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Restoring a Regal Do-Wa-Diddy by fOXX

(*steve*)

¡sǝpodᴉʇuɐ ǝɥʇ ɹɐǝɥd
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Jan 21, 2010
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25,510
Resistors firing?

Do you know what resistors do?
 

tedstruk

Jan 7, 2012
476
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Jan 7, 2012
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476
This is a pic of all the wiring pins and their connectors that I assume are wrong.
It still doesn't work, and I have worked so hard to get it working, I just can't stop until I've got it. The blue wire is Pin A to the treadle. There is no connector on Pin B-PinC which are bridged and I put A Black ground from the 9v-chassis Pin C, and I grounded the output black wire to Pin B. 9v Red wire on Pin D, Pin E is black to the input jack stem-ground, Pin F is the white wire to the input jack tip. The DPDT switch is by my thumb and it is jumper wired to the individual contacts for the switch on the board. As ed suggested I put the jumper from the treadle grounding lug to pin H on the other edge of the board, next to the 5 way switch connections. Hope this pic is better.IMG_20170406_102902566.jpg
 

tedstruk

Jan 7, 2012
476
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Jan 7, 2012
Messages
476
final att
Sir tedstruk . . . . . . . .

Just examine your unit as it is presently wired and tell me what ancillary remoted component you have the wire from PCB stake A going to.
Also, I have need to know . . . .within the expanse of a COSMIC / NATO / CRYPTO / TOP SECRET / EFTO clearance . . . . . what is the wire leaving from PCB stake H being connected to ?
That final info will then let me finish the units schematic, submit here to you, and then you confirm, with you.
ALSO, you will then additionally be seeing the manner of wiring to the DPDT switch, to permit straight guitar bypass through the unit . . . . .sans . . . . . any WAH effect..




73s de Edd

Here is the test schematic on my end.
I think I have everything right which means I probably have something wrong...
I dedicated my treadle variable to PINS A and PIN H, these two pins are bridged on the board. When the circuit is on, (not in standby) four switch pins on the right side of the switch block are "hot". Pins A and H on the upper right corner of the switched block.
I can see the bypass now.
By putting the output on Pin G, the input at Pin F is in true bypass only when the switch is in bypass where the 4 pins on the left side of the switch block are "hot", and the circuit is off.
schupdt2.jpg schupdt2.jpg
 
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