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pcb toner transfer

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mikegw

Jan 1, 1970
0
I am currently faffing around making pcbs using the toner transfer method,
various sources around the web use glossy laser printer paper. The best I
have found in my limited search in Aus is "colotech super gloss" (part
number 40L32245). Has anyone else tried this method here and if so what
paper do you recommend?

Cheers

Mike
 
D

Daniel Watman

Jan 1, 1970
0
I have had pretty good success with Celcast inkjet coated paper, printing on
the glossy side. The toner doesnt stick very hard so it peels off easily
after ironing and soaking in water for a few mins.

I think I got it from DSE ages ago, don't know if they still have it.

-Daniel
 
M

mikegw

Jan 1, 1970
0
Daniel Watman said:
I have had pretty good success with Celcast inkjet coated paper, printing on
the glossy side. The toner doesnt stick very hard so it peels off easily
after ironing and soaking in water for a few mins.

I think I got it from DSE ages ago, don't know if they still have it.

-Daniel
That is not the photo stuff is it?

I foolishly put a bit of glossy inkjet stuff in the printer at
work............

Mike
 
D

Daniel Watman

Jan 1, 1970
0
mikegw said:
printing
That is not the photo stuff is it?

I foolishly put a bit of glossy inkjet stuff in the printer at
work............

Mike

Its supposedly photo paper but really it just has a bit of a coating on it
to stop the ink spreading I think. Not the full glossy stuff.

-Daniel
 
L

Lord-Data

Jan 1, 1970
0
I'm pretty sure Officeworks carries something suitable too ..
 
M

Mark Hathaway

Jan 1, 1970
0
Hello Mike,

Computronics in WA http://www.computronics.com.au/kinsten/prices/ have laser
and bubble jet films, though I never had any great results with them.

I use the Kinsten positive presensitized boards, and using my own UV light
box I can simply print my artwork onto plain paper, face the image onto the
board (so artwork has been mirrored) and I get perfect results, the paper is
transparent enough to the UV spectrum and the Brother laser toner I use is
reflective enough to achieve great results with super small SMD work. I took
me a fair bit of trial and error, I'm using six of the 15w NEC UV tubes
(part number FL15BL) spaced only 2mm apart to get these results (close
spacing eliminates shadows). The UV emitting tubes reach their peak output
after 30 minutes of warm up. I now get better results with this setup then
the real Kinsten exposure box a previous employer owned, though exposure
times are much longer, with paper you will need 10-20 minutes of exposure,
compared to 1-5 minutes when using transparent film.

link to NEC tubes: http://www.nelt.co.jp/nhe_hp/special/special.htm I
purchased the NEC tubes for about 8 bucks each from the local Middys
http://www.middys.com.au/


Enjoy,

Mark Hathaway
 
D

Darren Chan

Jan 1, 1970
0
Press n peel blue.
You print on it with a laser printer, then iron it onto the pcb. You then
etch and voila, circuitboard. You can buy it at jaycar.
use it all the time and less hassle than photoresist!
 
W

Wing Fong Wong

Jan 1, 1970
0
Darren Chan said:
Press n peel blue.
You print on it with a laser printer, then iron it onto the pcb. You then
etch and voila, circuitboard. You can buy it at jaycar.
use it all the time and less hassle than photoresist!

I use it all the time too. It work great so long as the lines aren't too
fine.
They are fine down to about 0.6mm or so. I haven't tried it for lines
finer than that. It costs about $30 for 5 A4 sheets.
 
M

Mikegw

Jan 1, 1970
0
Press n peel blue.
I use it all the time too. It work great so long as the lines aren't too
fine.
They are fine down to about 0.6mm or so. I haven't tried it for lines
finer than that. It costs about $30 for 5 A4 sheets.

Therein lies the point, for 5 A4 sheets of PnP you can get 100 sheets (at
least) of coated 'normal' laser printer paper.

Thus far my results have been moderate. I have a board with some surface
mount resistors/caps and 3 dip packages done using inkjet OHP sheets in a
laser printer. The cost of these sheets was somewhere south of $6 a sheet!

I realise the PnP is better but I have found reports of success using normal
papers. The problem is that the papers refered to are sourced in the USA.


Mike
 
A

Andrew Tweddle

Jan 1, 1970
0
Mikegw said:
Therein lies the point, for 5 A4 sheets of PnP you can get 100 sheets (at
least) of coated 'normal' laser printer paper.

Thus far my results have been moderate. I have a board with some surface
mount resistors/caps and 3 dip packages done using inkjet OHP sheets in a
laser printer. The cost of these sheets was somewhere south of $6 a sheet!

I realise the PnP is better but I have found reports of success using normal
papers. The problem is that the papers refered to are sourced in the USA.


Mike
Have you tried TIME magazine as the transfer paper?

Andrew
 
Y

Yoong Ping, Lim

Jan 1, 1970
0
urgent

i am living in melb and is a student.

i am doing up a pcb for a project, i am willing to pay for a meagre fee for
pcb fab. i will send you the artwork.

please advice.
 
M

Morris Odell

Jan 1, 1970
0
mikegw said:
I am currently faffing around making pcbs using the toner transfer method,
various sources around the web use glossy laser printer paper. The best I
have found in my limited search in Aus is "colotech super gloss" (part
number 40L32245). Has anyone else tried this method here and if so what
paper do you recommend?

I've been using Epson Photo Paper No S041140 for years. It's available
from Officeworks. Works perfectly and there's no plastic layer to melt
and stuff up your printer or PCB.

Morris
 
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