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Sir Peter Goodchild . . . . . . .
I wouldn't even think about using the compressed tube/sleeves procedure.
I have had luck with both types of wiring, both your spiral conductor which you are now showing and those on small earpieces that just use single strands of ~ #30 copper wire .
I initially lightly bind the two wires together with multi turns of sewing thread. Cut any wound wires excess white "fluff" insulation away with use of fingernail clippers.
Connector:
There is the left long connector for common ground and the two terminals for the right and left channels, they are usually being splayed outwardly too far.
So, I bend them inwardly such that they are being aligned parallel to the ground connector. That way the shell that covers them will slip right on without dragging against them.
NOTE:
On your unit, looks like you will be needing a new male connector, as your THREADS seem to be so excessively deformed, so as to not permit the cover shell to screw on.
UNLESS . . .you "GET LUCKY", by possibly using a knife blades pressure to restore the presently deformed threading.
BTW . . . . you ALWAYS want to get that cover shell over the wires FIRST, and then pushed back out of the way, while working on the wiring repairs.
I start with just a bit more right (RED) channel and left(GREEN) channel wire length than I will need.
Using your photo, I would clip off the wires to just eliminate the white fluff and also the fluff strands down at the bottom, between the wires.
With a drop of liquid Rosin flux applied to the bare copper spiral, and use of rosin fluxed wire solder, it should make a tinned spot when a WELL TINNED soldering iron tip is applied.
Move over to the red insulated spiral and use a #11 Exacto blade-Surgical scalpel- SHARP knife or razor blade and lightly scrape a bare copper spot.
Follow up using the same soldering procedure, to get a solder tinned spot on the second wire.
Then you prep up the points to be soldered to on the male plug.
You need to pre tin 3 solder areas, all being facing to the inward direction of the plug.
The first will be the hole area of the inside of the ground terminal /shell.
Then the inside holes of the tip and ring contacts.
Get in and out in a hurry on that soldering, as those plugs don't take overheating well , an immediate wet sponge or wet Q-tip for cooling is a safety/ precautionary boon.
Cut off the saw tooth/barb areas of the ground terminal strip, that normally would be wrapped around the whole cable(s) and crimped. Then file off any side roughness that might possibly nick the thread over wrap to be used later for binding the two cables to it.
Take the pretinned grounds of both cables and reflow solder them to that already pretinned area of the inner ground terminal /shell.
Then reflow solder each of the micro tinned R and L channel wires to the insides of the connector tabs.
(The tip connection is LEFT channel and the ring is RIGHT channel connection . . .ILLUSTRATION )
Any slight misjudgment of R and L wires extra length can be taken up by an internal U bend of the wires.
A further sewing thread over wrap of the already slightly pre overwrapped wire pair protects the wiring from any external pulling action.
A drop of model airplane cement or silicone on each connection provides further mechanical rigidity of the repair.
That is how I have successfully repaired some of my units in the past.
73's de Edd
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