Perpetual moving sticks

[FrenchConnection67]

I am an electro technician and have great knowledge in electrics and automation but have just the basics in electronic circuit because nowadays, we just replace boards in my trade and dont bother repairing to PCBs. This is unfortunate because It is so interesting!

Presentation done, I have ordered perpetual sticks from aliexpress and they arrived faulty. I would like to repair it because I already got the refund for it.

Could you please have a quick look at the circuit and let me know if you have an idea on how this system works. I am not entirely sure but suspect that the system has three electro magnets, one central and two on the sides but their orientations would make their respective magnetic fields push or pull the swinging stick. Or perhaps but It sounds a bit too much elaborated system....the circuit would change the magnetic fields from positive to negative as the stick swings with the help of a hall sensor. But this is just my thinking, however that latter system seems to sketchy to me as you would have to find the right timing.

My questions:

Is there any way to build an easier circuit to make this works?

Or shall Have a go and repair that circuit? Any diagrams, info, guidances are welcome



Thanks

 

[Nanren888]

perpetual sticks?
A link to what it is & what it does?

 

[FrenchConnection67]

Here is a link. It is a fake perpetual motion machine. I say fake because perpetual motion machine actually do not exist. You always need an energy source somehow. And on this one, we have 4 AA batteries.

 

[Martaine2005]

The page here gives some reasons for it not to work. Might be worth a read.


Martin

 

[Nanren888]

It will have sensor(s) & actuator(s).
Can you indicate where the parts you illustrate come from in the structure?

 

[FrenchConnection67]

The page here gives some reasons for it not to work. Might be worth a read.


Martin

Thanks for the info. Batteries are full. The sticks are secured in place. The sticks are aligned

 

[FrenchConnection67]

It will have sensor(s) & actuator(s).
Can you indicate where the parts you illustrate come from in the structure?

Yes sure. The electromagnet is located in the base in the center and aligned with the longer stick which has a magnet on its end. Please refer to picture.

 

[FrenchConnection67]

Here is a link. It is a fake perpetual motion machine. I say fake because perpetual motion machine actually do not exist. You always need an energy source somehow. And on this one, we have 4 AA batteries.

that youtube video is actually quite good to understand how it works. Only found out today myself. Therefore there are only one electromagnet in the center and two hall sensors on each side which detects the velocity of the swinging stick due to its magnet on the end. The chip regulates the pulse sent to the electromagnet when it reaches the maximum velocity to prevent it to go out of control. Quite smart to be honest.

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir FrenchConnection67 . . . . .


As my electro-mechanical analytical skillset seems to be telling me, is this being its manner of operation?

Initially watch this video referencing . . . .

SWINGING STICKS . . . .

There one sees the random rotational actions of two asymmetrical balanced beams, transitioning their positions randomly.

The small boom is gravitationally balanced to such a fine degree of accuracy, that it has almost a 5O/50 chance of not repeating its direction of rotation, when initially released from a level initial static positioning.
Micro spot removal of metal from its longest leg accomplishes this feat.
Then the feat is repeated by accomplishing the same degree of balance with the longer beam balances long protrusion.

Then refer to the central tri coil board, where there are two matching pick up coils and a central positioned open air wound, magnetic driving coil.
Since the randomness of the long arm legs direction of travel can come in from either direction, coils placed on either side, cover that unknown aspect.

START UP . . . .

You start up the unit, being positioned as shown for initial start up and as the, now moving, long end of the largest beam balance comes into a critical positioning with the sensing coil that it will be passing towards, it induces a voltage level, to then be uber amplified and activating a one shot pulse generator.
That drives a power amplifying FET ? to then, send a fierce pulse to that central coil . It is being of such a precise duration, so that it stops just short of bottom dead center alignment of the arm, referencing to the center of that driving coil.

Now you can test for that operational integrity , by tracing the above paths and use of an oscilloscope . . . . . or if you are the extreme end of that spectrum and don't even have the simplest of test equipment and don't even have "a pot to pee in"..
Instead, use the ultra simplistic " touchy -feely" techno procedure of your holding a round(ical)- cylindrical . . . . Samarium Cobalt . .or .Neobeeeedddddddddeeeeeeneee-yum-yum or ceramic magnet betwixt index finger and thumb .
Bring one end right up to the side of the , large central pulsing electromagnet.
Your right hand moves a 1/4 in drill bit towards and then / close over / and across one of the sensing electromagnets tops.
Then you power up and try that sequence, if all is being well, you will be able to feel that generated impulse, with the feel of your finger- thumb.
Then test the other sensing electromagnet for the same effect.

If no result then we need the numbering from both of your 8 pin U1 and U2 I.C.'s for starters.

Thaaaaaaaassssssssssit . . . . . .

With the two references and side coils being used on the units that I see, I see no . . . .

two hall sensors on each side which detects the velocity of the swinging stick due to its magnet on the end.


73's de Edd . . . . .




The Top Bunk Bed :
Is where you should NEVER put a child wearing their Superman jammies..


.

 

[FrenchConnection67]

Sir 73's de Edd,

Thanks for taking time to answer and provide a quick but thorough analysis. In terms of the sensing coils (And not hall sensors! Felt a bit schooled on that comment . But hey, ho....might be what I was asking for when you adventure yourself outside of your confort zone on forums). My only testing equiment is a multimeter. I dont have an oscilloscope I am afraid as I dont need it in my day to day job. I have great understanding of fault finding as I have repaired automatic doors for the last twenty years though so I am not a complete newbie neither. Just missing out on the electronic side of it.

Testing: I have tested the system by swinging a magnet above the sensing coils to see if the central electromagnet would get a pulse but it just seems dead. it just seems that the fault lies somewhere within the control circuit. Perhaps one of the ICs.

I am on two mind of trying to repair it or jut start from scratch and create a simpler circuit. I have seen a few youtube videos where guys have built one of those swinging sticks from scratch and the circuit looks pretty simply. the reference on the ICs is GS8522 KFQ00025 and the youtube video below.

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir FrenchConnection67 . . . . . en France . . . . .( Bone Jower Mon -sewer . . . . .and thats with heeeeeeeveeeeeey implied emphasis on the sewer aspect)

I've dodged the shadows / shadings / and light reflections and magged up definition, to the onset of pixelation threshold, so I now need your OHMMETER and learned / eagle like eyes upon the board for confirmations . . . . or . . .that's not so's.

MARK UP . . . . .
Moderators, kinde Sires, do not fully host this image yet, as I may need to make corrections . . . . dependent upon Frenchies feedback . . . .I am using this off site hosting in the interim.
https://i.ibb.co/qg7gBDb/Walking-Sticks-Driver-Board.png

RED AND GREEN LEAD INPUT WIRE CONNECTIONS . . . . . .TESTING

Have no battery cells installed . . .for a non power applied test.
Initially . . . .
Take OHMMETER and put in its lowest OHMS range and short test leads together to confirm what meter reading is showing with a dead short.

Hopefully that is being a blob of vinyl / hot glue surrounding the connections,that pops off . . . . . or readings / connections can be made from the bottom.
OHM out from GREEN wire to Ground Plane 5 markup . . . .with TEST PROBE TIP PIERCING . . . of the insulative GREEN resist.
IS IT BERING DEAD SHORTED ? . . . GOOD !
Then move on to my other differently marked Ground Plane's . . . all the way back to Ground Plane 1, origin.
On the way, also stop at top BLUE circle to confirm that it is that being that sense coils ground connection.
In the testing course, also stop at top left GREEN circle, to confirm that it is being that coils ground connection.
Next, move the OHMS meter probes to read the coils wire resistance between those GREEN and BLUE sensor coils.
M . . a . .a . .a . .a . .a . .a . .a . .n . .y turns of berry-berry fine wires-us-us-es . . . .are being used . . . . .Pass that ohms info back.
Now we have the large central "stick-kicker" impulse electromagnet connections, as being the RED and ORANGE circles.
Read that coils ohmmage and be expecting it as a quantum downward jump.. . . . . . . . . Pass that ohms info back.
Move OHMS testing down to the RED circle coil connection near the RED power wire and see if dead a short connection is present between RED power input wire and the RED circle L minus connection . . . . .expecting same.
Holding one OHMS connection on that L minus connection, take the other OHMS probe and PIERCE thru the green resist at my three RED ??? markings and confirm that specific GREEN ISLAND is connected to, and should be your +6 VDC supply to its other connections being made into it.
Remember that OHMMAGE reading, being previously found between RED and ORANGE circles, lets now test once again, put one of your OHMS meter probes at RED circle and the other probe moves down to Transistor Q1 Collector, to see if that same resistance value was now being read again. If not being the same reading . . . is it possibly reading an OPEN circuit ?.
Transistors Q1 and and Q2 pulse drive that L coil " stick driver" solenoid.
The overall soldering integrity on L+ coil ORANGE circle connection looks like SCHEISS.
Undoubtedly, a neophytes attempt at drip / drop / splattering on, of a soldering joint.
Adddditionally . . . . and thats being heavvvvy on the addddddd's . . . . as per the top R8 . . .I'm expecting to be a looooow ohmmage emitter resistor to ground. By virtue of using such a low 6VDC supply level.
Looks like it has the same sloppy solder install treatment and is being upside down, white side up, black, marked up side being downwards.

TESTING FROM MARKUPS . . . . .

Top left corner quadrant . . . . are found two diagonally oriented GREEN circles for making the connections into the units magnetic sensor coils.
Top left, I think will be the grounded terminal, and with the bottom right terminal being the induced signal out.

Central right on the board, will be the the other directions like sensor coil with my hesitant 50% degree of uncertainity, in its top BLUE circled connection being its grounded connection and its bottom right BLUE, being its signal output.

INCIDENTALS . . . .

Confirm all of my cathode / bar markings on the ends of all of those T4 surface mount power diodes . . . .( 1N4007 wannabes ). . . are now marked properly . . . . . .Hi Diddley Dee . . . . . . know what ? . . .diode Deee7 . . . . .I never did not see ?

No data sheet pin outs were found on the STAR marked GS8622 op amps, since no data sheet was ever found.

WORKAROUND . . .

Look at my PALE BLUE divisional line . . . . . expect there being one power connection, two inputs and one output on each half.
Pull out ye olde OHMMETER again and one lead goes to a Ground Plane connection and the other test lead probes all 8 I.C. pins for a direct connection. The now found pin is the power minus for the I.C.
Move one OHMMETER probe to RED L- coil connection and use other meter probe to find the pin that direct connects to it. That pin will be the I.C. power connection.
Now lets see if we get lucky, One OHMMETER probe goes to the SC1 GREEN coil connection and the other OHMS probe seeks all other 6 connections
( since the 2 powers connections are already found). I perceive,pins 1-4, due to their closest proximity to GREEN SC1 terminal .
With your success, we will then eventually know that I.C.'s . . . .heretofore unknown . . . two power connections and its one active input pin being used.
My forthcoming, powered up, test procedure will then let us then detect, which is being the I.C.'s amplified signal output pin.

CONFIRMATIONS . . . . .

Go back and reread to be sure ALL info requested is being passed forward after your testing and making reply in the forthcoming post from you.
In the interim, I am prepping a write up on that "bastard" PCB that is installed . . .series . . .inline with your battery . .6VDC supply . . .and this MAIN board that we are now evaluating.
ALSO . . . ALSO . . .ALSO . . . give the number / lettering of the 8 pin . . . U1 I.C. . . . . on this new board, just being mentioned.

FUTURE TESTING MATERIEL NEEDS . . . . .

A 1000 ohm resistor of a 100 . . . . . .or . . . CONSIDERABLY LESS ! . . . .wattage rating . . . . . ( jes' messin' wit cher' mind ! )


YOUR FINAL POST . . . .

You have the " Eiffel Tower " already built up, and in YOUR hands . . . . . why degrade to that posters pile of hot hog hocky and its technique . . . .
we just have to techno analyze yours and repair it.


73's de Edd . . . . .

Ambition . . . . . is a poor excuse for not having sense enough to be lazy.



.

 

[FrenchConnection67]

Thanks Edd for that comprehensive answer. We ve got definitely somwhere to start here. Sorry I didnt have time for it last night but will definitely test and feedback accordingly asap on here asap. Most probably this evening. Thanks again for your time. Much appreciated

 

[FrenchConnection67]

Hi Ed,

Please see below my findings:

Resistance between my two probes:0.08 Ω
L - to + : No connection
L - to ground: 0.08 Ω
L - to the red ???: 0.08 Ω
L+ to L+: 15Ω
L- to Q1 collector: 15.1Ω
D6: cathode RH pin
D2 : no connection to ground
D3: cathode LH pin
D4: cathode upper pin
D5: no connection to ground
D1: cathode RH pin
D9: no connection to ground
D8:no connection to ground
D10: no connection to ground

IC1:
Pin 4 (top right pin) to L-: 0.08Ω
Pin4 to SC1 sig: no connection
Pin4 to SC1 ground: no connection
IC2:
Pin4 to L-: 0.08Ω
Pin 4 to SC2 sig: no connection
Pin 4 to SC2 ground: no connection

U1 IC on small board:
SY3501D
2031A6
Y0T11D

 

[FrenchConnection67]

This the picture of the U1 IC as the reference was so small that I was not to sure between the Ds ans 0s

 

[bertus]

Hello,

The SY3501 seems to be some kind of battery charging controller.
This chinese site shows the connections;
https://max.book118.com/html/2018/1021/5324234313001322.shtm

Bertus

 

[FrenchConnection67]

Thanks for the info bertus. Yes, it must definitely be involved with the battery/power supply side of the circuit. This board is wired between the 4 AA 1.5Vdc batteries and the main logic board.

At the moment, the output measures between 5 and 6Vdc permanent. I know that the machine does not have any switch to turn it on or off. It turns on by swinging the stick,then the circuit starts the impulse and it goes into its perpetual cycle until we manually stop it and point the main stick downward for a few second. The syatem stops. I am wondering whether that black component on that power board is some sort of sensor which detects the magnet at the end of the stick and stops the supplys to the main control board.

 

[73's de Edd]

Sir FrenchConnection67 . . . . .

You say . . .
D2 : no connection to ground
But is my cathofde RH pin marking correct ?
and
D5: no connection to ground
Additionally, is my Cathode LH marking, being correct ?
D9: no connection to ground
Additionally, is my Cathode LH marking, being correct ?
D8: no connection to ground
Additionally, is my Cathode Bottom marking, being correct ?
D10: no connection to ground
Additionally, is my Cathode RH marking, being correct ?

S o o o o o . . .you, ALSO couldn't find that all too elusive Deeeeeee7 . . .could you ?

IC1:
Pin 4 (top right pin) to L-: 0.08Ω
Pin4 to SC1 sig: no connection
Pin4 to SC1 ground: no connection
IC2:
Pin4 to L-: 0.08Ω
Pin 4 to SC2 sig: no connection
Pin 4 to SC2 ground: no connection

That tells us that pin 4 of each IC is being that I.C.'s power ground connection.
And I also see that the incoming power RED wire connects to the L- solenoid connection and ALSO directly connected to the RED ??? foil island.

ADDITIONALLY . . .
You need to have gone ahead and placed one ohms lead on L- and used the other ohms lead to check pins 1-2-3-5-6-7 and 8 to confirm which is being .08 ohms and therefore the power supply pin for each I.C. .
( I'm Sort of expecting pin 8 ? )

Also I was expecting SC1 Gnd and SC2 Gnd terminals to be connected to one of the multiple Ground Plane options.
Re confirm that .
Then that leaves each of the SC1 and SC2 to go to an input pin of each I.C., and that looks like the those pin options would be pins 1-2 or 3.
Confirm . . . .

Your reading of 15 ohms for the solenoid coil to Q1 collector, confirms connectivity, however bad that solder joint now may look.

Now fill me in on those past requested facts.
The diodes data is just being informative . . . . . but we NEEDS . . . . I.C. power input pins and the sensor coils input pins.

The other intermediate circuit board. (Seen below)
Looks like the end jack might be an alternative power plug input jack for a plug in wall wart of ~ 5-9- VDC ?.
The basic SY3501 I.C.is a DC to DC upverter function that takes in the battery voltage and puts out +5-6VDC . . .or more ?. We will measure that later.
Then, as the battery input voltage declines, this unit maintains its constant supply voltage output to the main board, on up to the decline of voltage at the battery, down to ~ 3.5VDC
Then the pendulum will have gradually lost its capability to swing up . . .over . . . and past . . .top dead center position.

DC-DC UP-CONVERTER PCB . . . . .



~6V DC battery power comes in at the RED-BLACK left corners wire leads.
It then passes thru a 1.5 uh ringing inductor to pin 1of the SY3501.
Internally that is having a power FET and a shunting schottkey diode to ground.
The control electronics within the IC supplies driving pulses to the FETS gate at differently adjusted frequencies and pulse widths, in accordance to the power demands sensed. Even operating in burst mode for times of minimal power demands . . .its quite versatile .
As a pulse shorts FET D-S on the internal power FET the inductor builds up its magnetic field and at pulse end . Its magnet field collapses and induces a high back EMF voltage. That energy is harvested with the internal schottkey rectifier and gets its power stored up a reserve capacitor.
With that low value of pulse driven inductor this unit would typically be operating in the high 100's of kilohertz or low megahertz frequency.
Therefore instead of the common KLUGE E-cap, they are able to use a high density, layered monolithic ceramic block capacitor,mounted close in, but may additionally use a conventional E-cap further on down the supply line.
In this application, I don't see the utilization of the pin #5 and 6 LED's for activity and state of charge, as they surely want optimum life ( burst mode) if solely being battery powered, and expected to run 2 yrs + on batteries..

Your right sides RED and GREEN wires are the units power outputs to the main pendulum / stick driver board

OBSERVATION . . .
Bottom left corner . . . is being an all GREEN resist covered Ground Plane area . . . . . same is true for the bottom right corner Ground Pland
They connect with a rather narrow foil interconnect at very bottom center of the board.
Along comes a hole drilling / punch at YELLOW circle . . .probably, not even unused . . . with the bullet encircled holes being the PRINCIPALS.
That trace is now being borderline severed.
So they hand rework the board with the YELLOW marked in jumper wire . . . .as a precaution / insurance.

Thaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaasit . . . . .

Gimme your feedback data . . . . .

Final thought . . .
I am expecting the long pendulum / stick to be constructed with hollow alumininnyumyum tubing.
And is it being closed over on its end or hollow. ? ? ?
And in using your testing magnet for field sensing, is there being a magnet enclosed within that very end ? ? ? ?
BECAUSE . . . . In past times have made kiddos (me too ! . . .ME TOO ! ) a similar electromagnet with a central wooden dowel that extends upward and serves as a ring travel guide.
I put an aluminum can pop top tab on the electromagnet proper and upon 1 power pulsing of the electromagnet, it repels the tab as it guides up the dowel and pops off the ceiling 15+ feet up.

73's de Edd . . . . .


Did you ever hear this recent / millennium High School pep squads cheer ?

Barbecue !
Watermelon !
Cadillac car !
We’re not as dumb
As you think we is ! . . . . . . . . . (are)


.

 

[FrenchConnection67]

Hi Edd,

Thanks a lot for your time. Much appreciated. Just to let you know I am away on holiday for a week and will provide all the data on my return next weekend.

 

[FrenchConnection67]

Hi Ed,

I am finally back from holiday...but I am on calls 24/7 for the first week back hence why the delay! Anyway let's get back to the real interesting work below...

• Cathodes of the diodes:

D1 = RH pin
D2 = RH pin
D6 = RH pin
D4 = Bottom pin
D5 = LH pin
D9 = LH pin
D10 = RH pin

• Incoming red wire to L+ = 156KΩ
• ........to L- = 156KΩ
• .........to red foil island = 0.2Ω

• IC1 pins to L-:

Pin 1= 8.66KΩ
Pin 2= 8.66KΩ
3 = 9.22KΩ
4 = 0.2Ω
5 = 9.20KΩ
6= 9.19KΩ
7=9.36kΩ
8=7.95kΩ

• IC2 pins to L-

Pin1=8.12MΩ
2=no connection
3=97.7KΩ
4=1Ω
5=8.35kΩ
6=9.06kΩ
7=9.20kΩ
8=7.88kΩ

• SC1 GND to GP1=9.69kΩ
• SC2 GND to GP1=9.72kΩ

• SC1 GND TO IC1

Pin1=7.41MΩ
2=7.16MΩ
3=1.30MΩ
4=0.75MΩ
5=93.5kΩ
6=357Ω
7=1.23MΩ
8=0.646MΩ

• SC2 GND to IC2

Pin1=1.30MΩ
2=4.80kΩ
3=0.80MΩ
4=0.65MΩ
5=1.30MΩ
6=1.1MΩ
7=1.2MΩ
8=110KΩ

• L+ solder joint is bad but seems to make sounds connection when tested. I will redo the soldering tonight

Intermediate circuit power board

• The alternative connector jack is soldered in parallel to the batteries so the voltage accepted would be around 6Vdc.
• The voltage output from the batteries is 6.30Vdc
• The voltage output of the intermediate power circuit board is 5.26Vdc
• The long pendulum is a hollow aluminium tube as you expected and on its end, a magnet has been inserted and glue in place. The magnet cannot be seen due to the end of the tube being closed off composite adhesive.

Let us know what are your findings from those data. Looking forward to the next steps

 

[FrenchConnection67]

Sir FrenchConnection67 . . . . .

You say . . .
D2 : no connection to ground
But is my cathofde RH pin marking correct ?
and
D5: no connection to ground
Additionally, is my Cathode LH marking, being correct ?
D9: no connection to ground
Additionally, is my Cathode LH marking, being correct ?
D8: no connection to ground
Additionally, is my Cathode Bottom marking, being correct ?
D10: no connection to ground
Additionally, is my Cathode RH marking, being correct ?

S o o o o o . . .you, ALSO couldn't find that all too elusive Deeeeeee7 . . .could you ?

IC1:
Pin 4 (top right pin) to L-: 0.08Ω
Pin4 to SC1 sig: no connection
Pin4 to SC1 ground: no connection
IC2:
Pin4 to L-: 0.08Ω
Pin 4 to SC2 sig: no connection
Pin 4 to SC2 ground: no connection

That tells us that pin 4 of each IC is being that I.C.'s power ground connection.
And I also see that the incoming power RED wire connects to the L- solenoid connection and ALSO directly connected to the RED ??? foil island.

ADDITIONALLY . . .
You need to have gone ahead and placed one ohms lead on L- and used the other ohms lead to check pins 1-2-3-5-6-7 and 8 to confirm which is being .08 ohms and therefore the power supply pin for each I.C. .
( I'm Sort of expecting pin 8 ? )

Also I was expecting SC1 Gnd and SC2 Gnd terminals to be connected to one of the multiple Ground Plane options.
Re confirm that .
Then that leaves each of the SC1 and SC2 to go to an input pin of each I.C., and that looks like the those pin options would be pins 1-2 or 3.
Confirm . . . .

Your reading of 15 ohms for the solenoid coil to Q1 collector, confirms connectivity, however bad that solder joint now may look.

Now fill me in on those past requested facts.
The diodes data is just being informative . . . . . but we NEEDS . . . . I.C. power input pins and the sensor coils input pins.

The other intermediate circuit board. (Seen below)
Looks like the end jack might be an alternative power plug input jack for a plug in wall wart of ~ 5-9- VDC ?.
The basic SY3501 I.C.is a DC to DC upverter function that takes in the battery voltage and puts out +5-6VDC . . .or more ?. We will measure that later.
Then, as the battery input voltage declines, this unit maintains its constant supply voltage output to the main board, on up to the decline of voltage at the battery, down to ~ 3.5VDC
Then the pendulum will have gradually lost its capability to swing up . . .over . . . and past . . .top dead center position.

DC-DC UP-CONVERTER PCB . . . . .

View attachment 55274

~6V DC battery power comes in at the RED-BLACK left corners wire leads.
It then passes thru a 1.5 uh ringing inductor to pin 1of the SY3501.
Internally that is having a power FET and a shunting schottkey diode to ground.
The control electronics within the IC supplies driving pulses to the FETS gate at differently adjusted frequencies and pulse widths, in accordance to the power demands sensed. Even operating in burst mode for times of minimal power demands . . .its quite versatile .
As a pulse shorts FET D-S on the internal power FET the inductor builds up its magnetic field and at pulse end . Its magnet field collapses and induces a high back EMF voltage. That energy is harvested with the internal schottkey rectifier and gets its power stored up a reserve capacitor.
With that low value of pulse driven inductor this unit would typically be operating in the high 100's of kilohertz or low megahertz frequency.
Therefore instead of the common KLUGE E-cap, they are able to use a high density, layered monolithic ceramic block capacitor,mounted close in, but may additionally use a conventional E-cap further on down the supply line.
In this application, I don't see the utilization of the pin #5 and 6 LED's for activity and state of charge, as they surely want optimum life ( burst mode) if solely being battery powered, and expected to run 2 yrs + on batteries..

Your right sides RED and GREEN wires are the units power outputs to the main pendulum / stick driver board

OBSERVATION . . .
Bottom left corner . . . is being an all GREEN resist covered Ground Plane area . . . . . same is true for the bottom right corner Ground Pland
They connect with a rather narrow foil interconnect at very bottom center of the board.
Along comes a hole drilling / punch at YELLOW circle . . .probably, not even unused . . . with the bullet encircled holes being the PRINCIPALS.
That trace is now being borderline severed.
So they hand rework the board with the YELLOW marked in jumper wire . . . .as a precaution / insurance.

Thaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaasit . . . . .

Gimme your feedback data . . . . .

Final thought . . .
I am expecting the long pendulum / stick to be constructed with hollow alumininnyumyum tubing.
And is it being closed over on its end or hollow. ? ? ?
And in using your testing magnet for field sensing, is there being a magnet enclosed within that very end ? ? ? ?
BECAUSE . . . . In past times have made kiddos (me too ! . . .ME TOO ! ) a similar electromagnet with a central wooden dowel that extends upward and serves as a ring travel guide.
I put an aluminum can pop top tab on the electromagnet proper and upon 1 power pulsing of the electromagnet, it repels the tab as it guides up the dowel and pops off the ceiling 15+ feet up.

73's de Edd . . . . .


Did you ever hear this recent / millennium High School pep squads cheer ?

Barbecue !
Watermelon !
Cadillac car !
We’re not as dumb
As you think we is ! . . . . . . . . . (are)


.

Hi Ed,

I am finally back from holiday...but I am on calls 24/7 for the first week back hence why the delay! Anyway let's get back to the real interesting work below...

• Cathodes of the diodes:

D1 = RH pin
D2 = RH pin
D6 = RH pin
D4 = Bottom pin
D5 = LH pin
D9 = LH pin
D10 = RH pin

• Incoming red wire to L+ = 156KΩ
• ........to L- = 156KΩ
• .........to red foil island = 0.2Ω

• IC1 pins to L-:

Pin 1= 8.66KΩ
Pin 2= 8.66KΩ
3 = 9.22KΩ
4 = 0.2Ω
5 = 9.20KΩ
6= 9.19KΩ
7=9.36kΩ
8=7.95kΩ

• IC2 pins to L-

Pin1=8.12MΩ
2=no connection
3=97.7KΩ
4=1Ω
5=8.35kΩ
6=9.06kΩ
7=9.20kΩ
8=7.88kΩ

• SC1 GND to GP1=9.69kΩ
• SC2 GND to GP1=9.72kΩ

• SC1 GND TO IC1

Pin1=7.41MΩ
2=7.16MΩ
3=1.30MΩ
4=0.75MΩ
5=93.5kΩ
6=357Ω
7=1.23MΩ
8=0.646MΩ

• SC2 GND to IC2

Pin1=1.30MΩ
2=4.80kΩ
3=0.80MΩ
4=0.65MΩ
5=1.30MΩ
6=1.1MΩ
7=1.2MΩ
8=110KΩ

• L+ solder joint is bad but seems to make sounds connection when tested. I will redo the soldering tonight

Intermediate circuit power board

• The alternative connector jack is soldered in parallel to the batteries so the voltage accepted would be around 6Vdc.
• The voltage output from the batteries is 6.30Vdc
• The voltage output of the intermediate power circuit board is 5.26Vdc
• The long pendulum is a hollow aluminium tube as you expected and on its end, a magnet has been inserted and glue in place. The magnet cannot be seen due to the end of the tube being closed off composite adhesive.

Let us know what are your findings from those data. Looking forward to the next steps