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Repair to Control Board PCB of Whirlpool Oven

bijanelectric

Feb 4, 2021
32
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Feb 4, 2021
Messages
32
Since I could not get any further help in this forum I posted my inquiry in another forum and got some help there.
I plan to proceed with this repair as follows:
Replace C29 with a 100nF capacitor and the following arrangement on the board please see the picture below:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rawZObjUHn5G0N9kYmwuZh74IBhJnbcn/view?usp=sharing

I plan to made the following repair to the component side of the board as show in picture below (please note that the yellow indicates the reverse side of the board and red the component side):

https://drive.google.com/file/d/14H9IUYuVfTSsuLkNSSRaZmcEY9W4JkpG/view?usp=sharing

D39A pad does not look well either so I plan to solder it to both its pad and D33K.

I measured the value of the diodes and capacitors that were removed from the board and they are as follows:

D69 measures forward 0.500 and infinite reverse

D33 measures forward 0.520 and infinite reverse

D39 measures forward 0.509 and infinite reverse

D34 measures forward 0.508 and infinite reverse

D40 measures forward 0.482 and infinite reverse

Are any of these diode values out of line? I plan to reuse them so please let me know if they should not be reused and the reason. Thanks.

C34 rated 100μF measures 17 μF plan to replace with a 1800μF I have

D50 rated 100μF measures 54 nF plan to replace with a 1800μF I have

Both removed capacitors C34 and C50 seems to no longer hold their rated correct value, they also measure the same no matter how the meter lead are connected. I measured the new 1800μF capacitor that I have and the meter shows the correct rated value of the new capacitor and only if the leads of the meter are correctly attached to the capacitor. So the meter I am using is good and C34 and C50 are bad. Was this a contributing factor to the burned out? Was this caused by the burnt out? Are these capacitors the main cause of the intermittent operation of the oven?

I also measured the big C11 capacitor next to the rectifier section of the board. I did not remove C11 and measured it on the board. C11 is rated at 1000µF and measures 881 µF so pretty close. I know capacitors are not suppose to be measured on the board but I think this measurement is showing the true value of this capacitor even with the capacitor still attached to pcb.
 

bijanelectric

Feb 4, 2021
32
Joined
Feb 4, 2021
Messages
32
The oven's pcb was repaired as per instructions I received in the other forum. Here is the picture of the repaired board:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1V1570T-zprgK-ieuhLNtL33IHp1Ern3o/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-8u-UQ7bFpBVMpGhqkVF7R8KFVbKALc6/view?usp=sharing

I installed the board back into the oven and now when the buttons are pushed they make the beep sound, but the display is still black and shows nothing. The oven still not operational. The interior lights work, both by opening the oven's door as well as by pushing the light on button on the pcb. Pushing the start causes a warning beep different from the other beeps as shown in this video:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-8u-UQ7bFpBVMpGhqkVF7R8KFVbKALc6/view?usp=sharing

The following picture shows the operation of the board at the present time:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-8u-UQ7bFpBVMpGhqkVF7R8KFVbKALc6/view?usp=sharing

Can anyone shed light on what could be causing the no display issue?

Here are the pictures from the complete board, component and trace sides as reference:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-8u-UQ7bFpBVMpGhqkVF7R8KFVbKALc6/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-8u-UQ7bFpBVMpGhqkVF7R8KFVbKALc6/view?usp=sharing

Thank you for any help you can provide.
 

bijanelectric

Feb 4, 2021
32
Joined
Feb 4, 2021
Messages
32
The new capacitors are rated 6.3v whereas the one taken out of the board are rated 63v. I mistakenly thought they are both 63v.
Looking at the new caps after installation shows that one of them has been physically damaged as shown in the picture below:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lnoLm-rDHRPyJ-M43wmFC2diQqYwa85s/view?usp=sharing

I plan to get new caps from Mouser or eBay.

Here are pictures of one of the electrolytic capacitors that were removed from the board for identification:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xz2dHpHvM6epgseRth1bbfzefvr8zed_/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1W--II_cpjvRX8ZS7AQO-1R2XxpletKjp/view?usp=sharing

Numbers and letters on the cap are:
NRWA
100 µF 63v -55 +105°
0210
(M)

Found the following for sale but the eBay seller is on vacation (most of eBay sellers of such items seem to be on vacation due to Chinese New Year I think):
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-NEW-PANA...LECTROLYTIC-CAPACITOR-105-C-USA-/313143419271

Found the following in Mouser:
For burnt out ceramic cap C29:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/594-K104K15X7RF53H5G/
For 2 electrolytic caps C34 and C50:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/647-UPS1J101MPD/

Please let me know if the capacitors from Mouser are correct for both applications (C34/C50 and C29).

Thank you.
 

bijanelectric

Feb 4, 2021
32
Joined
Feb 4, 2021
Messages
32
The capacitors were installed on the board today. The oven is now operations but still has one issue as explained near the end of this post, so please let me know how to fix this last problem and then it should be good.

First C34 and C50, then C29 and C30 were installed. C30 pad had come off on one side so had to use a jumper on that side to connect it directly to R21 next to it. There was no need to use a jumper from one terminal of C29 to T77 as there was continuity there already. The new C29 fit well into the crater left by the previous blown capacitor.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UjMpfTdli_ENa12ctdSfgNe9BD1GPEC-/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1wy7WrdMLZKW2JlUZTEIxVJ-wifUZQPdK/view?usp=sharing

The board was then put back into the oven to see if the oven operation is restored and if the black screen starts to work. The oven did not work and the black display remained black so this was not the final fix. working).

A bit of frustration set in at this point, so I checked the value of all the big resistors on the board. I think they are good but did not bother to check the measured value against the value indicated by the bands.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ODQoztH-GUzKajr50K8JxzOZ7cSvk0rC/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_yO0Y2_CGxXilRw1PTsr2fVA2XrcxFBe/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/15soofCSMULvwslb2zMUQrh8myzMiaXpo/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ij0n44bPzhU6-Ktq_oiQpv6OUq_lLsFw/view?usp=sharing

Then the next 2 capacitors were installed on the board, the C54 and C6 which were next to the VFD. Also the suspect solder joints of the VDF and Q28 were retouched with soldering gun.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A3oWH95dfQq_0sfSFRQ6Chu9cxF48vHG/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gKUAAt8hSju6ZNAPaiNoDG7eWQYJeu4v/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1t-c7MQ2nFrI9R6bSL2Q7PrB8ZNI7fsNH/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bJJVo4D_j57rodfErERfn7d3Pm6j8mQB/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NIwDLIogv8Cv-Qj4MTimXzxxdAWy5UqN/view?usp=sharing

This time the display came on and the oven became operational. Later when the values of C54 and C6 were checked C6 was way below its rated capacity as shown below:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1F1nouvS7i3vtHKxUaqULt8Z65-UwVDcC/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1KLVcYz6AsbXd-RhFyuM2Z9QXWbe6n6hO/view?usp=sharing
C6 was rated at 2.2 µF which is 2200 nF but it measured very low about 4 nF. So C6 was likely the cause of black display which then caused no oven operation.

Here are some pictures of the final repair:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1FSeriexN9IP69mmuoBMds1ci_ZqLBJmQ/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bAZy6sV95A66oVwCBlrCBzBNRZSKfXHe/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gKUAAt8hSju6ZNAPaiNoDG7eWQYJeu4v/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1t-c7MQ2nFrI9R6bSL2Q7PrB8ZNI7fsNH/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1bJJVo4D_j57rodfErERfn7d3Pm6j8mQB/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1NIwDLIogv8Cv-Qj4MTimXzxxdAWy5UqN/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/16BJAxs_Sdzv0VCUGacThFmEwSVvulXjd/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1A3oWH95dfQq_0sfSFRQ6Chu9cxF48vHG/view?usp=sharing

There is one other issue with this board and that is the LOWER OFF button does no turn off the lower oven or makes the noise other buttons make. I think this could be due to this button needing cleaning. Here is the front and back of the piece that holds the buttons. Is there a way to clean this button? How can this button be restored? Thank you.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1f-D1DDEZs55z3yatFIOR0OJmQ2AOcDFD/view?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ot8on_w-5c5VRTpmhjwtAYn5RZ95XIPT/view?usp=sharing
 

HarrisF

Feb 1, 2024
4
Joined
Feb 1, 2024
Messages
4
My mom has double Whirlpool oven.
The display conked out a few weeks ago, nothing happened, no power outages, just decided to stop working. A few days later, it decided to work again, that lasted one night, then off again. I researched and removed the board, and I ordered a repair kit off Ebay for around $25 bucks which consisted of an IC and two small capacitors. Strangely, there are no videos or notes on YouTube or of the web about how to repair the actual board.

Let me explain. In the middle of the board is the large glass LCD display, which is soldered on one side only, which self-adhesive mounting pads in the middle underneath the glass. So, curious if anyone has had any experience with this sort of board. The problem is that the IC is mounted under the display, so to unsolder and replace, one has to somehow lift the display out of the way. Has anyone done this? Can you just cut the pads, and bend? Or do you need to completely unsolder all the pins to the display? Also, have folks had more success with Solder Braid or a suction tool?

Thanks!
Harris
 

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kellys_eye

Jun 25, 2010
6,497
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Jun 25, 2010
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The problem is that the IC is mounted under the display,
Sure about that? Which IC is it? There are no ICs under that board as far as I can tell. They'd have to be surface-mount if they were and the replacement part isn't that type.

It's possible to cut the leads of the ICs close to the body of the IC (craft knife) leaving the pins in the board and soldering the new IC to those pins - if you have to.
 

HarrisF

Feb 1, 2024
4
Joined
Feb 1, 2024
Messages
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Sure about that? Which IC is it? There are no ICs under that board as far as I can tell. They'd have to be surface-mount if they were and the replacement part isn't that type.

It's possible to cut the leads of the ICs close to the body of the IC (craft knife) leaving the pins in the board and soldering the new IC to those pins - if you have to.
Yes, I wasn't clear. The IC is on the opposite side of the board. The solder points are under the display assembly. I think that trying to cut pins sounds intriguing, but not sure I'm up to that level of craft!
 

kellys_eye

Jun 25, 2010
6,497
Joined
Jun 25, 2010
Messages
6,497
The display CAN be levered up if you can separate the sticky pad - a sliver of something 'sharp' can be used else just trial and error, hoping the 'error' side of the equation isn't destructive!

Heating the board with a hot air gun often works to loosen the glue too. The board can take a surprising amount of heat without damage. Heat the board on the opposite side from the display whilst applying pressure to lift the display. Even a hot air drier can deliver enough heat for this. Don't go mad with the heat though!
 

HarrisF

Feb 1, 2024
4
Joined
Feb 1, 2024
Messages
4
Thank you! I'll give it a try!

One other issue is that there is a tall stand-off resistor, and the pads are loose. I'll try resoldering them, but a bit worried about them. My plan is to resolder that part, swap out the two capacitors, and test. Hopefully that will work. If not, I'll swap the IC.

On a side note, since I'm visiting my mom, while I have a good soldering station (Found at LIDL for $12, full temp control, etc.. their center aisle has amazing tools, designed in Germany, made in China for the most part, lifetime warranty!), I needed some solder wick.

This took me down the solder wick path, which was surprising. I grew up with the standard "Soder Wick", from Chemtronics, but now there were all sorts of choices. It turns out that most folks still hold the Soder Wick brand as the best and most reliable. I think it used to be fifty cents. No more!
 

HarrisF

Feb 1, 2024
4
Joined
Feb 1, 2024
Messages
4
Update. So, I replaced the two capacitors, resoldered the tall stand off resistor and thought that before I attempted to remove the display and replace the IC that I'd power it up and test, and voila it worked!

I let it run over night, then tested the oven function, light, timer, clock, and all worked as expected. I replaced the board into the plastic mount, and have it running fine. Still not sure what caused the error, the caps don't look bad, not swollen or leaky, but the loose resistor is my guess. Either way, nice to save money on a full board repair, or replacement oven. My only problem is that whomever worked on before lost several screws, so I need to find new ones to properly put the white metal trim and plastic bottom piece on properly. Home Depot here I come!
 
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