Sir enricosanchez . . . . .
Thanks for the thoroughly entertaining reply.
I thoroughly believe in FUN in mine . . . and others lives . . . . . don't you ?
The one on the left is showing 1V for the end pins and 0.5V for end to middle pins.
Now that you have given me a viewing, that left item is actually being a
Full Wave Bridge rectifier block, its being used for converting AC to DC voltage .
The one on the left is showing 1V for the end pins and 0.5V for end to middle pins.
That seems O.K.
The one on the right is showing 0.0V for all connections.
Looks like your unit is only using one
POWER IGBT transistor
Come in with a soldering iron with its tip oriented such that you do no harm to the two large BROWN capacitors in the proximity.
You can see that the
E . . .emitter and
C . . . collector show, their having good solder drop surround / imbeddings.
Not so . .for the gate . . . so use a rosin flux droplet and add solder to the far sides
G . . . gate lead at the PCB., so as to make it as large as a B-B shot and add solder to the bottom
E . . emitter lead to also enlarge its solder mass.
Now if youwill then individually heat up the Gate and Emitter BB's the conjunct enhanced heat flow into a lead should let you then slip in and use a mini flat blade screwdriver and rotate to lever each of the E and G leads up and totally out of the PCB. That leaves only the Collector in circuit.
Now you can do this further testing . . . .
But, instead of using a diode test mode with your metering, go to its ohms mode and place your meter leads tips together to see how that is being displayed on your meters readout.
Then do a meter test probing between all of the 3 terminal possibilities of the transistor and then Test, the same way again, with the probes polarities reversed.
If you are getting readings of that same "shorted" or a very low ohms reading . . . .der
IGBT . .bin
KAPUT !
If so, we need all of its part numbering on its opposite side.
Also, we need the part numbering on the suspected driver IC at the 5 o' clock position of the central round ferrite toroid.
If I . . . .
ZOOM . . . . your last picture and then look behind me, I can see that it is sandwiched between ZD1 and R20.
While still in OHMS mode, test the ohmmic value being read on the TH2 just above that same ferrite toroid.
THAAAAAAAAASSSSIT . . . . . . . fer now
AN INCURRED ADDENDA . . . .
You say . . . . .
Measuring the resistance of the heating coil *** gives about 0.54 ohms, which I believe is within the correct range.
*** That is being a set of inductive coils that induce VERY strong, ULTRA RAPIDLY changing magnetic fields into the cooking pot propers metallic structure and their resultant molecular friction is creating the units HEAT .
73's de Edd . . . . .
I just did a whole week's worth of cardio after my jumping around and violent arm thrashing upon walking into a spider web.
.