Sir coastman49 . . . .
GOOD SHOW ! . . . . .Lo o o o o o o king Go o o o o o o o d
. . . . . . now, with maybe no expense of the purchase of another FWB
Comparing the schematic snippet to the internal FWB
component equivalency, we can see that you tested internal diodes "B" and "D" and found no back resistance / leakage.
And then found that both of those diodes had good forward conducting junctions of 535 and 531 millivolts. Then, finally, the 2 in series diode
junctions having a reading of 997 millivolts .
(The last variance in readings . . . if you were expecting the added diode voltages . . . was because the measurement parameters shifted in the meter supplied current and voltages due to the measurement of a single diode junction versus
a series pair of diode junctions . )
Now do a complete test of ALL
of the rest of the units diodes, by placing a meter probe on #1 and go thru that same sequence of tests, in that way, you are then getting "A" and "C" sections readings.
And finally, do a test from 2-3 and then do it with a probe polarity swap.
That last test is where you will find the advantage of having a pulled FW block . . . . if being in circuit . . .that is where you would be getting a low reading due to the BLUE RECTANGLES
power transformer winding shunting those terminals. (Post 30's full schema referencing )
If all is well, guess that its time to do a fresh solder tinning of the block and then reinstall with new solder , leaving a magnificent workmanship, work of electronic craftsmanship art after a bristle brush + solvent cleaning of the joints and a final solvent + Q-tip polishing of the joints + dry Q-tip polishing . ( Now, looks like they are being chrome plated . . . don't they ? )
Then I would move on to the C1202 Negative supply filter E-capacitor and pull it . Then pull its companion C1201 and install it in place of the pulled unit.
Then go thru a test lamp installed power up and I think that you will then have a working MINUS 39'ish power supply voltage . . . . . as you formerly had with the former PLUS 39'ish volt supply.
( Now disconnected to make this test )
PULLING those brutes . . .
Position the chassis so that gravity will assist you, in having the caps solder joints, being face up and topside.
Then . . . 1 of two options . . .
Add solder to the two terminals to make heat retaining BLOBS then get one blob into a liquid solder state and then move to the other to heat it to the same liquid state .
E..v..e..n..t..u..a..l..l..y the heat will be retained enough by the appropriately timed swaps, such that both blobs, now being in a liquid state will then permit you to pull y the cap downwards and free from the board.
Then, option 2 . . . .
Usually, being because your soldering Iron didn't have enough THERMAL HEAT OOOMPH . . . .
You heat one solder joint , while pulling the extweme***** end
of the capacitor case toward the unheated joint.
At one point in the liquification of that heated joint, your tilting effort should let you feel some very slight freeing movement of that heated terminal.
Freeze further movement
at that instant and remove the soldering irons heat until the joint has solidified
in that new slightly lower position.
Move soldering iron heat to the other terminal and use the same procedure to get its contribution of a micro movement
After an appropriate number of heat transitions plus terminal movements you should have a final freed terminal.
. . .no circuit board / nor / foil damage.
***** A typo of mine at 100 + wpm speed . . . . . but it looked so . . . . .tongue tied . . . . .Elmer Fudd 'ish . . . .that I just had to leave it !
Waiting for MINUS 39'ish volts . . . . .
Thaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaasit . . .
73's de Edd . . . . .
I went to a massage parlor . . . . . . . but then found out that it was self-service.