Maker Pro
Maker Pro

Newbie: tips on how to start?


Cydrome Leader

Jan 1, 1970
Michael A. Terrell said:
Wimp. I've worked with techs who would reach out and touch the
second anode lead with their bare hand to test for high voltage.

What's this second anode?

Jasen Betts

Jan 1, 1970
It would be simpler to make sure you can't cut the cord with the saw.

This is a handheld critular saw. a cord short enough to be
intrinsically safe isn't long enough to be useful.

But, yeah, definately more care would have helped.

--- news:// - complaints: [email protected] ---
I've never seen a battery operated saw I would buy. :(

I have a 9.6V 3-3/8" Makita circular saw that worked great on cedar siding. I
could even use it while on the ladder. I resided my house in VT with it. It
paid for itself in that one job but I haven't found much other use for it.

A couple of years ago I bought an 18V 6-1/2" Dewalt circular saw. It's *very*
useful. I've used it to cut down several sheets of 3/4" ply.
Usenet is hosted on multiple servers around the world. A 'Forum' is
hosted on a single machine, or a single, small server farm.

Care to give a citation for that definition? A forum is simply a (place for)
public discussion.


Jan 1, 1970
This isn't a forum, it's a newsgroup.

The two aren't mutually exclusive; in fact, the latter is a subset of the

The word "forum" has been around far longer than the internet, or
computers, or even electricity. It refers to any "place" which exists for

On the internet, that includes newsgroups, mailing lists, and IRC
channels, as well as Web-based fora (or "forums" for people who don't
believe in etymology).
I have rarely ever been where it was difficult to get AC for a
regular saw, so by the time I needed one again, the batteries would be

It's not usually difficult to get AC for my cordless drills, either. It's
very convenient that I don't have to, though. OTOH, cordless saws are more
marginal, but the later models are still useful. Like I said, I use mine to
cut down sheet goods, though I just bought a more precise (corded) saw for
this purpose.

Many times the getting an extension cord out and putting it away is more
hassle than the rest of the "project" (e.g. hanging pictures or curtain rods).
Cordless tools are great for these small "projects".
A short cord is easier to get in your way. You need the cord behind
you as you cut, so you can pull it behind the saw. I've seen a lot of
people run it the other direction, and cut it.

The only cord I've cut recently was on my router. I cut it as I was putting
the router down after a cut. I don't even think it was spinning when I sliced
the cord, though that didn't stop it from sparking. :-/

I thought the cord had a special molded strain relief so I ordered the exact
replacement. Turns out that the strain relief just slipped over an ordinary
line cord; a $35 lesson.
I have 100' extension cords hanging on the walls of the shops, right
next to the doors. I leave them plugged in, and just lift off the
number of loops I need. They are about 5' per loop so it's easy to see
what I need. I generally use the cordless drills to work on computers,
and the regular drills for most other work. Like the 1/2" hammer drill
with a 1" masonry bit. :)

The only corded drill I own is a 1/2" hammer drill. I have ten cordless ones,
One for every room in the house?

They accumulate. ;-) Actually, I included both driver/drills.

9.6/12V Makita (old, but it still works)
9.6V Makita right angle (batteries for above)
14.4V PC - Still works but I killed one set of batteries
18V Dewalt
12V Dewalt - wanted something lighter
18V Dewalt compact - was cheaper than the batteries that came with it
12V Bosch Impactor - Impact driver
12V Bosch Driver - freebie with Impactor (not terribly useful)
12V Bosch Drill - so impressed with the Impactor that I bought its brother
18V(2) Harbor Freight - borrowing bait (absolute junk)

If I didn't have any I'd buy at least four of them today.