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reliable motorcycle rectifier circuit

pharaon

Oct 28, 2014
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my motorcycle rectifier circuit got fallen and extract more than 14.5 DCV when i accelerate like 15,16,17,18,19,20 DCV which cause the motorcycle battery to dry

so i would like to make external circuit to maintain such increasing DC voltage into steady 14.5 DCV
anyone can help me with diagram?
 

Alec_t

Jul 7, 2015
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Can you post a schematic for the bike's electrical ystem?
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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Sir Pharaon . . . . .

That should be taken care of by your 2nd item over from your battery . . . . the voltage regulator.
Plus it seems like you must puttting in a L o o o o o o o ong commute time . . . in daylight hours . . .with the cycle.
Then parking it with the battery exposed continually to direct sunlight + heat. In order to boil off your electrolyte.
How about monitoring the battery voltage and revvvving up in neutral to see what variance there is being in output voltage at the battery, then try it with full headlight loading.
If out of reason . . . . . . say, well over 15 V or so.
Personally, then, I would add on a home made shunt regulator using an adjustment pot, a zener diode and a heat sunk power transistor to bleed down the voltage after reaching a certain desired charging voltage level.

Pick one out and let us examine and critique it . . . .





73's de Edd . . . . .

Don’t use “beef stew” as your a computer password . . . . 'cause it’s just not stroganoff.


.
 
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Alec_t

Jul 7, 2015
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I'm surprised the bike's lights haven't failed. Is the regulator repairable? Or can you buy another regulator, possibly a used one?
 

pharaon

Oct 28, 2014
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Personally, then, I would add on a home made shunt regulator using an adjustment pot, a zener diode and a heat sunk power transistor to bleed down the voltage after reaching a certain desired charging voltage level.
sir 73's de Edd thank you for replying
yes i'd like to make shunt regulator, although you asked me to choose one and i'm not familiar which one could be more reliable than the others.
what about this one
choice 1

choice 2

kindly if there's better one than what i chose, tell me about it
 

Bluejets

Oct 5, 2014
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yes i'd like to make shunt regulator,
From the circuit supplied, it may be more involved than first appears.
Advice would be, (if you put a value on the bike lamps and the battery itself, or the cost of inconvienience when it goes down for good with more damage than now) replace with a new or s/h tested regulator.
It is quite obvious you know nothing about it and it will trip you up eventually.
 

73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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Sir Pharaon . . . . .

I see that STAR is a newer manufactured Indian unit and NOT one of the STAR series of older Yamahaulers
It is looking akin to the Italianos early days Vespa scooters in styling . . . .with what looks like a VERY-VERY large comfortable seat!
Fortunate, that you are actually having an excess of generated power, instead of borderline or too low of generated voltage output !
PLUS I can see this incrementally faulting only at higher speeds, or additionally if you are not having, power consuming lights on.
If you find that the voltage is appreciably coming closer to normal with lights on you might consider using them in daylight driving, much the same as some cars do as an additional " I SEE YOU " safety factor.
Consulting your wiring diagram . . . . . repeated at bottom page

HOW YOUR MAGNETO/GENERATOR WORKS . . . . .

Find the single BLACK wire entry and we will work clockwise from it. That is system ground and shares a
commonality with 3 tandem windings and 1 single winding plus the units cast housing. Also, there is a 1697270838969.png
wire going housing to housing . . . . . . being common to ground.
You can then see the top 2 tandem winding set being in series and going to the left to exit as the BLUE wire and the source of power to the units voltage regulator which routes outputted power to the right via the ORANGE wire going to your battery.
Go back to the MAGNETO/GENERATOR where the next tandem winding set, viewing clockwise, has one connection to the casting which would also be effectively connected to central ground wire . Its other connection exits as the RED wire which is providing power for your Capacitor Discharge Ignition module to run from.
The last coil is being a single trigger coil that will be outputting a voltage burst that is positionally related to your motors crankshaft position.

Here is a rundown of the last tandem coil set to RED wire output and the positionally critical single trigger coil and its input into the CDI unit.

You will initially be creating Magneto/Generator spinning magnets rotary action on initial starter motor action operation from the storage battery. Then there is operational power coming down the RED wire to the Capacitor Discharge Ignition module, it is then using a built in DC converter to create an ~ 300 VDC voltage to charge a 1 ufd or so value of Poly/mylar film storage cap that . . . . at precise timings . . . .discharges into your High Tension Coil up at the top via the BLUE wire running up to it. The High Tension Coils secondary then connects to the sparkling plug.
The critical timing is relevant to crankshaft positioning to the instant of the output pulse from that single winding which travels down the GREEN wire to the Capacitor Discharge Ignition module and an internal Silicon Controlled Rectifier which then dumps that 300 VDC level of charged voltage, into the primary of the High Tension Coil.
The motor cranks, runs and rotates to repeat the process until shutdown.
Simultaneously the 2 series tandem windings are providing generated power to the voltage regulator module, which ascertains the degree of power transferal to the storage battery.
That is where you seem to have a bit excess at times and conditions.

1697270123723.png


The use of an additional shunt regulator would detect the rise in battery charge level above the norm and gently dissipate any overvoltage .
I would go for the 1st circuit and experiment with a 1K pot inserted so that you can set exactly what voltage threshold that you want any over voltage bleed off to occur.
At the Zener bottom lead /1k res / 4.7k res junction,they are to be disconnected and pot center rotor terminal goes to the now floating zener lead, one pot end terminal goes to the free 1k res and the pots other end terminal goes to the free 1k res. Then you set the pot to mid position and monitor voltage on higher revved up motor speed with lights off and trim in voltage to as high as you would ever want it to be. Then turn on lights and re check. A low threshold of 13.7VDC or upper of 14.2 would be benchmark levels to experiment with on your type of battery.
Considering that the lights will principally be using the stabilized, state of charge battery.



REPEAT of YOUR ALREADY HOSTED WIRING DIAGRAM . . . . . . . . . . . for quicker viewing access

1697269780184.png


Thaaaaaaaaassssit.


73's de Edd . . . . . .

I wasn't originally going to get a brain transplant . . . . . but then, I changed my mind !


.
 
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Alec_t

Jul 7, 2015
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I don't see how the single-transistor regulator shown in post #8 could be used here. All windings in the magneto have one end grounded, which prevents full-wave rectification with a bridge rectifier.
 
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73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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That was just the full schema being posted at the schematics origin site . . . . none of the FWB's left circuitry will be used, possibly excepting a proper rated fuse.
He would only want to be using the disconnected wiring starting from the far right bridge diodes common cathodes and the bridges far left common anodes. With those 2 wires connecting into the Pos and Neg charging power busses.
 

pharaon

Oct 28, 2014
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REPEAT of YOUR ALREADY HOSTED WIRING DIAGRAM . . . . . . . . . . . for quicker viewing access
sir 73's de Edd thank you for replying
sorry for any conflict but i attached my right wiring diagram
it took me while to find it online
i wonder if it will make any difference to your previous reply to my inquiry
 

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73's de Edd

Aug 21, 2015
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Looks like relevant circuitry is being the same. Its install would be having one lead to ground and the other wire to the ORANGE wire going from voltage regulator to fuse to battery, with you connecting in closest to fuse.
Since I have them, I would be using a metal cased 2N3055 mounted onto a properly sizeable heat sink.
You may want to initially guesstimate on heat sink mass and then feel its temp after a lengthy drive / commute to then see if any heat build up is excessive.
 

pharaon

Oct 28, 2014
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and pot center rotor terminal goes to the now floating zener lead, one pot end terminal goes to the free 1k res and the pots other end terminal goes to the free 1k res. Then you set the pot to mid position
sir 73's de Edd thank you for replying
i don't get exactly what you refer to with pod
and what is pot center rotor terminal
kindly explain further since i'm not familiar with the expression
 
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