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Siemens Induction cook top fault

Stray

Dec 30, 2015
1
Joined
Dec 30, 2015
Messages
1
Hi,

I got a Siemens EH777501EX/01 Induction Cook Top.
The other day, the right side stopped working. It turns on, but the activation magnet doesn't seem to work.
After opening it up, I say that the right side pcb, Cerler ELIN-DCHA ADV VC26, had a burned "square".
What type of component is this? A fuse? I can't find any information about the pcb online. If it's just a bridge I can strap it.

The working left side pcb, Cerler ELIN-IZDA ADV v26 shown for reference.

Thanks,
Fredrik

20151230_183127.jpg 20151230_183059.jpg
 

Gryd3

Jun 25, 2014
4,098
Joined
Jun 25, 2014
Messages
4,098
Hi,

I got a Siemens EH777501EX/01 Induction Cook Top.
The other day, the right side stopped working. It turns on, but the activation magnet doesn't seem to work.
After opening it up, I say that the right side pcb, Cerler ELIN-DCHA ADV VC26, had a burned "square".
What type of component is this? A fuse? I can't find any information about the pcb online. If it's just a bridge I can strap it.

The working left side pcb, Cerler ELIN-IZDA ADV v26 shown for reference.

Thanks,
Fredrik

View attachment 24105 View attachment 24106
Whatever it was failed spectacularly.
Additionally, the currents involved may prove to be a little difficult to work with, and bypassing components could lead to much more costly damages elsewhere.

Perhaps one of the other guys can suggest what the component used to be.
 

davenn

Moderator
Sep 5, 2009
14,011
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Sep 5, 2009
Messages
14,011
HI and welcome to EP :)

definitely looks like a fusible link
and since it has blown so, as gryd3 said, spectacularly, you should be looking for a fault past that point that caused the excess current to flow and blow the link

Dave
 

Tha fios agaibh

Aug 11, 2014
2,239
Joined
Aug 11, 2014
Messages
2,239
I don't know what caused this spectacular (thanks Gryd3) fault, but often moisture gets in from pots boiling over on the stovetop and fries the board.
The second carbon mark above it in the first picture looks strange.
Would bridging with a small path of solder be enough to suffice, or better to replicate the original link with the same size and material? (That is, after the fault is determined)
 
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