb a little before allowing the bulb to rotate (along with the spring) back to it's original orientation, then rinse and repeat until you can easily turn the spring. As photographed, the bulb was almost pulled out to the full length of the wire!
Oh, and that other bulb is a neon bulb. It seems to be used as both a power on indicator and a voltage regulator.
There's not a lot of room to replace those lamps with LEDs, so I might make a strip of surface mount LEDs... later.
Another issue is that after reading the in-circuit values of many of these carbon composition resistors, about half read higher than the rated value. The worst I found was a 330K resistor reading over 1M. I really don't want to replace all of those resistors! And... I'd have to remove the board.
Oh well. If I have to, then I have to. I may be able to get away with just removing the CRT.
Should I power it up as it is now? I'm leaning toward yes. It's been on before, so I'm unlikely to do any more damage.
Also, it's clear that someone thought that cleaning the pots was the cure for everything. The inside is almost completely covered in oil (WD50?). I might clean the board with IPA before I turn it on again. I'm not sure it's a real problem, but it's certainly annoying.
WD-50 . . . . . IS . . . . . being the excess use of WD-40. . . . .however, with being in that state now, it certainly is being a nice / effective fly repellent !
In the parts list it is shown as a 14V bulb and with that 0.75W spec, with its 53/4ma current consumption . . . and if HAVING to use an incandescent lamp . . that would be your power saving choice of lamp.
The vertical position doesn't change with the vertical gain any more.
The width of the trace doesn't vary with time.
But the "brilliance" is fixed, and I can't get a better focus than shown (but I can do a lot worse).
Also the cal signal is 50Hz, which is line frequency. And the amplitude is low.
Here is a signal from something I have handy...
The time is off by about 20% but the vertical gain looks close -- hard to tell from this waveform since my meter reads RMS values. The signal is 0.55V RMS, and that corresponds to about 1.5V probably, and the vertical amplifier is set to 0.1V/div using a 10x probe.
Surprisingly there's enough adjustment range in the "set speed" control to bring the time base closer to what it should be.
The first step is to check the power supply. If it's doing something wrong then lots of stuff can be affected.
Lots of high voltages, and my meter read up to 1000VAC and 500VDC :-(
Not to worry, not everything needs to be measured with respect to ground. But placing the meter's ground lead into the -1000V rail does make one somewhat cautious...
Here's the results:
The unit is set for 250VAC and my Variac is set for 250VAC. The AC voltages in the secondary read a little low but not enough for me to worry about.
All the rails I can measure look pretty good. I measured the voltages across C409, C411, and C412 individually. With the meter's ground lead at point 41 I could measure C409, then I moved the ground lead to between C411 & C412 to measure them. Unfortunately (but maybe fortuitously) I left the ground lead in this position while measuring the grid and focus voltages.
The first odd thing I discovered was that the voltage at point 52 (grid voltage) did not vary. That's not too surprising because the "brilliance" control is totally ineffective. This was also the point I noted the ground lead was still between the two capacitors. A quick calculation showed the voltage at point 52 was really close to the -1000V rail, far closer than I would expect (and that was odd).
On moving the ground lead to the -1000V rail, I discovered that the voltage across D301 was 0V! I also noted that there was a lot more muck around this pot than the others. (Perhaps this was a WD60 amount!!! :-D). It seems that someone had tried LOTS of cleaning of this pot when the problem looks to be a shorted zener diode (or maybe a shorted cap -- less likely).
I'm pretty sure I have some high voltage zeners, but the placement of this component is going to make replacement really hard. Perhaps this goes on top of the board like the caps too.
And I just happen to have some 100V 3W zeners. The original is a 330mW. I may be about to add some safety margin
Oh, and a good thing about this scope is that the caps discharge by themselves in about a minute.
Another thing of happened while I was checking voltages. At one point the trace suddenly shrunk to about half the width of the display. I may have a dry joint to find, it fixed itself up again a few minutes later.
I was just observing the highly erose surface of the printed knob and since you were going to print again, I was going to suggest that you make it larger in diameter in orderr to be able to rotary WET and dry sand it to a smoother surface.
However due to either a choice of too large of a diameter /gauge of plastic filament OR inadequate heat level for attaining a FULL,fusing and flow together, I don't think that would be fully successfull.
Probably, being with a result much akin to trying to sand a honeycomb or wasp nest smooth.
If being my puppy to recreate, I would be using clear resin and hardener casting liquid as is used in fibreglass work on boats and Corvettes bodywork.
Black and red tinting or powder added and a mold of an original knob being made of wax or silicone rubber molding liquid.
Looking at the fracture manner and pattern I was expecting either bakelite or styrene family of the original knob, but that now looks like the styrene family of materiel being used on the original knobs, 10 years further back and the bakelite was more likely to have been used.
73's de Edd . . . . .
The difference between art and science is that if some absolute piece of shit WORKS as art, you DON'T have to explain why, BUT, that's DEFINITELY not being so in science.