# remote control *3 WAY* switch

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#### Dan Durachko

Jan 1, 1970
0
Sears/Craftsman used to market a 3 way switch for controlling a 120VAC load
that was triggered by a garage door opener. Mine failed and attempts to
debug/repair it have been less than fruitful. It appears as though there
are multiple problems with the original unit. I used it to control a 500W
spotlight for my driveway/parking area. I cannot seem to locate anything on
the market today other than a plug-in, 1 way switch that operates from a
common garage door opener signal. I miss the convenience and would like to
make one on my own. Basically, the Sears unit utilized a couple of
internally triggered triacs switched by a 4013 and an Rx module to change
the state of the flip-flop. Other ancillary items on the board merely
stepped down the mains voltage to power the Rx module and logic and there
are also a half dozen or so small transistors and an inductive coil that my
lack of knowledge prevents me from understanding. Question: Any web
reference(s) out there that would get me started designing and assembling
such a device and perhaps take me right through to completion? I'm sure
thousands of people out there could draw just what I need on a napkin in
less than a minute. TIA.

S

#### Sylvan Butler

Jan 1, 1970
0
Sears/Craftsman used to market a 3 way switch for controlling a 120VAC load
that was triggered by a garage door opener. Mine failed and attempts to ...
common garage door opener signal. I miss the convenience and would like to
make one on my own. Basically, the Sears unit utilized a couple of

I'd just use x10 switches. At list prices, $20 for a 3-way master switch and one companion (aka slave) switch. Or if you want the "decorator" style, about$30. Special offers can considerably reduce
those prices. To interface to the garage door, you can either hook into
the GDO light socket as if it were a slave switch, or modify any of
various X10 controllers using your choice of connection to the GDO, or
use a "powerflash" module (\$20) which accepts either a contact closure
or low-voltage to trigger.

Notes: Your 500w load is at the max rating for the cheapest x10
x10.com, but for less annoying marketing, a wider variety of switches,
and a nice switch comparison table, see http://www.smarthome.com .

Oh, and currently my garage lighting has two 100w bulbs in ceiling boxes
which are turned on by either the GDO or by a motion detector. I have
several fluorescents controlled by wall switches if I don't want to
chance the motion detector and/or GDO timeout or need more light. This
means instead of depending on one little bulb on the front of the GDO, I
get more light, better bulb life even using normal (not ruggedized)
bulbs, and have multiple bulbs (so one burning out doesn't leave me in
the dark). Works great. X10 would have been overkill (but I do use
X10 in many places).

sdb

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#### Dan Durachko

Jan 1, 1970
0
Thanks for the tip. I never *really* looked into X10 but your post spurred
me to look into it. I'll likely just go this route.

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