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Scooter Soldering Kit Battery

J

Jim Yanik

Jan 1, 1970
0
It doesn't work - it just burns on as an impenetrable lacquer so you
have to scrape all the strands with a knife blade before you can carry
on and do the job properly with an active flux. If the solder takes on
any of the strands you can't easily scrape them so you then have to
cut the ruined strands off and start all over again!

soldering with an acid flux is OK *IF* you clean ALL the flux off
afterwards. (very iffy...)

Otherwise,the acid eventually eats thru the wire enough that vibration
breaks it.

BTW,some rosin fluxes are more active than others.

I wonder if you first cleaned the wires with Tarn-X,then soldered with
rosin flux,if that would be better?
 
P

Paul aka Sporty

Jan 1, 1970
0
ian field said:
It doesn't work - it just burns on as an impenetrable lacquer so you have
to scrape all the strands with a knife blade before you can carry on and
do the job properly with an active flux. If the solder takes on any of the
strands you can't easily scrape them so you then have to cut the ruined
strands off and start all over again!

Always remember to slide a piece of shrink wrap up the wire BEFORE starting.
That's the 1st step in a clean solder joint, All metal must be clean and
bright, Then flux and heat to temp, Tinning sometimes
makes the job quicker, After feeding solder and getting a smooth flow allow
to cool before moving to avoid a cold solder joint.
 
P

Paul aka Sporty

Jan 1, 1970
0
Jim Yanik said:
soldering with an acid flux is OK *IF* you clean ALL the flux off
afterwards. (very iffy...)

Otherwise,the acid eventually eats thru the wire enough that vibration
breaks it.

BTW,some rosin fluxes are more active than others.

I wonder if you first cleaned the wires with Tarn-X,then soldered with
rosin flux,if that would be better?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net


Capillary action will pull acid up the insulation when heated and down the
road the joint will fail.
 
P

Paul aka Sporty

Jan 1, 1970
0
Jim Yanik said:
soldering with an acid flux is OK *IF* you clean ALL the flux off
afterwards. (very iffy...)

Otherwise,the acid eventually eats thru the wire enough that vibration
breaks it.

BTW,some rosin fluxes are more active than others.

I wonder if you first cleaned the wires with Tarn-X,then soldered with
rosin flux,if that would be better?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net


Capillary action will pull the acid up the insulator when heated and the
joint will fail down the road :(
 
I

ian field

Jan 1, 1970
0
Jim Yanik said:
soldering with an acid flux is OK *IF* you clean ALL the flux off
afterwards. (very iffy...)

Otherwise,the acid eventually eats thru the wire enough that vibration
breaks it.

Over the years I've done hundreds of joints with active flux, usually
replacing damaged connectors with one's salvaged from a scrap loom, I've
never had a repair fail although I do give the joint a quick wipe with a
damp rag before burning on the heat shrink tube.
 
J

Jim Yanik

Jan 1, 1970
0
Capillary action will pull acid up the insulation when heated and down
the road the joint will fail.

that's the "iffy" part....the -complete- cleaning.
 
S

S'mee

Jan 1, 1970
0
On Wed, 11 Feb 2009 21:37:53 -0800 (PST), "S'mee"


|>>         I wanna know if I can hot wire my scooter battery to a regular
|>> 12v/60w soldering iron to do local soldering repairs without going tothe
|>> other fuel/chemical bonding methods for safety ????
|>
|>Why bother? Buy a butane powered soldering iron and be done with it.

        Sounds good, if you plan on burning all the plastic around the
soldering area I'm considering with wind included...pretty messy
sometimes..

Really? Are you SURE about that? 'cause I've been using them since the
early 90's and have never "Burnt the plastic around the soldering
area" over heated some wire that I was working on? Sure, do that with
an electric one also...who hasn't?
        Maybe I'll go rob a crack head for his butane lighter forall the
use I would need it for on this crampy plastic application....

You sure don't know what you are talking about that's for damn sure.
But hey do it the hard way, if that's what you want. I mean what would
I know, just because I've done if for a long damn time.
 
S

S'mee

Jan 1, 1970
0
It doesn't work - it just burns on as an impenetrable lacquer so you haveto
scrape all the strands with a knife blade before you can carry on and do the
job properly with an active flux. If the solder takes on any of the strands
you can't easily scrape them so you then have to cut the ruined strands off
and start all over again!

Only if you slop it on like house paint... a little dab is all it
takes. Yes it takes practice to learn just how much to NOT use. But
what the heck it's fun learning a new skill. IIRC I learned this
building my first Heathkit radio back in...uh, 1976 iirc.
 
?

.

Jan 1, 1970
0
Only if you slop it on like house paint... a little dab is all it
takes. Yes it takes practice to learn just how much to NOT use. But
what the heck it's fun learning a new skill. IIRC I learned this
building my first Heathkit radio back in...uh, 1976 iirc.

OK, so you were a precocious 10 year old kid. Too bad you haven't
matured...
 
P

Paul aka Sporty

Jan 1, 1970
0
soldering with an acid flux is OK *IF* you clean ALL the flux off
afterwards. (very iffy...)

Otherwise,the acid eventually eats thru the wire enough that vibration
breaks it.

BTW,some rosin fluxes are more active than others.

I wonder if you first cleaned the wires with Tarn-X,then soldered with
rosin flux,if that would be better?

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net



Capillary action will pull acid up the insulation when heated and down the
road the joint will fail.

46 years of soldering and still learning new "Tricks".
 
I

ian field

Jan 1, 1970
0
Who Me? said:
I'm sure that tens of millions of technicians and plumbers world wide with
thank you for telling them that what they have been doing successfully for
years really isn't working!!! Bull shit.

At the point where the flux liquefies and begins to boil......but before
it burns to a crisp.....THAT is when you apply the solder......or at least
those of us who know what we are doing do.

You're really good at twisting words aren't you - especially having snipped
all the relevant content that would have shown up your twisted rant.

With cored solder the solder is applied simultaneously with the flux - not
after the flux has burned as you mischievously suggest.

I suggest you try to find a topic you know squat about to criticise!
 
I

ian field

Jan 1, 1970
0
message








It doesn't work - it just burns on as an impenetrable lacquer so you have
to
scrape all the strands with a knife blade before you can carry on and do
the
job properly with an active flux. If the solder takes on any of the
strands
you can't easily scrape them so you then have to cut the ruined strands
off
and start all over again!

Only if you slop it on like house paint... a little dab is all it
takes. Yes it takes practice to learn just how much to NOT use. But
what the heck it's fun learning a new skill. IIRC I learned this
building my first Heathkit radio back in...uh, 1976 iirc.
--
Keith

Well I guess I've been successfully soldering things (in a wide variety of
applications) for a bit longer than you then.

In most cases its as simple as choosing the right flux for the job.
 
W

Who Me?

Jan 1, 1970
0
ian field said:
With cored solder the solder is applied simultaneously with the flux - not
after the flux has burned as you mischievously suggest.

I suggest you try to find a topic you know squat about to criticise!

You are the one that said flux burns.
I am the one that said if you do it RIGHT, it does NOT burn......regardless
of the source, paste or core or flowing in a machine.

Screw you. I have probably done and supervised more solder joints in my 40
year career than you have seen or imagined.
 
S

S'mee

Jan 1, 1970
0
OK, so you were a precocious 10 year old kid. Too bad you haven't
matured...

and yet I'm STILL more mature and intelligent than you. I DO, I don't
need to explain.
 
S

S'mee

Jan 1, 1970
0
Only if you slop it on like house paint... a little dab is all it
takes. Yes it takes practice to learn just how much to NOT use. But
what the heck it's fun learning a new skill. IIRC I learned this
building my first Heathkit radio back in...uh, 1976 iirc.
--
Keith

Well I guess I've been successfully soldering things (in a wide variety of
applications) for a bit longer than you then.

In most cases its as simple as choosing the right flux for the job.-

agreed and acid flux is the WORST thing to use on electrical
applications.
 
R

R. LaCasse

Jan 1, 1970
0
On Thu, 12 Feb 2009 21:56:56 -0800 (PST), "S'mee"

|>>         Maybe I'll go rob a crack head for his butane lighter for all the
|>> use I would need it for on this crampy plastic application....
|>
|>You sure don't know what you are talking about that's for damn sure.
|>But hey do it the hard way, if that's what you want. I mean what would
|>I know, just because I've done if for a long damn time.

What CRACK?????...no shit heh!
 
I

ian field

Jan 1, 1970
0
Only if you slop it on like house paint... a little dab is all it
takes. Yes it takes practice to learn just how much to NOT use. But
what the heck it's fun learning a new skill. IIRC I learned this
building my first Heathkit radio back in...uh, 1976 iirc.
--
Keith

Well I guess I've been successfully soldering things (in a wide variety of
applications) for a bit longer than you then.

In most cases its as simple as choosing the right flux for the job.-

agreed and acid flux is the WORST thing to use on electrical
applications.
 
I

ian field

Jan 1, 1970
0
Michael Kennedy said:
I know many people have told the OP to get a Butane soldering iorn, but I
think the OP may be confused about one is. He probably thinks you mean a
pencil torch, not an actual butane soldering iorn with a tip and all.

The confusion is entirely understandable as many pencil blowtorches come
with a soldering attachment and some butane soldering irons come with a
blowtorch fitting.

The soldering iron kits usually cost more than pencil blowtorches so I'd
hope they work better than the soldering attachment that came with the
pencil blowtorch I have.
 
S

S'mee

Jan 1, 1970
0
The confusion is entirely understandable as many pencil blowtorches come
with a soldering attachment and some butane soldering irons come with a
blowtorch fitting.

The soldering iron kits usually cost more than pencil blowtorches so I'd
hope they work better than the soldering attachment that came with the
pencil blowtorch I have.

I can only offer one data point. I bought an Archer branded butane
soldering iron 20 years ago from Radio Shack. It still works fine, yes
you pay attention to where the exhaust is pointed...but like soldering
it is just a matter of paying attention to what is going on. <shrug> I
dunno, people have told me they don't work well but I just keep using
it and turning out decent work for what I do.

I am certain there are better ones available now.
 
S

S'mee

Jan 1, 1970
0
agreed and acid flux is the WORST thing to use on electrical
applications.

Okay, I just go by what I was taught by a radio station engineer in
the 70's. He'd been doing it since the late 50's.
 
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