Maker Pro
Maker Pro

Sony WEGA Casing Repair

A

Alex

Jan 1, 1970
0
I have a Sony Wega 36FS100 and I have a 0.5"x0.5" puncture in the right
speaker casing. Really the only issue here is an eyesore, it looks like the
plastic was cracked and pushed in.

Question is, has anyone gotten to the point where they can remove this
speaker grill from the tv unit itself, how much is involved. Its just out
of warrantee so i would rather not take it to sony depot, but I just need to
remove the casing off the TV to be able to access it from the back and push
it back and glue it or something. Anyone have experience in taking one of
these suckers apart?

Alex
 
J

Jerry G.

Jan 1, 1970
0
Over an email, it is hard to do an accurate evaluation from your
description.

If you are not used to TV service, I would not suggest this. You will have
to remove the chassis assembly, and there are a lot of connectors, harnesses
and etc that will have to be disconnected, and re-connected. There are also
some safety issues with this venture.

There is also the chance you may accidentally disturb something, and if so,
the repair will be much more costly than having a service tech who is used
to doing this type of work to do it for you. This may only cost an hour of
labour to fix. There is also the possibility, you may need a new part. In
this case, one will have to be ordered from Sony.

--

Jerry G.
=====


I have a Sony Wega 36FS100 and I have a 0.5"x0.5" puncture in the right
speaker casing. Really the only issue here is an eyesore, it looks like the
plastic was cracked and pushed in.

Question is, has anyone gotten to the point where they can remove this
speaker grill from the tv unit itself, how much is involved. Its just out
of warrantee so i would rather not take it to sony depot, but I just need to
remove the casing off the TV to be able to access it from the back and push
it back and glue it or something. Anyone have experience in taking one of
these suckers apart?

Alex
 
A

Art

Jan 1, 1970
0
It may require removal of the crt also, not a do-it-yourself project.
 
S

Steve Kraus

Jan 1, 1970
0
The fact that you call yourself a techie and didn't seem to realize to size
your photo for practical viewing on typical monitors gives me pause.

Why not just hook the pushed in area and pull it back til flush with the
rest? It wouldn't be perfect but far less disturbing than it is and would
avoid a lot of fuss.
 
A

andrew

Jan 1, 1970
0
Alex,

provided you are carefull should be no reason why you cannot try to
fix this safely yourself. Assumming that you can't pull the bamaged
plastic out with a paper clip we can talk you through it.

Best put the unit face down (don't scratch the glass). You'll need to
remove the back casing. unplug it and wait a while for all the big
capacitors to discharge. Undo all the screws and gently lift the back
casing straight up. Be carefull of a) they put a sticky tape around
one edge that may cause the casing to jeck off suddenly b) the power
cord will get in your way. Be very careful not to bump the inside of
the tube.

Some basic precautions (sorry if you are and experienced techie).
- stay away from the fat red wire (high redisidual charge)
- make sure that nothing can knock the end of the tube or the
attached board (risk of tube breakage)
- make sure that nothing can knock the yoke (coils) around the tube
(critical picture alignment)
- don't knock any of the small magnets on the back of the tube
- dont touch any of the boards if you can help it (electrostaic damge
risk to boards, plus shock risk if you touch the power supply caps
(big fat ones). hopefully they discharged by now, but you never know.

The speakers are on either side of the tube and simply unscrew and can
be lifted out. Absolutely no need to remove the tube or anything
complicated as has been suggested by other posters.

Putting the back casing on requires careful attention and you will
need to be carefull that you don't drop it on anything. The bottom
board will need to be moved around until the back casing slides on
easily. The Power cable has a small plastic lug that has to slot into
place before the case will close.

Good luck!!
 
A

ANDREW

Jan 1, 1970
0
Alex,

provided you are carefull should be no reason why you cannot try to
fix this safely yourself. Assumming that you can't pull the bamaged
plastic out with a paper clip we can talk you through it.

Best put the unit face down (don't scratch the glass). You'll need to
remove the back casing. unplug it and wait a while for all the big
capacitors to discharge. Undo all the screws and gently lift the back
casing straight up. Be carefull of a) they put a sticky tape around
one edge that may cause the casing to jeck off suddenly b) the power
cord will get in your way. Be very careful not to bump the inside of
the tube.

Some basic precautions (sorry if you are and experienced techie).
- stay away from the fat red wire (high redisidual charge)
- make sure that nothing can knock the end of the tube or the
attached board (risk of tube breakage)
- make sure that nothing can knock the yoke (coils) around the tube
(critical picture alignment)
- don't knock any of the small magnets on the back of the tube
- dont touch any of the boards if you can help it (electrostaic damge
risk to boards, plus shock risk if you touch the power supply caps
(big fat ones). hopefully they discharged by now, but you never know.

The speakers are on either side of the tube and simply unscrew and can
be lifted out. Absolutely no need to remove the tube or anything
complicated as has been suggested by other posters.

Putting the back casing on requires careful attention and you will
need to be carefull that you don't drop it on anything. The bottom
board will need to be moved around until the back casing slides on
easily. The Power cable has a small plastic lug that has to slot into
place before the case will close.

Be carefull,
Good luck!!
 
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