rear window defogger replacement switch melts plastic covers

[[email protected]]

Hi, the rear window defogger switch of my car is defective. The parts
office asks for $45 for a new part, and I cannot find any other office
in my country. Therefore I decided to use a common switch. To this
end, I had to find which 2 connectors to connect, because the original
switch was connected to 4. I disasembled the original switch and I
noticed that it looked like a common on-off switch connecting just 2
of the connectors. I came to the conclusion that the other 2 where not
used. Maybe they where there for a different version of the switch?
Because the connectors where hidden in a plastic enclosure, I extended
them using one 5 inch cable for each. Then I connected a usual on-off
switch (13Ampere, 240 Volt) to these extensions. Now when the switch
is on for about 1-2 minutes, the defogger works, but the plastic
enclosure melts because a lot of heat is eminated from the original
connectors and from their extensions. I do not think the resistance of
the extension cables is high because they are thick copper wires I
took out of a laundry machine computer! Any one knows what am I doing
wrong? Any suggestion how to make the switch work?

 

[Paul Landregan]

Hi, the rear window defogger switch of my car is defective. The parts
office asks for $45 for a new part, and I cannot find any other office
in my country. Therefore I decided to use a common switch. To this
end, I had to find which 2 connectors to connect, because the original
switch was connected to 4. I disasembled the original switch and I
noticed that it looked like a common on-off switch connecting just 2
of the connectors. I came to the conclusion that the other 2 where not
used. Maybe they where there for a different version of the switch?
Because the connectors where hidden in a plastic enclosure, I extended
them using one 5 inch cable for each. Then I connected a usual on-off
switch (13Ampere, 240 Volt) to these extensions. Now when the switch
is on for about 1-2 minutes, the defogger works, but the plastic
enclosure melts because a lot of heat is eminated from the original
connectors and from their extensions. I do not think the resistance of
the extension cables is high because they are thick copper wires I
took out of a laundry machine computer! Any one knows what am I doing
wrong? Any suggestion how to make the switch work?

Current on my Demister(Defogger) is 28A. 13A is waaaayyyy to low, hence its
getting hot, as the contact resistance is too high.

 

[Neil Nelson]

Current on my Demister(Defogger) is 28A. 13A is waaaayyyy to low, hence its
getting hot, as the contact resistance is too high.

Not to mention that his 13 amp, 240 volt rating is for an AC
circuit which makes it good for about 2 amps DC.

 

[sofie]

interuser:
In the long run..... save money and time... and install the proper and safe
exact factory replacement part..... not to mention that your experimenting
with improper parts could easily cause personal injury, fires, etc.
Be very certain to get all the wires back on the correct terminals of the
new "exact" replacement switch.

 

[Michael]

[email protected] ([email protected]) wrote in

Hi, the rear window defogger switch of my car is defective. The parts
office asks for $45 for a new part, and I cannot find any other office
in my country. Therefore I decided to use a common switch. To this
end, I had to find which 2 connectors to connect, because the original
switch was connected to 4. I disasembled the original switch and I
noticed that it looked like a common on-off switch connecting just 2
of the connectors. I came to the conclusion that the other 2 where not
used. Maybe they where there for a different version of the switch?
Because the connectors where hidden in a plastic enclosure, I extended
them using one 5 inch cable for each. Then I connected a usual on-off
switch (13Ampere, 240 Volt) to these extensions. Now when the switch
is on for about 1-2 minutes, the defogger works, but the plastic
enclosure melts because a lot of heat is eminated from the original
connectors and from their extensions. I do not think the resistance of
the extension cables is high because they are thick copper wires I
took out of a laundry machine computer! Any one knows what am I doing
wrong? Any suggestion how to make the switch work?

Whenever I have to replace anything on any of my cars - I visit the local
junk yards. I have yet to buy any new parts. For something like that they'd
probably ask for like $5. And then you wouldn't have to worry about
anything catching fire

Michael

 

[Harry Conover]

[email protected] ([email protected]) wrote in



Whenever I have to replace anything on any of my cars - I visit the local
junk yards. I have yet to buy any new parts. For something like that they'd
probably ask for like $5. And then you wouldn't have to worry about
anything catching fire

Michael

Amen to that, but junkyard today prefer to be called "Used Parts Dealers"!

Harry C.

 

[Ralph Wade Phillips]

Howdy!

Amen to that, but junkyard today prefer to be called "Used Parts Dealers"!

"Automotive Parts Recycling Facility"

Yes, actually, there IS a wrecking yard / junk yard / used part
dealer in my town that goes by that name ...

My nephew (who owns an auto salvage yard - still ANOTHER phrase for
the same thing!) says that's because he specializes in Lexus, Acura,
Cadillac, BMW, etc ...

RwP

 

[sdlomi]

Howdy!

Dealers"!

"Automotive Parts Recycling Facility"

Yes, actually, there IS a wrecking yard / junk yard / used part
dealer in my town that goes by that name ...

My nephew (who owns an auto salvage yard - still ANOTHER phrase for
the same thing!) says that's because he specializes in Lexus, Acura,
Cadillac, BMW, etc ...

RwP

Ever noticed that some parts, like hood hinges for instance, are
nearly always cheaper, brand new, than at a salvage yard? So much labor
removing, I am sure.
BTW:When I was a kid, I junked a 48 Chevy (that I bought for $65
with a 52 engine) when I sold the engine to a beach-goer whose engine locked
up near our country store. Kept a notebook and recorded each $1 items I
sold, 50cents, $15, etc. In about 1.5 years I had sold something like $250
of stuff, including the eng. Man, what a business to be in! Or should I
say PROFESSION? sdlomi

 

[James Sweet]

Ever noticed that some parts, like hood hinges for instance, are
nearly always cheaper, brand new, than at a salvage yard? So much labor
removing, I am sure.
BTW:When I was a kid, I junked a 48 Chevy (that I bought for $65
with a 52 engine) when I sold the engine to a beach-goer whose engine locked
up near our country store. Kept a notebook and recorded each $1 items I
sold, 50cents, $15, etc. In about 1.5 years I had sold something like $250
of stuff, including the eng. Man, what a business to be in! Or should I
say PROFESSION? sdlomi

Depends on the yard really, I only go to the U-pull ones, locally good
engines are $140, trannies are $55, hood hinges are something like $10,
granted the newest cars they have are '90 or so.

 

[sdlomi]

Depends on the yard really, I only go to the U-pull ones, locally good
engines are $140, trannies are $55, hood hinges are something like $10,
granted the newest cars they have are '90 or so.

Sounds as if you find those "oldies but goodies" yards. When I had
time, I could browse for hours, finding things that suggested projects just
by catching my attention. I'd probably still enjoy plundering thru
them--good days I prolly will never again enjoy. Lucky you!!! Envious of
your find and ability to utilize, sdlomi. Happy New Year!