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Radio controlled voice and fan control for Star Wars Clone Trooper

NikToo

Mar 16, 2012
4
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Mar 16, 2012
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Hello everyone. I'm new here, joined because I'm having a bit of a conundrum which is causing me many sleepless nights at the moment. It's something that could potentially work quite well.

Basically, I'm doing a full-size Star Wars Episode 2: Attack of the Clones (to give it its full name) Clone Trooper helmet for possibly use with the 501st Legion. A lot of people have various rather expensive voice control and amplifier systems but I want something that is small enough to be self-contained in the helmet and be able to control it via radio link from the compad on the arm of the Clone armor.

I've put a basic diagram as an attachment, hope it makes some sense... I've put a 9V battery as the power source because that seems to be enough for most voice amps, but feel free to tell me if the whole thing is unfeasible unless I have a car battery strapped on my back. Attached to the battery is a small fan, a small display with three red LEDs, a voice amp, passive microphone and speaker. The speaker is a 45mm Mylar superthin speaker (http://www.maplin.co.uk/super-thin-mylar-speakers-32371?criteria=mylar&doy=14m12) which should be enough. I then want to be able to switch everything on and off using a radio remote.

Now, here comes the tricky bit: I have no clue how to do this... I was thinking of using one of these: http://www.goodluckbuy.com/6ch-on-off-wall-light-lamp-wireless-rf-radio-remote-control-315mhz.html as the control panel underneath the compad. That would then control one of these: http://www.goodluckbuy.com/rf-wireless-ask-super-regeneration-receiver-module-lxd-9-2pcs.html sitting in the helmet and receiving the signal. That would then control the various parts by switching them on and off using the remote.

Would this sort of amp work: http://www.velleman.eu/products/view/?id=352708, and using this sort of headset: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/270607976429 ?

I don't quite understand how to run a 5V receiver off a 9V battery though, and power everything else as well.

So, is this something which can be done? I can do basic soldering and I have some grasp of what various electronic bits do. Not so good on volts, amps and watts maybe. I need to find the various parts for one thing, and it needs to work ideally off the one battery, but realize the receiver might need its own 4.5V battery. Any help would be much appreciated.
 

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(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
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Jan 21, 2010
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So what is it supposed to do?
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
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So what's it supposed to do?

Who's voice? The person inside the helmet, or someone else? What sort of volume is required? Louder than a person speaking? Much louder than a person speaking?

And what are the LED and Fan doing? Is the LED providing light, or is it just an indicator? Does the fan just sit there and spin, or is it ventilating the helmet?

Is the arm thing the controller? Does it have a radio link to the helmet? Or is the radio link to somewhere else? What exactly does it control?

If not answered above, what is the radio link for?

How far is the radio link supposed to be? Do you want to control multiple helmets? If so, are they all supposed to do the same thing, or is each one independent?

Are you talking about a small type 216 9 volt battery? Presumably you will need at least 2, one for the transmitter and one for the receiver. What sort of life do you need them to have?
 

NikToo

Mar 16, 2012
4
Joined
Mar 16, 2012
Messages
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It's for the person wearing the helmet, amplifying the voice slightly louder. Doesn't the volume depend on the wattage of the speaker?

The LED light is for a light at the rear of the helmet. Thought this sort of thing might work, but I need to check the measurement: http://uk.farnell.com/opto-images/ba0320hr3a/led-array-red/dp/1208839.

The fan is for ventilation. Problem with the fan is that it's usually quite loud, hence why I want to be able to switch it off.

The radio link is on the arm, yes. It's to switch each unit on and off (speaker/mic, fan, LED). The receiver is to sit inside the helmet as well, so only about an arm's length away, literally.

The transmitter has its own battery, ideally I'd like to run everything in the helmet off the same 9V battery, but could do one 9V for the amplifier and a 9V or 4.5V for the fan and LEDs. Life would be sort of 5-6 hours (one good reason for being able to switch things off and save battery power).

Hope that clarifies it.

Thanks,
Nik
 

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
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Jan 21, 2010
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OK, that's better :)

If you could dispense with the requirement to have a radio link you would simplify things greatly. Running cables inside clothing is generally pretty easy.

If you can't then the radio link is going to be 90% of the work.

The loudness of he sound depends largely on the power output of your amplifier and the efficiency of the speaker.

However you're going to get impressive feedback unless you can ensure the output of your speaker doesn't get acoustically coupled to the mic.

I'd suggest that you use an LM380 with a suitable preamp for whatever microphone you choose.

Remotely controlling the volume is a reasonably complex thing to do. One option is to run the audio along long leads to a remote volume control, but you've got to be careful of picking up hum. You need to use shielded cable.

Another option for the volume control is to use one of the chips that have a potentiometer on a chip. these may require a microcontroller to provide the appropriate signals and would perhaps be a viable option if you're going down the track of wirelessly controlling it.

a fan could presumably be mounted in the top of the helmet and ventilate the helmet by assisting the normal convective flow, i.e. drawing air out of the top of the helmet.

The key to low noise is to have the largest fan you can fit, spinning as slowly as you can. If you have some "push to talk" functionality, you can use this to remove power from the fan while you're talking. This is likely to reduce the noise greatly.

The power requirements are likely to exceed that of a small 9V battery (at least for any significant duration). I'd go for something like 8 or 10 AA cells (you may be able to hide them in the helmet or in some other part of the costume.) or perhaps three 16550 size Lithium batteries.
 

NikToo

Mar 16, 2012
4
Joined
Mar 16, 2012
Messages
4
Thanks Steve.

Yes, using wires instead of radio would make everything very easy... Or at least somewhat easier, considering my level of knowledge. The idea is to have a self-contained unit though, not for any other reason than just because it would be neat.

The speaker will be housed in a plastic cup with probably foam behind it to avoid any feedback. Apparently this is a tried and tested speaker so don't think it'll be an issue. The volume can stay on the amp board, as I quite like the size and look of the LM380 you suggested there, all I need is the on/off.

I did consider putting the fan at the top, it would be the most logical place. Unfortunately the LEDs block any top ventilation though so it usually either sits in front of the face, blowing across the visor, or I thought it might go in the rear as there's a grille like thing which might be used for venting. Size is an issue, so rather than a nice big, quiet 120mm Nexus fan it will probably have to be a small 25-35 mm fan.

Would having two 9V batteries be better? One for the amp/microphone, and one for the fan/LEDs, with a 4.5V for the reciver? That way there could be a battery in each "ear" and one at the rear. Just that 8-10 AA batteries would probably be heavier and bulkier.
 
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