For future reference, it's best to give make and model of your Control Panel (not the Keypad) when posting questions, Kudos for naming the model, XRSuper6; the Maker is
DMP. If you search "
DMP XRSuper6", it's more effective than just "XRSuper6".
The bad news is that DMP is one of those proprietary brands that are not DIY-friendly; in fact, they're downright hostile to DIYers in re programming. You will not be able to make the Control Panel "forget" any of the zones without an expensive service call from the installing dealer.
The good news is that I
F your missing zones are among the 10 on-board zones (zones 1 thru 10) landed (connected) on the Control Panel (CP) terminal strip along the bottom of the PCB, then the hardware is pretty much universal and an easy fix.
Link to installer manual:
https://buy.dmp.com/dmp/products/documents/LT-0624.pdf
Look at the wiring diagram to see to which terminals on the bottom of PCB your missing zones are connected. This is still assuming the zones in question are numbered 1 thru 10. Note that zones 1 thru 9 share a common ground, but Zone 10 had two dedicated polarized terminals. I'm not going to explain this unless you ask or tell me Z10 is one of the problem zones. There's usually no preference as to polarity on the zone loop for zones 1 thru 9, but the GND is negative.
EDIT: Rating of the 1K Resistors can be 1/8 W or even less. Those zone loops are current-limited to a few miliamps at most. There's no upper Watt rating if you have larger resistors handy.
For future reference, when you have problems zones, it's best to NAME WHICH ZONE(S): Not all zones are the same. Also it wouldn't hurt to mention if the zones are doors, windows, or motion or glassbreak sensors, etc; so that I know if we need to worry about a 12VDC power wire that may have been severed during remodeling. I've seen unused-but-live power wires sit in walls for years before one day shorting out and causing problems.
Still assuming that we're working with zones numbered between 1 and 9: Determine where the problem zones are connected, and disconnect said zone loop wires. Note that other zones may share a common GND terminal, so be sure not to disconnect the GND wire from a working zone. You should be able to follow the (+) wire to find its matcihing GND/(-) side in the Control Panel cabinet.
If you're lucky, the installer put the EOLRs (End-of-Line Resistors) in the cabinet (box) so you have them handy. If not, you'll need to buy a 1K-Ohm resistor to bridge between each zone and GND. This makes your control panel happy that the zone is properly "Normal", and you'll be able to Arm/Disarm without going through the Bypass Procedure each Arming period.
Your CP is capable of handling a lot more than 10 zones, using zone expansion modules. If one or more of your problem zones is numbered higher than 10, then let me know and I'll do the homework needed to see if you can do anything about it. More than ten zones would imply that you have one or more extra zone expansion modules at/near the CP, and I'd need (a) model number(s) for it(them).
For future consideration, if you ever need to replace your CP: I strongly recommend you buy a DIY-friendly make and model, e.g. a Honeywell / Ademco Vista-20P, that lets you (the User) stay in control of your system without being dependent on a dealer for programming.