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Should this halogen bulb work off a 24 volt socket?

H

HiC

Jan 1, 1970
0
A 10 watt lamp is not going to like the much higher
transfomer output, any transformer, not loaded with
150 watts will output quite some more than 24 volts.
(if the loaded voltage at 150W is 24.2)

It's a a 20 watt bulb I'm looking to power. Might go higher if I don't find
the light bright enough. Don't know if that makes a difference.
 
default said:
Here in the states, most cars use 12 volts. I've seen some indication
that 42 volts may be in the offing in future cars. There are still a
few 6 volt systems around in vehicles.

We do have some 24 VAC equipment; it is a popular "control" voltage
for relays, valves, HVAC control circuits, etc.. and some lighting . .
. like "landscape","accent" and pathway lights.

He's talking about reducing the power used dramatically - so he will
have close to 24 volts under load - assuming I'm following all this
correctly.

No cars run on 12v, theyre 13-15v systems called 12v for historical
reasons. 24v nominal or 28-29v real is standard voltage for truck
electrical systems, which is what nearly all 24v bulbs are for, hence
theyre really 28v bulbs.

I thought 24v was the off load supply voltage... but I accept its not
100% clear.


NT
 
R

Richard Henry

Jan 1, 1970
0
HiC said:
Actually there's a specific reason to use a lower wattage mini-bulb. I need
a less powerful lamp to project a useable image through a diffuser and
condenser lens and bounce it into the camera with a front surface mirror.
Normal projector lamps are too bright.

How about a neutral grey filter?

I was origianlly going to write a warning about testing the new bulb
arrangement before using it on unreplaceable film, to check for melting
or scorching of the film. However, if you are going to a lower power
bulb, and it survives, you shouldn't have that problem.

Another worry: Are you planning to stop the film at each frame to
capture the image? If so, beware of overheating the film. In normal
use, each frame of the film spends a short time stopped for
projection(1/24 second, is that right?) and is only illuminated for a
portion of that time.
 
H

Homer J Simpson

Jan 1, 1970
0
How about a neutral grey filter?

I was origianlly going to write a warning about testing the new bulb
arrangement before using it on unreplaceable film, to check for melting
or scorching of the film. However, if you are going to a lower power
bulb, and it survives, you shouldn't have that problem.

Another worry: Are you planning to stop the film at each frame to
capture the image? If so, beware of overheating the film. In normal
use, each frame of the film spends a short time stopped for
projection(1/24 second, is that right?) and is only illuminated for a
portion of that time.

Some projectors dropped in a metal shield with small holes punched in it for
still frame projection.
 
D

David Nebenzahl

Jan 1, 1970
0
Homer J Simpson spake thus:
Some projectors dropped in a metal shield with small holes punched in it for
still frame projection.

My old Hell & Bowel Filmosound has a neat little fail-safe "trap door"
shield like that; a little perforated aluminum screen that's blown aloft
by the fan so it's normally out of the way. If the fan ever fails for
some reason, the screen drops into the light path.


--
"In 1964 Barry Goldwater declared: 'Elect me president, and I
will bomb the cities of Vietnam, defoliate the jungles, herd the
population into concentration camps and turn the country into a
wasteland.' But Lyndon Johnson said: 'No! No! No! Don't you dare do
that. Let ME do it.'"

- Characterization (paraphrased) of the 1964 Goldwater/Johnson
presidential race by Professor Irwin Corey, "The World's Foremost
Authority."
 
J

James Sweet

Jan 1, 1970
0
Aircraft use 28V but I've never seen a 24V car, they're all 12V aside
from very old 6V cars.
 
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