Sir Moe . . . . .
i meant i bought a speaker
¿ Does . . . that . . . speaker relate to it being used for either of the two speakers that the soundbar uses ?
Since I'm basically NOT knowing NUTTIN' here . . . . in relating to your units time of failure, was it just working totally normally one day and then the next time that you TURNED it on, it doesn't work for you ?
I want to weed out if this is not just being a new out in the street curb find or a pig in a poke garage find sale item, found in this current state, that you are just now attempting to fix..
If this unit is being your originally purchased and a working unit and was last working, and then at your next attempt of use, it no workee, there is a dual possibility.
One, is being that you turned on the unit and then there was the EASILY heard BANG- BANG of the two caps EXPLODING .
But . . . BUT . . . BUT
. . . there is ALSO a like possibility, that this BIG BANG-BANG
happened when you were not even home, because I FULLY think that this units, earlier mentioned, power supply section, circuit board, runs in standby power mode 24 hrs a day and only REALLY turns on to full power with your command from the units frontal power pushbutton or remote control . So its fuse may now be blown.
NEXT HOW DID THOSE TWO E-caps, EACH BEING IN SEPARATE SUPPLY LOOPS, GET SUCH A TREMENDOUS JOLT TO TOTALLY DESTROY THEM ?
S0 . . . what is your power line voltage 120 or 220 VAC ?
Have you had any power outages or other electrical items / lamps failures in the household . . . . or had any close lightning bolt hits to your houses AC line power pole ?
Your sole circuit board portion being involved with now, is not associated with causing . . . .BOTH . . .of your two GREEN E-caps to explode.
FUNCTIONALITY . . .
The far right GREEN
E-cap cap is associated with initially filtering that boards +5VDC logic supply works. ( There is even a possiblity of it then branching off and a creating of sub 3.3 and 1.8 V supplies. )
The central GREEN
E-cap is associated with a higher voltage level main supply, principally associated with the Class D power amplifier portion.
. . . and INITIALLY
. . . . there is being heavy filtering being provided for those supplies on the output section of the switch mode power supply board which feeds into this board.
Take a look around . . . at all of this boards mid section, particularly ( the just off center) cluster of large E-caps and the few larger peripheral ones, then find the largest voltage rated one, and figure that to be the safe voltage level choice for that left GREEN E-cap, which is not going to be at any higher than that voltage level.
With the GREEN
right E-cap for the 5VDC supply we might expect it to be a 10 or 15 VDC rating.
Also . . .repeating my earlier second request . . . get the ID from the top of that IC1? . . . 36 pinner . . .so its data can be researched for its nominal operating voltage level . . . also the second request for the possibility of a wattage spec being marked on the speakers.
We need to educate a guess on the potential of the voltgae and current requirement of the most power hungry portion on that board . . . . the audio output . section . . if so cranked up.
DOINGITTOIT . . . . .
Do you have 60-90w*** soldering iron + rosin fluxed 60-40 electrical solder and experience making joints and a digital DVM or analog unit for voltage-current-ohms analysis ?
(*** Better, an adequate irons heat to take on heat sinking and get right up to solder-temp and then GETAWAY IN A HURRY. . . . .rather than the inadequate heat of a 40 or so watt unit that is interim burning up the board/components in TRYING to get up to a solder flow temperature ! )
Thaaaaaaaassit . . .
73's de Edd. . . . .